TheTorch

These are excellent points. Man, they are heavy and feel solid and tight. I think they are staying. So far the worst part of the engine drop has been the cleaning of normally unseen things and the usual hassle of draining the oils.

TheTorch

damn, I spoke too soon. Getting the speedo cable off is about to become the bottleneck.

TheTorch

...turns out taking off the crossmember is pretty easy. And finally put that fancy German 27mm flare nut wrench to use. Double win!

myflat6

Good call. So much easier without the cross member

r911

time to paint, powdercoat or ceracoat the cross member...

clean everything that's easy to get to "while you're in there"

r911

BTW the clutch fork is under-designed and often cracks so a pre-emptive repl. is not out of the question

TheTorch

That's my first time dropping a 911 engine / tranny. Took me about a day and a half of deliberate work. Nothing too hard. Spent about half the time online looking up the nuances of a hotrod (69 car, 69 speedo, pre-77 915 transmission, special clutch release arm, MSD / PMO carbs, dissecting some custom stuff like a starter relay wiring, etc.) and fabricating jackstands to get the minimum required height without having to get new, higher floor jacks. The most awkward part was lowering with 2 jacks to get it low enough to roll back for the shift linkage to clear the tunnel. Having an ATV jack was key to not worrying about balancing it. Onward...

Geneman

congratulations torch dude. you got it! first time drop is always a bit wiggy. then its like brushing your teeth. best wishes. frank

Geneman

r911. is there an aftermarket fork that is much more stout? which one is best ?

r911

not that I know of - clean and examine minutely

since you now know how easy it is to R&R the powertrain, if it does crack later on you can replace it, tho it could leave you stranded

they used to be $120 so if any crack has started it's not a killer to replace now - even if price has doubled

TheTorch

Thanks for the tips. I am gonna have questions about inspecting the clutch for wear after I pull the transmission off.

TheTorch

@r911 Do I need to remove the pressure plate to look at the clutch wear? Is it just unbolt 9 bolts and the release bearing comes with it? Thx

Geneman

yes. everything comes right off with those bolts... release bearing stays on the pp. be sure to use brand new bolts when you reassemble,. they stretch when torqued, cannot reuse under any circumstances. the clutch plate and the flywheel surface is under the pressure plate ,. need to look at its wear. be sure to replace the pinion bearing , which sits in the flywheel , when you re assemble

myflat6

Use a good quality hex bit for the pressure plate bolts and a good quality triple square for the flywheel bolts. You do not want these to strip. The flywheel bolts in particular. I had one of the pressure plate bolts strip. Used snap on bits after that.

TheTorch

Ok. Great. Looking up how to install a pinion bearing -- does it have to be pressed in? More research...


Took an hour or two cleaning the crap off my starter. Thing weighs a ton and looks like it's been to the wars. I see high torque starters are lighter and people love them. Any thoughts?