hanzonn

Thanks everyone - I'll let you know how it all goes in a week or so.

dshepp806

You may want to just clean it up real nice,..then look later at the footprint of the leak....more clearly ID what you may deem suspicious.... before removing stuff....on the other hand.......I went ahead and addressed all of the things once in there...oil pressure warning light sender, thermostat O-ring (Viton) and intake gasket.


Done.

Doyle

theiceman

yeah that's the dreaded triangle of death , Dooable on a Carrera ... not on your life on an SC.

Ed Hughes

I'm of the FIRM belief you're getting bad advice. I can almost guarantee, if your engine has not been out, you'll find plenty to do if you drop it, and your life will be easier than if it is in situ as you work thru your known issues.

WTF is so hard about dropping the engine and doing it right? It should almost be considered a rite of passage to do this.

Again, assuming it hasn't been out in the last few years or ever, what is so wrong with spending a 1/2 day (at most) dropping the engine, then a weekend or two inspecting, cleaning and repairing? Do it right, do it once.

theiceman

I have to agree with Ed here. Although I do understand the intimidation involved with dropping an engine. I suggest getting a budy over who has done it before on a 911 if you can find one. I have never personally taken my own out but i have helped other guys take theres out.

The reaction is ALWAYS the same. " gees if i had known it was this ieasy I would have done it years ago.

rusnak

I still have the post traumatic stress disorder from dropping and re-installing the 911SC engine from hell last year. So, I don't like doing engine drops anymore. On the bright side, I did the triangle of death thing in about a half an hour. Hanzonn, if you are ever in Central Calif, I'll meet you and change your sender and thermosta o-ring for you, and you won't even have to buy me a beer. Seriously, it is easy. Just remove the air flow meter (the square box thing with the barn door inside).

hanzonn

Ed, Iceman,

I don't disagree - at some point I'll drop the engine when I need to put in a cluctch & do some major work. I actually would like to someday. If I had the time, I'd do it now, but I wanna'drive it!

Anyway, I removed "parts" and took a look at the front area of the engine. Good news - no oil around the oil thermostat or oil pressure warning light! I guess I did it right the first time. I reassembled, started & let it warm up. Looked underneath & saw an intermittent drip coming from right above the starboard heat exchanger - looks like the junction between the oil cooler & crankcase. Is this a common - and accessible - area to get to? I'd post pics of the oil leak, but I can't figure out how to do it. The icon 'insert image' icon asks for a URL & I have them on my hard drive.

Also noticed my sunroof won't open (seems to be stuck on the right side), the headlights are on hi-beam continuously unless I pull back on the turn signal.

My stomach feel like I ate pistachios...

Thanks, Greg

Ed Hughes

The oil cooler is sealed to the case via some seals that look like odd-sized hose washers. Mine leaked here a few years back. Coolers also can develop leaks. One of the good while-you're-in-there tasks is to take the cooler off, have it cleaned and pressure tested. I think I spent $120 to do mine, and it looked brand new when I got it back.

PS- You're making my case....

rusnak

yeah, the oil cooler is one of those things that is easier to take off when the engine is out. It can be done with the engine in, but it's not easy. I don't imagine you would have just gone ahead and changed those o-rings for the fun of it otherwise though. Give it a week or two, maybe the seals will move enough with heat cycling to re-seal themselves (one can hope right)?

The sunroof is most likely a broken cable. Those are easy, but the replacement is a 993 part, and you have to grind part of the pin away before installing.

The high beam is the switch. You might get by with bending the contacts. In the meanwhile if you don't need to use high beam then you can ziptie a cut off piece of a bamboo chopstick from chinese takeout (that is what I did haha), that will hold the turn signal stalk back so it doesn't go into high beam each time you make a turn. Replacement of the switch is a pita. When you do it, be very careful that you don't break off the ears for the hazzard switch.

theiceman

If the oil is leaking on to the collector areas of the heat exchanger ( the area where the three pipes come together ) _ be very carefull. I have never seen it but i have heard of 911BBQs because of this. I would suggest just keping an eye on it. I have a leak on to my exchanger to , not a big one and not in that area. Can't justify pulling engine out for a couple of drops ... yet ...

rusnak

I can say that when I first run the 911s in the spring, after storing them all winter, they leak more than at the end of summer/fall. Leaking is normal if the car hasn't been run for a while. It's when the leaks get bad that you have to do something. I should also add that I clean the underside of the 911s regularly with a pressure washer.

dshepp806

Just fix what you can get to without en engine drop,..top stuff,..can be done,...oil cooler (as Ice mentioned) can drop with engine in place (done it, to replace the O-rings). You've now checked several key areas , replacing parts,..without dropping the engine (just yet)...much less time,..and a whole lot less headache (for now) and $$$$$. Phase "one" seems practical...no?

Can't emphasize cleanliness enough...if you've a mess up top,..be damned sure to get EVERYTHING cleaned well before removal of anything.

Mirrors and bright lites.....take off whatever you need...doable.

When I did mine, I made discovery of a a broken stud at the thermostat,.....really pissed me off,..cause now, that needs fixing WHEN the engine's down....still no leaks (not a lot pressure up there) with a fresh Viton seal......watch your torque values,..I would imagine some gorrila (in my case) overtightened the nut on the thermostat.

FIRST, inspect (as suggested) all hoses,..while you're in there. I went ahead and installed all smaller rubber hoses (some longer ones), assuming the originals to be there,..to inlcude the oil hoses headed to the tank......

..a productive day (with no engine drop).

But: Ed's right,..it's a "Rite of Passage",..with many revealing "things"...

Best,

Doyle

just rambling,.....

hanzonn

Ordered the oil cooler seals from Pelican parts. Next week, I'll install them. Any idea how much oil I need to drain (and from where)? The oil in there now is fresh... or maybe I should just change it anyway.

Rusnak - I'd gladly buy you a beer; unfortunately, I don't have plans to visit Fresno soon.

Ed Hughes

I just noticed you're in SD. When you do get ready to drop, let me know and I'll be glad to help.

hanzonn

Ed,

I'd like to take you up on your offer - I sent you an email.

Thanks, Greg