When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I
Did you apply anti-seize on the hats only or the whole area that was rusted ? I assumed only on the hats was correct according the manual. I’d like to stop rust over the whole area that was rusted and not paint them just protect/prevent.
The whole area in your photo. Just a very thin later with 1cm paintbrush. Copper paste will also work.
I used a dremel with small stainless steel wire brush attachments. Works great.
Good idea, I have one, just need to be careful about touching the rotor hat.
Originally Posted by F1-DNA
Did you apply anti-seize on the hats only or the whole area that was rusted ? I assumed only on the hats was correct according the manual. I’d like to stop rust over the whole area that was rusted and not paint them just protect/prevent.
My goal would be the same, protect/prevent rust, need to be careful not to put anything that could migrate to the rotor surface and pads and contaminate them. Perhaps a corrosion inhibitor like Boeshield T-9?
Good idea, I have one, just need to be careful about touching the rotor hat.
My goal would be the same, protect/prevent rust, need to be careful not to put anything that could migrate to the rotor surface and pads and contaminate them. Perhaps a corrosion inhibitor like Boeshield T-9?
I don't like the "lubrication" part of Boseshield though. I may try WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor or just apply a very thin layer of anti-seize on the whole rusted area like others have suggested and call it day.
I don't like the "lubrication" part of Boseshield though. I may try WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor or just apply a very thin layer of anti-seize on the whole rusted area like others have suggested and call it day.
I haven't investigated the WD-40 corrosion product you mentioned, will have to research this. I have Boeshield, it is amazing stuff, the lubrication aspect is interesting, in as it does leave a boundary layer of material behind, very thin mind you. I built a support column out of HSS steel for a kitchen reno nearly 10 years ago, I sanded the surface of the steel until it mimicked the look of the stainless appliances that are close by, this includes the gas range on which we boil water and cook daily, I coated the column with Boeshield the day I installed it and touch it up every few years and it still looks like the day I finished it and not a spec of rust to be seem, and people touch every time they see it. The Boeshield application goes on wet, and I removed the excess with a dry cloth which leaves the surface dry to the touch, really no hint of lubrication.
I haven't investigated the WD-40 corrosion product you mentioned, will have to research this. I have Boeshield, it is amazing stuff, the lubrication aspect is interesting, in as it does leave a boundary layer of material behind, very thin mind you. I built a support column out of HSS steel for a kitchen reno nearly 10 years ago, I sanded the surface of the steel until it mimicked the look of the stainless appliances that are close by, this includes the gas range on which we boil water and cook daily, I coated the column with Boeshield the day I installed it and touch it up every few years and it still looks like the day I finished it and not a spec of rust to be seem, and people touch every time they see it. The Boeshield application goes on wet, and I removed the excess with a dry cloth which leaves the surface dry to the touch, really no hint of lubrication.
Hmm interesting! Yea, I bet that lubrication part is very minor. I would apply some anti-seize only on the hat areas if I went this route but if it does add some "lube" to the surface it may not stick as well vs apply it to the bare metal.
Any suggestions on a way to stop rust from forming on the hubs/hats? Rust Inhibitor spray? They looks so perfect now after some wire brush cleaning.
Excellent work!
In my show car days, I would paint after a thorough degreaser with Seymour cast blast.
The owners manual (not in reach) mentions something that you can use, but NOT grease.
LOL, so I used wheel bearing grease, but I wiped practically dry, which you can do *if* you’re careful.
You have to be patient and really wipe it off, leaving just a sheen.
To date, mine look great, just a minor discoloration.
But yours looks day 1.
Originally Posted by SpeedySpidey;[url=tel:18651832
18651832[/url]]Excellent work!
In my show car days, I would paint after a thorough degreaser with Seymour cast blast.
The owners manual (not in reach) mentions something that you can use, but NOT grease.
LOL, so I used wheel bearing grease, but I wiped practically dry, which you can do *if* you’re careful.
You have to be patient and really wipe it off, leaving just a sheen.
To date, mine look great, just a minor discoloration.
But yours looks day 1.
Porsche wants you to use Optimoly® TA on the tabs/hats. I’m pretty sure it’s very similar to Permatex Anti-Seize which is what I normally use.
I have been meaning to get one of those. I had to google to find a seller with free shipping and no tax as I was not going to pay $15 shipping and $4 tax for a $45 part.
Currently have this mounted to the left of the mirror, using the supplied single suction cup mount. Hardwire kit to the fuse box arriving tomorrow (no auto dim mirror).
Not sure if I'll ever buy the Blendmount mirror kit, as I feel this makes the center viewing area look too bulky, and I like how its up and out of the way in its current position. Not to mention, the Blendmount is on back-order, so its not like I have a choice.
R8 has been loaded with Vortex Radars suggested settings, with one change being X-Band ON, as I travel into NJ (shore) during the Spring-Fall.
Currently have this mounted to the left of the mirror, using the supplied single suction cup mount. Hardwire kit to the fuse box arriving tomorrow (no auto dim mirror).
Not sure if I'll ever buy the Blendmount mirror kit, as I feel this makes the center viewing area look too bulky, and I like how its up and out of the way in its current position. Not to mention, the Blendmount is on back-order, so its not like I have a choice.
R8 has been loaded with Vortex Radars suggested settings, with one change being X-Band ON, as I travel into NJ (shore) during the Spring-Fall.
Can you share some details on your hardwire kit, installation, open fuse location choice, fuse tap, etc? I think I could do a mirror tap, but going to the fuse box is probably better. Routing the wire down the A pillar should be straightforward enough, but I'm not sure how the current flows in the box.
Currently have this mounted to the left of the mirror, using the supplied single suction cup mount. Hardwire kit to the fuse box arriving tomorrow (no auto dim mirror).
Not sure if I'll ever buy the Blendmount mirror kit, as I feel this makes the center viewing area look too bulky, and I like how its up and out of the way in its current position. Not to mention, the Blendmount is on back-order, so its not like I have a choice.
R8 has been loaded with Vortex Radars suggested settings, with one change being X-Band ON, as I travel into NJ (shore) during the Spring-Fall.
I used to use only KA band, until I was caught doing a more 'vigorous' speed on the NJ palisades. Was massively confused why my radar detector didn't go off when he claimed to have radar caught me. Luckily wasn't that far over so got a very minor ticket with no points, but when I realized that I was infact driving along there spiritedly with no protection for years I shuddered a bit I leave every band on now and just deal with all the false alarms from Honda blind spot monitor etc.
02-24-2023, 02:12 AM
I leave every band on now and just deal with all the false alarms from Honda blind spot monitor etc.