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This started off as a joke, but for three hours of your time, this might be a good temporary solution for those who are waiting for more long tube race manifold + Catted OAPs to hit the market.
After a member’s witty reply on another thread, I said to myself, why not just get rid of the ceramic matrix that’s in there to free up the exhaust a little?
I haven’t met another 718 GT4/S/Sypder owner in the area with aftermarket OAPs so I can’t give you a first hand impression on sound differences between a gutted OEM vs aftermarket, but I’d bet it’s close.
Your mileage may vary: OFF-ROAD USE ONLY
Recommended for North American Unmonitored Dummy GPFs only. May cause CELs in monitored systems.
Cost:
$9.99 because I drank a handle of beers during the project 🍻 Difficulty:
2/10 Time Required:
3 Hours Tools Required:
12mm Socket
12mm Box Wrench
13mm Socket
13mm Deep Socket
19mm Deep Socket
E-Torx 12 Socket
T25 Socket / Key
3/8” Drive Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Jack
Jack Stands
Chisel/ Prybar Instructions:
Use T25 socket to remove 6 bolts holding rear diffuser in place.
Jack up vehicle and place Jack-stands as required.
Remove Lug Bolts using 19mm Socket, Remove Rear Wheels.
Use E-Torx 12 socket to remove 2 lower muffler support bolts.
Use combination of 13mm, 13mm deep sockets and ratchet to remove 3 Nuts on the Manifold - OAP flange.
Use combination of 12mm socket, ratchet and 12mm wrench to remove 5 Nuts on the OAP - Rear Muffler flange.
Disconnect PSE Vacuum Hose. (Great time to do Grub-Screw PSE Delete using M6 Setscrew if you haven’t already done so)
Remove OAP. Don a respirator or equivalent mask, ceramic dust is nasty stuff.
Using a Chisel or Prybar, begin to work you way across the ceramic matrix, breaking it into smaller chunks so that it can readily fall out. It helps to have a shop vac with HEPA filter in there as you’re working to keep dust to a minimum.
Loosen and remove the fiberglass insulation from the edge of canister.
Repeat on other side and reinstall OAPs. REMEMBER TO TORQUE YOUR WHEELS!
Results:
Took it for an longer drive, the news is good, the news is real good.
It’s not loud, but definitely adds a moderate level of volume and tone above 3500rpm. There’s a little bit of drone from 2000- 2200rpm if you just let it lug around in 6th gear and 60mph.
Can definitely hear more of the exhaust pop and crackles when down shifting and when aggressively lifting off with intent.
Perhaps comparable to how the 981 generation cars sounds with PSE?
I like it. I’ll most likely run this until more Dundon / JCR headers become readily available.
Unfortunately I don’t have any thing other than an iPhone to record sound clips for you guys, but here’s a cold start if it’s worth anything.
Volume increase is just as described. Not significant, but just a little more. This will hold me over till my #2020 delayed race pipe gets here.
Originally Posted by kj71109
Definitely pulls harder and sounds better. It’s not a huge sound increase, but it finally is giving me just a little bit more of that GT car sound. It’s very subtitle, but it is there around the 6kish mark.
Originally Posted by jfh342
During the first short drive, I really did not notice much difference. A bit more sound perhaps, but not much. A spirited sport drive is still needed to fully evaluate the differences.
Awesome! So is the structure like a brittle ceramic? From that final picture it looks like the entire rear cavity is empty now? What do you figure the removed material weighs?
Awesome! So is the structure like a brittle ceramic? From that final picture it looks like the entire rear cavity is empty now? What do you figure the removed material weighs?
Correct. It’s a ceramic matrix that’s lined with fiberglass around the edge of the canister for heat insulation. Maybe 2# in material per side. There is more material than what’s shown in the bucket as my shop vac was sucking a lot of material up as I was chipping away at it.
This started off as a joke, but for three hours of your time, this might be a good temporary solution for those who are waiting for more long tube race manifold + Catted OAPs to hit the market.
After a member’s witty reply on another thread, I said to my self, why not just get rid of the ceramic matrix that’s in there to free up the exhaust a little?
Three hour project for both side.
I haven’t met another 718 GT4/S/Sypder owner in the area with OAPs so I can’t give you a first person impression on sound note, but I’d bet it’s close to the other GPF delete OAPs.
Cost me $9.99 because I drank a handle of beers 🍻
Your mileage may vary: For OFF-ROAD USE ONLY, blah blah blah.
You sir, are a genius!!!
Are you in H-town? If so, I would love to hear this!
Took it for an longer drive, the news is good, the news is real good.
It’s not obnoxiously loud but definitely adds a moderate level of volume and tone above 3500rpm. There’s a little bit of drone from 2000- 2200rpm if you just let it lug around in 6th gear and 60mph.
Can definitely hear more of the exhaust pop and crackles when down shifting and when lifting off with intent.
I like it. I’ll most likely run this until more Dundon / JCR Dyno plots are available.
Unfortunately I don’t have any thing other than an iPhone to record sound clips for you guys, but here’s a cold start if it’s worth anything.
Nice! The drone you mention is that with the valves open or closed (not sure if you plugged the vacuum lines or not). You will need to name this procedure, like any trail blazing surgeon LOL.
12-15-2020, 06:38 PM
Dummy GPF Delete OAP DIY “Big Genitalia Mod”
