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Oops. Wish I had read this before ordering my stainless steel versions. You're right, I would imagine the black oxide holds the actual shaft better. Hopefully mine do not fall off or slip.
Here is a picture of my Black Oxide Collars I just took (10/19/2023) - just went out and stuck my phone under the car and snapped a pic. They have been on the car for over 9K miles...
You can see all the dirt just like the surrounding exhaust components, yet only a little surface corrosion. No slipping, or any issues.
I haven’t had time to try this yet, but you’re welcome to be the Guinea Pig 😝
Find a metric coupling nut to replace the canister nut, then add a large head bolt to the bottom of the nut and hopefully it will catch the arm of the rod mechanism and “stop” it.
In theory, it would be adjustable with the bolt’s locking nut…
I don’t know what the metric size is, hopefully there’s a coupling nut that will fit
Remove the canister nut and install the coupling nut to “catch” the upward swing of the arm and stop it.
Adjustable bolt and locking nut to control the amount of valve swing.
Does my explanation make sense?
Again, this is just an idea at this point, I don’t know if it will work or not.
Since the collar mod isn’t working for you, maybe you’ll want to play around with this idea.
I have gone forward with this option. I used a stainless steel coupling, 12 mm in length, and instead of a hex head bolt, I used a stainless steel knurled head thumb screw with a large head, making adjustment very easy. I had a difficult time removing the carbon steel collars that I installed about a year ago. This option is easily removable.
Here is a picture of my Black Oxide Collars I just took (10/19/2023) - just went out and stuck my phone under the car and snapped a pic. They have been on the car for over 9K miles...
You can see all the dirt just like the surrounding exhaust components, yet only a little surface corrosion. No slipping, or any issues.
Black Oxide Collar - 9K+ Miles
Pics of the installed rod coupling method in lieu of collar mod.
Can you show a picture with the valve actuated (by hand is OK). This may be another easy solution that provides adjustability. Good Deal!
👍
Yes, I will do that this weekend and post. I used the large head thumb screw to have greater contact with the actuator arm than a hex head bolt provides.
Yes, I put the collar as far away from the valve body as I could (there's no common language for up or down LOL). On the Kline system this is as far as I could go, as I didn't want it open very much and I can assure you that tiny crak in the photo makes a big difference. I'm really thrilled with the results, the transition to open / close at 1800 rpm is almost gone, and there's still a bit of a change in tone up top when you're getting after it but I'm fine with that.
This post is super helpful and your video sounded awesome! WOW! I ordered a Kline from Supreme Power and should have in a a few more weeks. Trying to avoid using a valve controller if possible so I will try the collars just like this. Are these the same size collars as on the stock exhaust?
This post is super helpful and your video sounded awesome! WOW! I ordered a Kline from Supreme Power and should have in a a few more weeks. Trying to avoid using a valve controller if possible so I will try the collars just like this. Are these the same size collars as on the stock exhaust?
I’m glad it was helpful! I’m very happy with that mod, and I just don’t hear the valves open and close below 5000 rpm anymore. Yes, same diameter as stock and in fact those are 1/4” collars which I was worried wouldn’t work but they did (I think 6mm is the diameter).
I have gone forward with this option. I used a stainless steel coupling, 12 mm in length, and instead of a hex head bolt, I used a stainless steel knurled head thumb screw with a large head, making adjustment very easy. I had a difficult time removing the carbon steel collars that I installed about a year ago. This option is easily removable.
Very cool… 😎
Glad to see that this worked.
I never tried it because I ended up going with Rick DeMan’s flash for sport exhaust button control of the valves when he did the re-gear (not cheap and the jury’s still out on whether I like it).
Your knurled thumb screw idea was a nice improvement too 👍
I used the 6mm collars on my CGTS 4.0. For anyone considering it, here's my review. Two thumbs up. It's not too loud or harsh or droney. My car is a weekend toy, mostly. So, maybe I would eventually feel differently if I had to drive it every day but I doubt it. IMO, this is a great and cheap solution if you want to hear more character from the car.
Possibly you did not tighten the screws enough or left any packaging/storage lube on the screws before installation? I have not experience any movement or loosening of my collars (~9K miles), yet I used the Black Oxide versions as they grip the shafts better.
Possibly some blue Loctite if you need a little extra reassurance.
correction:-
The car became quieter esp inside indoor carpark hence I assumed collar(s) fell off.
I climbed under the rear yesterday planning to put on some spare collars only to find all 4 collars still in place.
If no one else here had found the volume with collars reduce over time then I better get another hearing test (had one done when I just got the car thinking I had hearing loss when the exhaust vol seemed lower then the base 718's)
correction:-
The car became quieter esp inside indoor carpark hence I assumed collar(s) fell off.
I climbed under the rear yesterday planning to put on some spare collars only to find all 4 collars still in place.
If no one else here had found the volume with collars reduce over time then I better get another hearing test (had one done when I just got the car thinking I had hearing loss when the exhaust vol seemed lower then the base 718's)
Collars might have slipped down, versus fallen off. Have you measured there location? I suspect they have simply slipped down on the shaft, thus closing the valves more then you desire.
I'm not sure why you are using multiple collars. You really only need one on each shaft, adjusted to the desired position. I suggest that you remove them, clean them and reinstall. Use some blue Loctite on the screws if you wish. Mine measure 18mm from the bottom of the collar to the actuator mounting plate.
Make sure the collars have both the correct ID and OD so they don't hit the actuator mounting bolts.
Simple and cheap. Easy to mount or remove in a few moments without any help. No fiddling.
First of all, I would like to apologize for my simple English. It is not my native language. Have I found the „Egg of Columbus" here? I call it the „Yachting Solution“ because the part comes from the yacht accessories trade. A simple rope clamp, a so-called rope stopper with one screw for about 10 dollars the pair in stainless steel. It made a proper sound on my Spyder 718 2023, as it prevents the flaps from closing completely by an estimated 50 percent if it is mounted like in my case. However, it can also be fitted in a way to close up to 100 percent. The cable stopper with its outer diameter of 20 millimeters does not touch the three screws, but is stopped by the screw nuts. I cleaned the burr of the thread in the slot before mounting with a flat file and applied a drop of Loctite afterwards to be on the safe side.
I just installed yesterday with it all the way down and tried to create an always open mode.
However, at around 2000-3500 rpm the exhaust note still muffled like what OEM originally does.
Wondering if that happens to other members here?
I just installed yesterday with it all the way down and tried to create an always open mode.
However, at around 2000-3500 rpm the exhaust note still muffled like what OEM originally does.
Wondering if that happens to other members here?
when you say all the way down do you mean tight to the valve body? If so, unless they’re not tight you’re hearing something else (cylinder deactivation maybe?)
Sorry I should say all the way up like creating no movement for the rod (ie: no room for the rod to travel)
And the 2000 rpm I mentioned is when I was doing probably 30 km/hr (19mph) so cylinder deactivation probably not engaged yet
10-19-2023, 12:51 PM
