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This reminds me of my first oil change on my SC. I couldn't get the drain plug off the tank, so instead of making the usual mistake with a pan that was too small under the oil tank, I pulled off the S-hose and spewed oil all over the floor sideways.
The drain plug was on so tight I thought I was going to tear off the bottom of the l tank. I ended up having to use a Dremel to carefully cut between the drain plug and the washer. Sacrificed the drain plug, but once I cut through all the way around I was practically able to spin off the drain plug with my fingers. Luckily no damage to the threads or the sealing surface.
Mark
i cant even imagine how much fun that would have been from under the car..
URO Parts Engine Sump Plate 901 101 386 00-PRM is actually an improvement upon the original. We upgraded the material to stainless steel, but painted it black to maintain the original appearance. We've sold almost 200 so far with none returned, so they must be working for folks.
Last edited by URO Support; 07-13-2021 at 07:28 PM.
Drain plug's a pretty hefty nut, 31 ft lb sounds fine never having used a torque wrench on this.
How about a pic of the sump plate ?
The old plate with the compromised thread? I can get a pic of it. I saved it, don't know why. Yea 31 ft-lbs is nothing for 18mm (iirc) thread. I suspect someone before me overtaxed the thread.
Given that the threaded area for the drain plug is the same thickness as the rest of the stamped plate, there's not a lot of material supporting the threads, so the threads in the plate would likely fail before the plug threads if someone grossly overtorques it.
Sometimes it is better off NOT using a torque wrench that is inaccurate. Torque value of 31ft/lbs needs a torque wrench within that range (3/8" size) to be on the safe side. Nothing worse than over-torquing some fasteners (i.e. aluminum) threads that you can't even retap them. I would rather hand-torque some fasteners than risking using an inaccurate torque wrench.