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"While you're in there" list is growing now that the engine is on the stand. Pulled the heat exchangers without a hitch; no problems with the head studs.
Oil return tubes look dry, except MAYBE one. Suck it up and replace all of them now?
Definitely looking at the timing chain cover gaskets as they are so accessible now. Thoughts?
Trying to not to borrow trouble by being too proactive, but some of this stuff is light years easier on the stand...
the oil return tubes rarely go bad. ... the ccover gaskets are kind of a pain... lots of scraping old gasket off and tricky even with motor out. i would only do it if they were leaking already
Today I learned the "milk bottle condom" trick with the P201 yoke / binding on a generic engine stand. Though for me it was a tonic water bottle and a little lithium grease. Worked like a charm to get the engine rotating on the stand.
Pulled the flywheel since i suspected some weeping from the rear main seal. Thoughts on replacing the seal? Pictures below: no cleaning was done when I took them.
Not sure if there is much leaking at the seal. The shiny dark spot is some kind of case sealer that's been there a long time. Just a faint shine of oil along the bottom of the seal. The small amount of oil there could have been from the seal, or from the terrible triangle on the casetop above (oil return line, oil pressure and thermostat).
Anyone have a link to good instructions for removing engine baffle tins? I can't for the life of me find a good one online or in any of my books.
Parts 14-18, etc. that surround the cylinder heads. Just bend #17s and that's it? Feels like a jigsaw puzzle that is hard to figure out. I have the fan / housing out so I can access the top of the case.
Spring clip 17 is bent at both ends, you press it down and the end slip out from hole in baffle. Re-install baffles back to original position, but verify that installed correctly.
Spring clip 17 is bent at both ends, you press it down and the end slip out from hole in baffle. Re-install baffles back to original position, but verify that installed correctly.
Thanks. I figured that out with some head scratching. Oil return tubes have to be out to get them out, correct?
This might be the line where I stop on this project...
Looking at photos, I would say yes. If you plan to remove the heads, you don't need to crush the original tubes
and need only new seals. Check if tubes "corroded", they are aluminium or similar if I remember correctly.
But if you don't remove the heads, you have to use the 2-part tubes.
Yes, as long as things are working well, I prefer to keep as much of my 911 built in West Germany as possible.
I don't think above count anymore. GKN is an old and good brand. What I know they are or have been Porsche source of drive shafts.
Today parts are manufactured all over the world and I would not look at the manufacturing country, more on the manufacturer. For example
SKF is making bearings in India, Mexico to name a few, but I'm convinced that their manufacturing process and quality control ensure that the
bearings are quality parts regardless of manufacturing country. I would be more suspicious about some unknown manufacturer that are plenty
around. Some of the part suppliers list several options of parts to choose from. If you stay within known brands you should be OK.
But "oldskewel" is correct there that one reason why Porsche is (was?) so good is that it was built using good quality parts where the cost was
not the primary reason to choose parts.
Be very careful to check that you don't get counterfeit parts.
03-13-2021, 12:27 PM
