GT Car Alignment Specs - Share your set-up / knowledge
#166
#167
Rennlist Member
BGB, who's set up a few of these chassis , recommends 1mm/side OUT on the front and 2mm/side IN for the rear and that jives pretty close to how I set up my 986 and 981 over the years. I also like .5 more camber in the front than the rear on this chassis so my target will be -2.0 front and -1.5 rear camber. I may go up to -1.8 rear but I like the car a tad loose so -1.5 is usually a good aggressive street setup.
#168
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
BGB, who's set up a few of these chassis , recommends 1mm/side OUT on the front and 2mm/side IN for the rear and that jives pretty close to how I set up my 986 and 981 over the years. I also like .5 more camber in the front than the rear on this chassis so my target will be -2.0 front and -1.5 rear camber. I may go up to -1.8 rear but I like the car a tad loose so -1.5 is usually a good aggressive street setup.
#169
#170
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
These settings were based on what BGB suggested in a different thread and my local suspension specialist.
#172
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This was the first thing I noticed, more (better) initial turn in then stock, a very predictable response to steering input, I am very happy with it.
#174
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#175
I have -2° front camber (16mm shims for each side) and 0 toe. Rear is -1°30' and +1.5mm each side. It feels good but turn in not so responsive versus stock and sometimes I feel understeer or front axle being "light", maybe there is too much caster (more than +10° with all those shims) or front tires over-inflated. Sway bars middle/middle.
I might try -1.5mm or -2mm total front toe and play with sway bars.
I might try -1.5mm or -2mm total front toe and play with sway bars.
Last edited by SpyderLegend; 02-26-2021 at 03:16 PM.
#176
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have -2° front camber (16mm shims for each side) and 0 toe. Rear is -1°30' and +1.5mm each side. It feels good but turn in not so responsive versus stock and sometimes I feel understeer or front axle being "light", maybe there is too much caster (more than +10° with all those shims) or front tires over-inflated. Sway bars middle/middle. I might try -1.5mm or -2mm total front toe and play with sway bars.
The sway bars on mine are set middle/middle and here is the current alignment spec with the RSS suspension upgrade shown back at post #106: GT4 Alignment Specs - Share your set-up / knowledge - Page 8 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
#177
You have a very low caster at +8.7°, stock was +9.5° on mine and now is +10.1°... dunno what is better but they should behave very differently just for this reason.
At +8.7° your front wheels should be pushed back, mine are pushed forward from the center. Could you take a picture? This is mine at +10°
At +8.7° your front wheels should be pushed back, mine are pushed forward from the center. Could you take a picture? This is mine at +10°
Last edited by SpyderLegend; 02-26-2021 at 03:46 PM.
#178
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Am I misreading the chart, the range as specified for the 718 GT4/Spyder being = +7.8-8.8 degrees ?
#179
Check my last message with picture...
I cannot answer at your question... maybe different machines read different caster. I am sure mine was +9.5° stock, with wheel in the center. Now at +10.1° is pushed forward. Instead of checking the value I would check the wheel in the fender.
I cannot answer at your question... maybe different machines read different caster. I am sure mine was +9.5° stock, with wheel in the center. Now at +10.1° is pushed forward. Instead of checking the value I would check the wheel in the fender.
#180
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Check my last message with picture...
I cannot answer at your question... maybe different machines read different caster. I am sure mine was +9.5° stock, with wheel in the center. Now at +10.1° is pushed forward. Instead of checking the value I would check the wheel in the fender.
I cannot answer at your question... maybe different machines read different caster. I am sure mine was +9.5° stock, with wheel in the center. Now at +10.1° is pushed forward. Instead of checking the value I would check the wheel in the fender.