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The powder coating of the fan and housing sent me down the fan / fan speed / fan + crank pulley size / fan belt / alternator grounding / air diverter rathole.
On the positive side, car should run slightly cooler, be better grounded, weigh less, and look cleaner when I finally climb out of the hole. My wallet is already quite a bit lighter for sure...
The only ground to the alternator was via a ~12 gauge wire from the engine case to a fan diverter nut. The 3 ground wires that were attached to the D- on the alternator were simply cut off and taped in the harness, not connected to anything. Likely the ground was fine through the alternator case --> fan housing --> engine case. Did not have any problem, but I am adding a direct ground from the alternator to the case.
Bob finished the transmission rebuild using replacement nose cone and shift rod, plus 2 new syncros, 3rd gear dog teeth, operating sleeve and mainshaft nut. Almost ready to be reunited with the engine.
Meanwhile, I did a lot of stuff while the engine was on the stand:
Powder coated / painted the fan housing, engine tins, engine and exhaust carrier, tranny carrier, rain hats, etc.
New bolts, nuts and washers everywhere.
New rear axles, heat exchanger tubes, tranny mounts, aluminum fan, half pulley and hardware, starter, fan belt, fan diverter, fan housing strap, alternator harness / rewire, oil return tubes, oil crossover pipe, valve cover gaskets, timing chain cover gaskets and o-rings.
Valve adjustment, checked head studs, rocker seals, and rewired the starter relay.
Going to need a few shakedown cruises to check and sort everything out. Bob is helping me put in a new rear main seal before I reinstall the flywheel and clutch.
That was an adventure. So far, so good.
looking pretty clean...
Last edited by TheTorch; 04-09-2021 at 11:48 PM.
Reason: more stuff.
BTW, the nose case was replaced because Bob found a wood screw under some suspicious epoxy, among other concerns. Highly irregular though probably didn't affect anything !
Reunited the transmission with the motor only to find the engine stud that goes through the starter is not long enough -- barely 2-3mm showing to attach the nut. Had to order the proper 122mm stud, so another couple of days of waiting for parts and over spending on Fedex shipping...
Just adding a postscript, since sometimes these projects go on after you think you are done. Transmission had a couple of leaks I had to sort out, and Bob installed a new seal at one of the stub axles, which fixed it. Then I replaced the clutch cable for good measure, and over the course of a couple of weeks the cable seemed to keep stretching -- way more than it should -- until I ran out of threads at both ends.
Finally realized the roll pin that was holds the clutch pedal arm to the clutch rod was disintegrating. So I pulled the pedal cluster, pulled out what was left of the old pin, put in a new one, added new brass bushing at the clevis, and replaced the clutch rod for good measure. This also explains the mystery where I had to enlarge the slot fo the clutch pedal stop in my rennline floor board. Adjusted brake light switch too.
She shifts sweetly now, no sponginess in the pedal, which was being caused by the roll pin. A $1 part can really cause a problem sometimes.
I also got rid of my Wevo shifter and went with a factory short shift. This was an unqualified improvement in my opinion. Looks good, shifts good.
04-08-2021, 11:26 AM
