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Do I need to remove the flywheel to get the pilot bearing out?
Do I need to remove the flywheel in general -- seems like I shouldn't unless there is weepage from the engine rear main seal, no?
no need to screw with the fw unless its chaffed , warped or otherwise. my bad.: its the pilot bearing , not the pinion bearing.. if it looks fine leave it.
I don't think you need to replace the pressure plate bolts, it's the flywheel bolts that need in some cars to be replaced.
Verify from factory manuals what bolts need to be replaced. Perhaps you should first verify IF you need to change
the pilot bearing. There is no need to replace parts that are still OK, my humble opinion. Pilot bearing removal need
a puller and some skill. Don't fix things that aren't broken or worn!
You should mark all parts that can be assembled in different positions. Like drive shafts. Now you could also re-lubricate
the CV-joints in drive shafts and check the rubber boots.
Now is a good time to check the starter and lubricate the bearings. Resist the temptation to "clean" the commutator
with emery paper if it's smooth. Check the wear of the bearings. A high torque starter is not required if you don't have
some cash to burn or wan't to get rid of some weight.
There are tons of articles what and how to do things on a 911 engine & transmission while they are out. Do some
reading and make a plan what to do.
If you don't "touch" the ring and pinion assembly, the transmission itself is very simple to repair, excellent write ups on
the web how to do. The dog rings only can be replaced, usually no need to purchase new gears.
I don't think you need to replace the pressure plate bolts, it's the flywheel bolts that need in some cars to be replaced.
Verify from factory manuals what bolts need to be replaced. Perhaps you should first verify IF you need to change
the pilot bearing. There is no need to replace parts that are still OK, my humble opinion. Pilot bearing removal need
a puller and some skill. Don't fix things that aren't broken or worn!
You should mark all parts that can be assembled in different positions. Like drive shafts. Now you could also re-lubricate
the CV-joints in drive shafts and check the rubber boots.
Now is a good time to check the starter and lubricate the bearings. Resist the temptation to "clean" the commutator
with emery paper if it's smooth. Check the wear of the bearings. A high torque starter is not required if you don't have
some cash to burn or wan't to get rid of some weight.
There are tons of articles what and how to do things on a 911 engine & transmission while they are out. Do some
reading and make a plan what to do.
If you don't "touch" the ring and pinion assembly, the transmission itself is very simple to repair, excellent write ups on
the web how to do. The dog rings only can be replaced, usually no need to purchase new gears.
Vane,
Thanks for the advice. Been reading up on everything related to this the past few days. Still, I find it helpful to have first hand advice from folks on here.
The torque on the pressure plate bolts is low enough (18 ft lbs) you are probably right about not having to replace them, but at $15 for 9 that's the kind of thing I will just replace.
The drive shafts / CV joints feel solid, but the CV grease is decidedly black but looks like it started out green. The boots look very fresh, though someone used a plastic zip tie on them instead of steel, which makes me cautious about what they did or how they did it.
Today I'll pull the pressure plate and see what I see. Hoping as you say not to replace the pilot bearing, clutch plate, main seal, nor have to pull the flywheel.
The CV joint grease should be dark grey or almost black because it has Molybdenum in it.
If green, then perhaps someone used standard grease, if so change the grease. You can
dissolve the existing grease and repack the joint without taking it a part. If you change the
boots, pay attention how you mount the steel clamps related to rotation, but this you knew.
If you remove the grease, you can check if the joint is good. When turning in your hand,
can you feel any binding or play? You have your car on blocks, don't roll your car when you
have the driveshafts out. Don't swap them left to right and vice versa.
Check the throwout bearing, this usually need to be changed.
How long have you had this car and do you know the service history. Nice color
I don't think you need to replace the pressure plate bolts, it's the flywheel bolts that need in some cars to be replaced.
Verify from factory manuals what bolts need to be replaced. Perhaps you should first verify IF you need to change
the pilot bearing. There is no need to replace parts that are still OK, my humble opinion. Pilot bearing removal need
a puller and some skill. Don't fix things that aren't broken or worn!
You should mark all parts that can be assembled in different positions. Like drive shafts. Now you could also re-lubricate
the CV-joints in drive shafts and check the rubber boots.
Now is a good time to check the starter and lubricate the bearings. Resist the temptation to "clean" the commutator
with emery paper if it's smooth. Check the wear of the bearings. A high torque starter is not required if you don't have
some cash to burn or wan't to get rid of some weight.
There are tons of articles what and how to do things on a 911 engine & transmission while they are out. Do some
reading and make a plan what to do.
If you don't "touch" the ring and pinion assembly, the transmission itself is very simple to repair, excellent write ups on
the web how to do. The dog rings only can be replaced, usually no need to purchase new gears.
Right, neither bolt is single use on most of our cars. OTOH, it won't hurt to use new factory cap screws. Just be sure to check your torque wrench for accuracy.
Some pics of the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. To my eye, they look good, bearing are working well, etc. See anything of concern that I am missing?
Was lucky enough to have long time expert and founder of Real Mean Garage agree to rebuild my transmission. Today he had me down to the shop to review the issues in person after he took it apart. Incredibly informative. Overall good condition, clean, etc.
While the 3rd gear issue appears to be a 3rd/4th clutch fork that was moved 2mm out of alignment (towards 3rd, away from 4th), there is enough damage to the 3rd synchro to warrant replacement. Additionally, there are 2 leaky seals, the clutch release fork is worn, and more concerningly, evidence that part of the case was repaired in the past with epoxy where the magnesium had partially disintegrated by the speedo gear.
nice work, Torch! seems pretty great that Bob from RMG is working on this (I thought he had retired?). hope you get it all back together soon.
Bob is retired but still does some work from time to time, maybe only transmissions. The guy has forgotten more than I'll ever know.
We are trying to source a part right now that is holding us up: prefer to replace the nose part of the case due to some degradation:
I need a 1975 US 5-speed front transmission case that has a threaded mechanical speedometer fitting, not an electronic one. Part is 915.301.301 OR I believe, though there are more variants of this part than part numbers.
03-08-2021, 09:13 PM
