84-86 Fuel Pressure Regulator Guage
01-17-2009, 10:19 PM
#31
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks! my little dog loves the Porsche too.
Ok, first pic from Bentley showing where you should connect the test line and valve:
And a second pic showing the test line, valve, and fuel pressure regulator:
There is a short flexible hose that comes out of the bottom of the fpr, then it goes into the threaded connection shown in the B&W pic. The threaded connection should be undone, as per Bentley, and the test line installed between this connection and the fuel line with the coiled wire over it. This line goes back to the fuel tank.
However, you should do the pressure test first. If you get 36 psi with the engine off and fuel pump running, and 29 psi with engine running, then you're good to go fpr is in fine shape. There is a third test without the vac line attached.
Ok, first pic from Bentley showing where you should connect the test line and valve:
And a second pic showing the test line, valve, and fuel pressure regulator:
There is a short flexible hose that comes out of the bottom of the fpr, then it goes into the threaded connection shown in the B&W pic. The threaded connection should be undone, as per Bentley, and the test line installed between this connection and the fuel line with the coiled wire over it. This line goes back to the fuel tank.
However, you should do the pressure test first. If you get 36 psi with the engine off and fuel pump running, and 29 psi with engine running, then you're good to go fpr is in fine shape. There is a third test without the vac line attached.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:19 AM.
. I miss my dogs too
01-18-2009, 02:40 PM
#33
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the referrence Rusnak, will be doing the pressure test today.
My home made guage was tested under water, no leaks.
My home made guage was tested under water, no leaks.
Thanks! my little dog loves the Porsche too.
Ok, first pic from Bentley showing where you should connect the test line and valve:
And a second pic showing the test line, valve, and fuel pressure regulator:
There is a short flexible hose that comes out of the bottom of the fpr, then it goes into the threaded connection shown in the B&W pic. The threaded connection should be undone, as per Bentley, and the test line installed between this connection and the fuel line with the coiled wire over it. This line goes back to the fuel tank.
However, you should do the pressure test first. If you get 36 psi with the engine off and fuel pump running, and 29 psi with engine running, then you're good to go fpr is in fine shape. There is a third test without the vac line attached.
Ok, first pic from Bentley showing where you should connect the test line and valve:
And a second pic showing the test line, valve, and fuel pressure regulator:
There is a short flexible hose that comes out of the bottom of the fpr, then it goes into the threaded connection shown in the B&W pic. The threaded connection should be undone, as per Bentley, and the test line installed between this connection and the fuel line with the coiled wire over it. This line goes back to the fuel tank.
However, you should do the pressure test first. If you get 36 psi with the engine off and fuel pump running, and 29 psi with engine running, then you're good to go fpr is in fine shape. There is a third test without the vac line attached.
01-19-2009, 12:58 AM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Update:
My home made Pressure Regulator Worked!
Cheap China Made Guage from Home Depot
Plumbing Parts from Ace = 1/2'" T fitting with step down to 3/8" and Plumbing Tape
2 Clamps
3/8" X 10-12" Fuel Injector Hose Autozone
Well she passed the Fuel Pressure Test:
36psi Engine Off (jumpered)
29psi Engine Running
35psi Engine Running Vacumm Off at Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Thanks again Rusnak and others!!!
Next Fuel Return Line Test.
My home made Pressure Regulator Worked!
Cheap China Made Guage from Home Depot
Plumbing Parts from Ace = 1/2'" T fitting with step down to 3/8" and Plumbing Tape
2 Clamps
3/8" X 10-12" Fuel Injector Hose Autozone
Well she passed the Fuel Pressure Test:
36psi Engine Off (jumpered)
29psi Engine Running
35psi Engine Running Vacumm Off at Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Thanks again Rusnak and others!!!
Next Fuel Return Line Test.
01-19-2009, 07:59 PM
#35
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hey Rusnak,
Yeah I am hoping it is the FPR, because the Fuel Pump is under my stone guard, I hate taking off my stone guard. Last time I did that I was stuck under there for 3 hours trying to figure it out until I saw Steve Alarcon, Johnson Alignment do it at his shop then I kicked myself in the ****. So easy just lift from the suspension arms, duh.
Jim
Yeah I am hoping it is the FPR, because the Fuel Pump is under my stone guard, I hate taking off my stone guard. Last time I did that I was stuck under there for 3 hours trying to figure it out until I saw Steve Alarcon, Johnson Alignment do it at his shop then I kicked myself in the ****. So easy just lift from the suspension arms, duh.
Jim
Can you explain that method of getting the stone guard back on?
I'm still at the "duh" stage, and I will need to get in there to replace my suspension bushings after they get here from ERP.
Thanks! Anyone else with tips too, much appreciated. That thing kicks my butt every time.
01-19-2009, 09:00 PM
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
Well It is pretty straight forward.
All Johnson's did was to use 2 bottle jacks and placed then under the two control arms then raised the front just enough to get to the stone guard.
You see when I tried it, i jack the side up which put pressure on the torsion bar and puts tension on the stone guard. I had to use a 6" 4X6 piece of wood to place under the stone guard to place the bolts back on. A real biotch.
Johnson's method is much easier and proper.
I guess the other thing to do is to drive up on a ramp.
The trick here is no tension on the bar except for the car at street level, not lifted. Did that make sense?
All Johnson's did was to use 2 bottle jacks and placed then under the two control arms then raised the front just enough to get to the stone guard.
You see when I tried it, i jack the side up which put pressure on the torsion bar and puts tension on the stone guard. I had to use a 6" 4X6 piece of wood to place under the stone guard to place the bolts back on. A real biotch.
Johnson's method is much easier and proper.
I guess the other thing to do is to drive up on a ramp.
The trick here is no tension on the bar except for the car at street level, not lifted. Did that make sense?
01-19-2009, 10:10 PM
#37
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
yes it did, thanks.
unfortunately I feel even more lame now because I usually have my car up on jackstands whenever I do any kind of work.
I will try lifting the control arms with my two floorjacks, but I think I'm going to end up getting owned by the stoneguard again.
unfortunately I feel even more lame now because I usually have my car up on jackstands whenever I do any kind of work.
I will try lifting the control arms with my two floorjacks, but I think I'm going to end up getting owned by the stoneguard again.
01-20-2009, 01:37 AM
#38
Three Wheelin'
Thanks, I think I got the steps after reading the Bentley again.
Yeap, all injectors in the car, it only took one hour. The old injectors needed to be pryed out and the new ones sat right in. Almost too loose but no leaks
I certainly will post a right up on the injectors. But I think I may have screwed up the evaluation because I installed NGK Iridiums so I may be gettting benefits of both installs.
The Idle seemed much smoother and less rich, quick Throttle Response but I think my pressure is off because I replaced every electronic component twice, AFM, DME and so on with known good ones and the last thing/s are the fuel pump and regulator. I suspect the pressure because she still runs too rich but better than prior to changing out the Fuel Injectors and the NGK's. She use to trickle down to 750 RPMs via the O2 Sensor because she was running rich at idle only. But now she will not drop below 800RPMs infrequently. Soon as I go up to speed then stop she would be fine or if I rev the throttle she normalizes to 880RPMs. Only on a occassion she would trickle down. Absolutley no Hunting.
Since the swap out and leaning her out to the maximum before dropping the AFM screw she no-longer stalls when cold or dip in idle when I turn on the AC.
Sorry for the long reply, I hope I made sense
Yeap, all injectors in the car, it only took one hour. The old injectors needed to be pryed out and the new ones sat right in. Almost too loose but no leaks
I certainly will post a right up on the injectors. But I think I may have screwed up the evaluation because I installed NGK Iridiums so I may be gettting benefits of both installs.
The Idle seemed much smoother and less rich, quick Throttle Response but I think my pressure is off because I replaced every electronic component twice, AFM, DME and so on with known good ones and the last thing/s are the fuel pump and regulator. I suspect the pressure because she still runs too rich but better than prior to changing out the Fuel Injectors and the NGK's. She use to trickle down to 750 RPMs via the O2 Sensor because she was running rich at idle only. But now she will not drop below 800RPMs infrequently. Soon as I go up to speed then stop she would be fine or if I rev the throttle she normalizes to 880RPMs. Only on a occassion she would trickle down. Absolutley no Hunting.
Since the swap out and leaning her out to the maximum before dropping the AFM screw she no-longer stalls when cold or dip in idle when I turn on the AC.
Sorry for the long reply, I hope I made sense
Sounds like you need to get your car into a shop that knows what they are doing and get the CO level and base idle speed checked. The only way to really tell if you are running correctly at idle is to get it hooked up to a good CO meter. Blindly replacing parts based on an assumption that the engine is running rich is just a waste of money (lower RPMs at idle on these motors usually point to LEAN running, think about what happens when you remove your oil cap while the engine is running and introduce a vacuum leak into the system . . . ). I think it's cool that you guys do your own work, don't get me wrong, but it seems like I read too many posts of parts being replaced on a wing and a prayer to no avail. I'm sure Pelican Parts, et al are happy, and you do get the experience of removing and installing different parts, but get a set of factory manuals and do some good old-fashioned troubleshooting before opening that wallet!
01-20-2009, 02:18 AM
#39
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Chris,
that's a good point and well said. But I think he's going through the old fashioned troubleshooting right now.
Jim, if I'm not mistaken, you have a LM-1 right? I found that my '84 runs best at around 840 rpm and 13.5 +/- AFR, maybe a tad richer w the cat bypass.
that's a good point and well said. But I think he's going through the old fashioned troubleshooting right now.
Jim, if I'm not mistaken, you have a LM-1 right? I found that my '84 runs best at around 840 rpm and 13.5 +/- AFR, maybe a tad richer w the cat bypass.
01-20-2009, 01:57 PM
#40
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey Rusnak,
Yes, I have access to an LM1. With SW Chip and CBP it is supposed to idle at 880 RPM's and 14.2 -14.7 on AFR.
The issue is she will go rich on occasion at stops and the O2 Sensor will lean her out resulting in low idle of 800. The new refurbed injectors has stopped her from going down belw 800 to 750 RPMs.
Yes, I have access to an LM1. With SW Chip and CBP it is supposed to idle at 880 RPM's and 14.2 -14.7 on AFR.
The issue is she will go rich on occasion at stops and the O2 Sensor will lean her out resulting in low idle of 800. The new refurbed injectors has stopped her from going down belw 800 to 750 RPMs.
01-20-2009, 02:20 PM
#41
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
wow, that's 1.0 lambda. I wonder if the stock chip would run with the replacement injectors. I guess the stock chip must run way rich compared to SW? I just can't get mine to run well at 1.0 lambda.
01-20-2009, 11:11 PM
#43
Three Wheelin'
Hey Rusnak,
Yes, I have access to an LM1. With SW Chip and CBP it is supposed to idle at 880 RPM's and 14.2 -14.7 on AFR.
The issue is she will go rich on occasion at stops and the O2 Sensor will lean her out resulting in low idle of 800. The new refurbed injectors has stopped her from going down belw 800 to 750 RPMs.
Yes, I have access to an LM1. With SW Chip and CBP it is supposed to idle at 880 RPM's and 14.2 -14.7 on AFR.
The issue is she will go rich on occasion at stops and the O2 Sensor will lean her out resulting in low idle of 800. The new refurbed injectors has stopped her from going down belw 800 to 750 RPMs.
01-20-2009, 11:32 PM
#44
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
ok now this thread has my attention, haha. I'm selfishly waiting to compare notes with Droops and Draco 'cause I need the info for my own notes.
How do you measure and record the afr under load? Do you rig up a long lead taped to the fender? Or do you go in over the tranny and through the tunnel cover? I was looking at all of this a few weekends ago because right now all I have is afr with no load at idle. I think my stock chip might actually need to have the afr set to around 13.0 at 840 rpm ('84 chip).
My thinking is that the stock chip might be more suitable to the Buick injectors. You can check the afm easily enough with a multimeter.
How do you measure and record the afr under load? Do you rig up a long lead taped to the fender? Or do you go in over the tranny and through the tunnel cover? I was looking at all of this a few weekends ago because right now all I have is afr with no load at idle. I think my stock chip might actually need to have the afr set to around 13.0 at 840 rpm ('84 chip).
My thinking is that the stock chip might be more suitable to the Buick injectors. You can check the afm easily enough with a multimeter.
01-21-2009, 12:11 AM
#45
Racer
Thread Starter
As I recall only at idle she would run at around 12.? Freakin Rich. under load and high RPM's she would be spot on 14.7:1.
I get infrequent "trickle down" on idle at stops from decel she would settle down to 880RPMs, while I am sitting there at the stop sign, she would trickle down to 800RPM's. The O2 Sensor would lean her out due to richness. I can even smell the richness.
I swapped my OEM stock chip, jumpered B/C, adjusted base idle to 780 RPMs same damn thing too rich! The AFR screw is 9-10 turns out. I know this is too much. It should only be 2-3.5 turns out from closed position.
Rusnak, I used blue painters tape and ran the rig out and over the fender into the door to the cig lighter.
I get infrequent "trickle down" on idle at stops from decel she would settle down to 880RPMs, while I am sitting there at the stop sign, she would trickle down to 800RPM's. The O2 Sensor would lean her out due to richness. I can even smell the richness.
I swapped my OEM stock chip, jumpered B/C, adjusted base idle to 780 RPMs same damn thing too rich! The AFR screw is 9-10 turns out. I know this is too much. It should only be 2-3.5 turns out from closed position.
Rusnak, I used blue painters tape and ran the rig out and over the fender into the door to the cig lighter.