84-86 Fuel Pressure Regulator Guage
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you guys crack me up, if your hose fits over the threads on the rail, put it on there and put a hose clamp on it. The ball seals the port with pressure from the cap. Flare fittings seal on the flare unlike npt.
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Thanks Doug!
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I couldn't hear a sound this time on the car, so again you are right. I have a new ICV so it didn't even make a sound.
So, when you remove the cap on the test port the ball may fall out???
I haddah Google dat
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I'm not sure that I'm following this convo right now, but to be honest the ball just prevents fuel from leaking after you tighten the cap. Do not overtighten the cap! BAll will jam in there and be friggen hard to get out.
Anyways, the CIS fuel tester is the one that is hard to find. Here's what I used, it's an amalgam of fittings from a construction supply place, and an EL CHEAPO gauge from Harbor Freight. The system pressure is pretty low on these 3.2 911s.
Anyways, the CIS fuel tester is the one that is hard to find. Here's what I used, it's an amalgam of fittings from a construction supply place, and an EL CHEAPO gauge from Harbor Freight. The system pressure is pretty low on these 3.2 911s.
Last edited by rusnak; Mar 5, 2010 at 12:19 AM.
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So order of things to test is my Fuel Pump then Regulator, Correct?
I haddah Google dat
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Jim, I had to do several tests on mine. I overtightened the cap and the ball did not just pop out, but yes it is like a big ol BB and it is supposed to be loose.
You need to jumper the dme relay socket to do the test, so you need a fuse holder and fuse, etc. as per Bentley. Oh if the FPR is bad you might have to drop the engine to get it out and the new one back in. It's a PITA.
You need to jumper the dme relay socket to do the test, so you need a fuse holder and fuse, etc. as per Bentley. Oh if the FPR is bad you might have to drop the engine to get it out and the new one back in. It's a PITA.
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Would I need to hook up a pressure relieve valve too 
I'm not sure that I'm following this convo right now, but to be honest the ball just prevents fuel from leaking after you tighten the cap. Do not overtighten the cap! BAll will jam in there and be friggen hard to get out.
Anyways, the CIS fuel tester is the one that is hard to find. Here's what I used, it's an amalgam of fittings from a construction supply place, and an EL CHEAPO gauge from Harbor Freight. The system pressure is pretty low on these 3.2 911s.
Anyways, the CIS fuel tester is the one that is hard to find. Here's what I used, it's an amalgam of fittings from a construction supply place, and an EL CHEAPO gauge from Harbor Freight. The system pressure is pretty low on these 3.2 911s.
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Thanks Rusnak!Yeah, it is pretty tight in there when I had to disconnect it to install the new refurbed Buick Injectors. But I got ot it so I might be OK.
Question, the Bentley Manual is not clear on this but.
Once I have the Guage hooked up, then test the jumpered Fuel Pump to see what PSI, is that correct?
over,
I haddah Google dat
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That's what I did. I let it run for a while to let the pressure normalize, IIRC.
I don't think you need a pressure relief valve, but it's handy if you are testing it several times like I did on mine.
You mean you changed your fpr with the engine in the car? dude....^5.
I'm really curious about your new injectors. They have a little trumpet flare that is supposed t be a better heat sink. Can you do an evaluation on them later?
I don't think you need a pressure relief valve, but it's handy if you are testing it several times like I did on mine.
You mean you changed your fpr with the engine in the car? dude....^5.
I'm really curious about your new injectors. They have a little trumpet flare that is supposed t be a better heat sink. Can you do an evaluation on them later?
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Thanks, I think I got the steps after reading the Bentley again.
Yeap, all injectors in the car, it only took one hour. The old injectors needed to be pryed out and the new ones sat right in. Almost too loose but no leaks
I certainly will post a right up on the injectors. But I think I may have screwed up the evaluation because I installed NGK Iridiums so I may be gettting benefits of both installs.
The Idle seemed much smoother and less rich, quick Throttle Response but I think my pressure is off because I replaced every electronic component twice, AFM, DME and so on with known good ones and the last thing/s are the fuel pump and regulator. I suspect the pressure because she still runs too rich but better than prior to changing out the Fuel Injectors and the NGK's. She use to trickle down to 750 RPMs via the O2 Sensor because she was running rich at idle only. But now she will not drop below 800RPMs infrequently. Soon as I go up to speed then stop she would be fine or if I rev the throttle she normalizes to 880RPMs. Only on a occassion she would trickle down. Absolutley no Hunting.
Since the swap out and leaning her out to the maximum before dropping the AFM screw she no-longer stalls when cold or dip in idle when I turn on the AC.
Sorry for the long reply, I hope I made sense
Yeap, all injectors in the car, it only took one hour. The old injectors needed to be pryed out and the new ones sat right in. Almost too loose but no leaks
I certainly will post a right up on the injectors. But I think I may have screwed up the evaluation because I installed NGK Iridiums so I may be gettting benefits of both installs.
The Idle seemed much smoother and less rich, quick Throttle Response but I think my pressure is off because I replaced every electronic component twice, AFM, DME and so on with known good ones and the last thing/s are the fuel pump and regulator. I suspect the pressure because she still runs too rich but better than prior to changing out the Fuel Injectors and the NGK's. She use to trickle down to 750 RPMs via the O2 Sensor because she was running rich at idle only. But now she will not drop below 800RPMs infrequently. Soon as I go up to speed then stop she would be fine or if I rev the throttle she normalizes to 880RPMs. Only on a occassion she would trickle down. Absolutley no Hunting.
Since the swap out and leaning her out to the maximum before dropping the AFM screw she no-longer stalls when cold or dip in idle when I turn on the AC.
Sorry for the long reply, I hope I made sense
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I haddah Google dat
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Draco,
I don't know why it took me so long to remember this, but if your fuel pressure is off, more likely to be the fpr.
You can test is by installing a fuel line with a cutoff valve in the between the fuel fpr and the return line going back to the fuel tank. If the pressure is too low, then gradually cut off the valve while watching the gauge and running the fuel pump. The pressure should jump. If it does not, then your fuel pump could be bad. You don't want to pinch off your stock fuel hose because you can damage it. If the pressure is too high, then the return line probably has something wrong with it.
You can get the fittings at either Napa Auto or at a racer's supply place that sells fuel lines. These places usually cater to the short track guys, go carts, and stuff. They usually sell helmets and stuff, to give you an idea of where to look.
I don't know why it took me so long to remember this, but if your fuel pressure is off, more likely to be the fpr.
You can test is by installing a fuel line with a cutoff valve in the between the fuel fpr and the return line going back to the fuel tank. If the pressure is too low, then gradually cut off the valve while watching the gauge and running the fuel pump. The pressure should jump. If it does not, then your fuel pump could be bad. You don't want to pinch off your stock fuel hose because you can damage it. If the pressure is too high, then the return line probably has something wrong with it.
You can get the fittings at either Napa Auto or at a racer's supply place that sells fuel lines. These places usually cater to the short track guys, go carts, and stuff. They usually sell helmets and stuff, to give you an idea of where to look.
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Hey Rusnak,
Yeah I am hoping it is the FPR, because the Fuel Pump is under my stone guard, I hate taking off my stone guard. Last time I did that I was stuck under there for 3 hours trying to figure it out until I saw Steve Alarcon, Johnson Alignment do it at his shop then I kicked myself in the ****. So easy just lift from the suspension arms, duh.
BTW, do you have a pic or diagram where I should place that cut off valve?
TIA,
Jim
Yeah I am hoping it is the FPR, because the Fuel Pump is under my stone guard, I hate taking off my stone guard. Last time I did that I was stuck under there for 3 hours trying to figure it out until I saw Steve Alarcon, Johnson Alignment do it at his shop then I kicked myself in the ****. So easy just lift from the suspension arms, duh.
BTW, do you have a pic or diagram where I should place that cut off valve?
TIA,
Jim