When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
3.12 and Pagid yellows are fine on the street. I run the Pagids year round and I know folks much more expert than me who keep the 3.12s on for street use. A little squealing on low speed stops but unless you're a Princess and Pea kind of person or drive a lot in stop and go traffic, not a problem.
Originally Posted by j-dub
Just for another reference point, I have swapped to the 3.12s and I really don't see a downside. The initial bite when cold is pretty good, leaves no desire for more. The dust is not excessive, seems less than the OE pad. Finally the noise, I do get a squeak every now and then, that typically happens when you have not gotten any heat in them to transfer material to the rotor. If they continue to squeak simply get them warm with a few bigger brake cycles. The cost, yea they are more expensive so there is that.
I would 100% buy them again.
Originally Posted by dgrobs
So am I. Why would you track ceramic rotors on a regular basis. Seems like a lot of $$ spent for no gain, then add the cost of a track pad that will work with those ceramic discs.
3.12s, Yellows, etc. and Gyrodisc slotted discs. That's your track set up, whether you street the car or not.
I am also talking about competent track drivers, advanced, instructors, racers, etc. Never seen them on a car that's tracked regularly, (including my 2, although I am not a great track driver by any stretch).
Slotted rotors (read: not OEM cross drilled discs) and a real track pad work great on the track and are fine for the street.
Again, I may be misunderstanding what you're saying, and if I am, sorry about that...again.
Ok ok so I caved. Linda at @ApexPerformance got me setup with DS3.12 and Girodisc rotors. Just hope they get here in time for my next track day this Thursday!
Going on this very moment. The Girodisc caliper kit is super nice but getting the caliper onto the rear studs is a royal pain with the brake line bracket!
Going on this very moment. The Girodisc caliper kit is super nice but getting the caliper onto the rear studs is a royal pain with the brake line bracket!
Looks like we’re soon to have identical builds. The Girodiscs are on my wish list for off-season upgrades, though I’m contemplating on buying the Sebros from FCP.
Caliper stud conversion kits do make life easier, but only if you change out the hard brake fluid lines to braided. The added ~3” that you have to clear from the studs sticking out is a PIA! I suggest getting the bracket stud conversion as well if you dont have them. I ordered my conversion kit from Tarett.
I see new pads in the mix, did you go with 3.12’s?
Looks like we’re soon to have identical builds. The Girodiscs are on my wish list for off-season upgrades, though I’m contemplating on buying the Sebros from FCP.
Caliper stud conversion kits do make life easier, but only if you change out the hard brake fluid lines to braided. The added ~3” that you have to clear from the studs sticking out is a PIA! I suggest getting the bracket stud conversion as well if you dont have them. I ordered my conversion kit from Tarett.
I see new pads in the mix, did you go with 3.12’s?
I found it much easier to do in the second side by unclipping the wires that were stuck to the rear part of the bracket. That made it slide over the upright giving plenty of room. I've heard mixed reviews about changing the stock brake lines out on these, but I'll look into a setup that eliminates the hardlines before the next pad swap.
Upgraded to the DS3.12 pads. Between the brakes and the new alignment with -.5* more camber all around and .5mm toe out up front, tomorrow's track day will take some adjustments for sure!
I found it much easier to do in the second side by unclipping the wires that were stuck to the rear part of the bracket. That made it slide over the upright giving plenty of room. I've heard mixed reviews about changing the stock brake lines out on these, but I'll look into a setup that eliminates the hardlines before the next pad swap.
Upgraded to the DS3.12 pads. Between the brakes and the new alignment with -.5* more camber all around and .5mm toe out up front, tomorrow's track day will take some adjustments for sure!
I’ll have to try taking the wires off on my next swap before buying new lines. I literally felt like I had to fight each caliper to get them over the studs, with very little clearance to work with. This was also my first time ever working on any brake system myself, so I’ll chalk it up to being a noob.. the other three swaps weren’t as bad as the first. There’s just one perfect angle to get them aligned, then I used the nuts in rotating order to get them to seat properly before torquing down.
So you’re at 1MM total toe out upfront; what are your specs for camper?
Im currently running on stock suspension bits, so I could only max out as -2.3F/-1.7R - this was okay for my first track weekend as I saw even tread wear, though I started to see a more outside biased wear, and outside shoulder wear after this past weekend. My desired spec for next season with Camber plates, and toe likes is -2.7/-2.2, total toe 0F/4R to hold me over for the following season.
I’ll have to try taking the wires off on my next swap before buying new lines. I literally felt like I had to fight each caliper to get them over the studs, with very little clearance to work with. This was also my first time ever working on any brake system myself, so I’ll chalk it up to being a noob.. the other three swaps weren’t as bad as the first. There’s just one perfect angle to get them aligned, then I used the nuts in rotating order to get them to seat properly before torquing down.
So you’re at 1MM total toe out upfront; what are your specs for camper?
Im currently running on stock suspension bits, so I could only max out as -2.3F/-1.7R - this was okay for my first track weekend as I saw even tread wear, though I started to see a more outside biased wear, and outside shoulder wear after this past weekend. My desired spec for next season with Camber plates, and toe likes is -2.7/-2.2, total toe 0F/4R to hold me over for the following season.
The more you do it the easier it gets, but I'd still worry about flexing the hard lines too much.
Running -3.0f/-2.5r, 1mm total toe out front, 5mm total toe in rear. I ran -2.5/-2.0 for 7 track days and noticed as I increased my pace, I still had too much wear on the outside edges of my RE71RS. I have dundon front and alekshop rear camber plates, along with TPC toe links and tie rods.
The more you do it the easier it gets, but I'd still worry about flexing the hard lines too much.
Running -3.0f/-2.5r, 1mm total toe out front, 5mm total toe in rear. I ran -2.5/-2.0 for 7 track days and noticed as I increased my pace, I still had too much wear on the outside edges of my RE71RS. I have dundon front and alekshop rear camber plates, along with TPC toe links and tie rods.
The OEM front springs are too soft. This is where the 60 Nm fronts will help immensely. The next step up would be a set of 70/90, or the 80/100 that others have used before.
The OEM front springs are too soft. This is where the 60 Nm fronts will help immensely. The next step up would be a set of 70/90, or the 80/100 that others have used before.
I think I'll just do MCS if I decide to do any other suspension mods.
06-16-2024, 02:22 PM
