'89 Carrera Engine Drop
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'89 Carrera Engine Drop
Greetings,
I need to drop the engine on my '89 Carrera to get at some oil leaks (thermostat, etc.) I tried from the top, but there's just too much junk there. I've read the articles, but most refer to an SC. So my question is, is there any difference between the two (except the obvious fuel injection changes) that I need to be aware of? Any other tricks? Maybe a partial drop?
Thanks, Greg
I need to drop the engine on my '89 Carrera to get at some oil leaks (thermostat, etc.) I tried from the top, but there's just too much junk there. I've read the articles, but most refer to an SC. So my question is, is there any difference between the two (except the obvious fuel injection changes) that I need to be aware of? Any other tricks? Maybe a partial drop?
Thanks, Greg
#2
I haddah Google dat
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Hi Greg,
You don't need to drop the engine to fix oil leaks on an 3.2 911.
All you have to do is remove the airbox, and the air flow meter (AFM). Carefully clean around the thermostat until there is NO DIRT, then remove it. You may need to start with scraping if there is a lot of buildup. Finish with rubbing alcohol and paper towels before removing the thermostat. If it's stuck then believe me, the fastest way to get it out is with a little right angle screwdriver that you can buy at Orchard Supply Hardware.
You should also change the oil pressure warning light sender. (The red thing in the picture)
Buy the green thermostat o-ring not the red one.
Other common sources of oil leaks are the crankcase breather hoses, so check them for cracks.
All you need is a bright flashlight, and turn your head sideways while you stick it up into the engine compartment. You can turn your head slightly down, and you'll see the thermostat. No luck for guys with really big heads I guess.
You don't need to drop the engine to fix oil leaks on an 3.2 911.
All you have to do is remove the airbox, and the air flow meter (AFM). Carefully clean around the thermostat until there is NO DIRT, then remove it. You may need to start with scraping if there is a lot of buildup. Finish with rubbing alcohol and paper towels before removing the thermostat. If it's stuck then believe me, the fastest way to get it out is with a little right angle screwdriver that you can buy at Orchard Supply Hardware.
You should also change the oil pressure warning light sender. (The red thing in the picture)
Buy the green thermostat o-ring not the red one.
Other common sources of oil leaks are the crankcase breather hoses, so check them for cracks.
All you need is a bright flashlight, and turn your head sideways while you stick it up into the engine compartment. You can turn your head slightly down, and you'll see the thermostat. No luck for guys with really big heads I guess.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:17 AM.
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#5
I haddah Google dat
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hahahahaha!!!!
Cal you are too funny. No, that is an engine pic from another guy at Pelican's discussion forum.
I added the note with Photoshop, telling him to be carefull when he pulls his thermostat.
My part is the thermostat in the shiny pic with the right angle screwdriver.
Cal you are too funny. No, that is an engine pic from another guy at Pelican's discussion forum.
I added the note with Photoshop, telling him to be carefull when he pulls his thermostat.
My part is the thermostat in the shiny pic with the right angle screwdriver.
#6
Burning Brakes
rusnak,
What's the difference on the thermostat? I too have leaks in this area and my mechanic replaced these rings this week and mentioned the PO had used the wrong ones. I wonder if he used the red rather than the green. Can you elaborate? I pick up my car tomorrow after this maintenance.
I believe he did it with a partial drop.
You should also change the oil pressure warning light sender. (The red thing in the picture)
Buy the green thermostat o-ring not the red one.
Buy the green thermostat o-ring not the red one.
I believe he did it with a partial drop.
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Rusnak,
I actually already replaced the thermostat O-ring and oil pressure sensor once. I removed everything possible in the area that had a nut and bolt and still had to work by "feel", using a universal joint socket extension - lots of banged-up knuckles. I couldn't see anything either - big head, I guess. I just have this sense that maybe I pinched an O-ring or the leak is coming from somewhere else? Hence the reason for thinking about dropping the engine.
Thanks, Greg
I actually already replaced the thermostat O-ring and oil pressure sensor once. I removed everything possible in the area that had a nut and bolt and still had to work by "feel", using a universal joint socket extension - lots of banged-up knuckles. I couldn't see anything either - big head, I guess. I just have this sense that maybe I pinched an O-ring or the leak is coming from somewhere else? Hence the reason for thinking about dropping the engine.
Thanks, Greg
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#8
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Greg,
It is significantly more work, and much more work is done in tight confines, if you do an engine drop. I have different socket sets of different sizes, and I used my 1/4" drive socket wrench on the thermostat nuts. I'd say this is one of the easier jobs that you can do on a 3.2 911. I can get mine done in a little over a half hour, not including the time spent doing clean up on the top of the motor. You can buy an extending inspection mirror at Kragen Auto. They have a little tiny one, and a larger one. You want the larger one with the orange handle. Or borrow the wife's bathroom mirror. Look down on the top of the motor, and clean it with some paper towels and electric parts cleaning spray.
If you have oil dripping onto the cross exhaust pipe, then it's either the thermostat or the oil press sender, or both. You might have oil leaking from the crankcase ventilation tubes. But these leak a lot less oil. You can see everything with a mirror and a flashlight. Dropping the motor may not reveal anything, just a dirty motor. Start with a clean motor, then run the motor and go back and take another look. See if you can find fresh oil.
Jorge,
The red ones will dry up and leak a lot faster than the green ones. I don't know why. The green ones have a rounded cross section, and seem to seal better. The red ones are a looser fit, and have a more squared profile.
It is significantly more work, and much more work is done in tight confines, if you do an engine drop. I have different socket sets of different sizes, and I used my 1/4" drive socket wrench on the thermostat nuts. I'd say this is one of the easier jobs that you can do on a 3.2 911. I can get mine done in a little over a half hour, not including the time spent doing clean up on the top of the motor. You can buy an extending inspection mirror at Kragen Auto. They have a little tiny one, and a larger one. You want the larger one with the orange handle. Or borrow the wife's bathroom mirror. Look down on the top of the motor, and clean it with some paper towels and electric parts cleaning spray.
If you have oil dripping onto the cross exhaust pipe, then it's either the thermostat or the oil press sender, or both. You might have oil leaking from the crankcase ventilation tubes. But these leak a lot less oil. You can see everything with a mirror and a flashlight. Dropping the motor may not reveal anything, just a dirty motor. Start with a clean motor, then run the motor and go back and take another look. See if you can find fresh oil.
Jorge,
The red ones will dry up and leak a lot faster than the green ones. I don't know why. The green ones have a rounded cross section, and seem to seal better. The red ones are a looser fit, and have a more squared profile.
#9
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I thought of one more helpful tip that I can pass on:
If you are running a stock airbox, and stock AC, then the bottom airbox clip can be hard to attach.
Remove the AC compressor mounting bolts, and place the compressor on top of the engine intake. You don't have to hang it off of the rear fender, just move it to the left and up on top of the intake. Now you can get your arm back there where the AC output hose was. Easy to attach that lower airbox clip. It takes maybe 15 mins to do this and re-install the AC belt.
If you are running a stock airbox, and stock AC, then the bottom airbox clip can be hard to attach.
Remove the AC compressor mounting bolts, and place the compressor on top of the engine intake. You don't have to hang it off of the rear fender, just move it to the left and up on top of the intake. Now you can get your arm back there where the AC output hose was. Easy to attach that lower airbox clip. It takes maybe 15 mins to do this and re-install the AC belt.
#11
If you do decide to drop it here is a link someone posted a while back.
http://www.heinys.com/enginedrop/index.html
http://www.heinys.com/enginedrop/index.html
#13
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No need to drop it for that......did it on my 89.
Yeap, you can run a bit "blind"...but with proper light, mirror and removal of "stuff",..pretty easily done...clean up the area REAL good before you go in there.
Best,
Doyle
Yeap, you can run a bit "blind"...but with proper light, mirror and removal of "stuff",..pretty easily done...clean up the area REAL good before you go in there.
Best,
Doyle
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Okay - I've been duly talked into leaving the engine in the chassis and reaching in there again. Is there anything else in there that may be leaking?
Thanks, Greg
Thanks, Greg
#15
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Greg, run your hand along the rubber crankcase breather hoses. Look for cracks. Also make sure that the hose to the airbox is connected. If it's a really big leak, and it's dripping on to the cross pipe, then it's the oil press sender or thermostat or breather gasket.
Most likely it's one of these or one of the hoses.
Most likely it's one of these or one of the hoses.