Everything that you see here except we did not use an Inner Spherical bearing for the LCA in the rear, we had enough adjustment with the OEM fitting, Camber: -2.4 front, -2.2 rear


RSS Stage 2 for GT4

 

How does it feel compared to stock, is it noticeable? On the road...

 

I have not noticed it on the street in the slightest bit but the difference is very noticeable on track. There is far less understeer in medium to slow speed corners and the car really wants to rotate, especially on under trail braking. the latter caught me off guard and took some getting used to but I really like the way it feels now.

 

What is your front toe set to?

 

front toe is at zero. rear toe is slightly in (.19 left and .15 right). Car feels very planted under breaking with no steering input (straight line).

 

Curious about thoughts from knowledgeable members on my initial alignment plan (provided by DSC Sport) for 718 GT4 PDK - 50:50 Track:Road use.
I will be starting with the factory 20" wheels and tires (19" wheels w/255 or 265 front tires remain future option).

Hardware: DSC + TPC GT4 offset rear toe links + Tarret Race Design Camber Plates

Alignment Settings: Stock ride height, Sway bar: full soft front, full stiff rear;
Front: -2.5 deg camber (Use shims at LCA for the bulk of the camber adjustment. Then use camber plates for small adjustments). Zero front toe
Rear: -2.0 deg camber (factory eccentric position, add lower control arm shims), +2.0mm (.078”) rear toe per side (factory eccentric position, adjust toe links).

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

For -2.5 front I would use the camber plates for the bulk of the adjustment.....when you use the shims you could end up with the caster way off but by doing -2.5 you could get away with shims only. Zero front toe sounds good.
Rear also looks good by keeping the 0.5 degree difference between front and rear. I actually used 3 mm total on the rear with the TPC toe links.

 

jmartpr- I appreciate your comments. I thought the Tarett camber plates would eliminate the potential caster issue from the increased negative camber. Additionally, do you think I will have any concern over 4mm total on the rear with the TPC toe links, or should I only use 3mm total as you had done?

 

I initially got all my front negative camber from shims which created caster issues but corrected that by adding camber plates. I was running -3 F and -2.5 R camber. Per TPC, 2mm per side rear toe using their toe links.

 

Yes....the camber plates will correct some of the caster, but I would still add the bulk of the camber using the plates instead of the shims. 1 mm rear extra toe shouldn't be a problem, 3 o 4 mm should be OK.

 

i have pretty much the same alignment and am also using the TPC offset toe links and the DSC Sport. I only used shims, but also added RSS caster pucks to address the front wheels shifting forward.
The combo is great on track (still quite good on the street too). I had a bit more understeer than I wanted but I neglected to put the rear sway bar to full stiff.

 

-3 camber in the front sounds more like a 100% track alignment setting rather than a 50/50 street/track split alignment

 

I try not to bitch as much in my old(er) age but i have never had a car where the alignment was the first thing i wanted to change. I have been on the pad once. I am going on the pad again. It's terrible on crowned one lane roads and awful in the wet on them. It's better on the highway and the road with my front toe change but still...i am NOT happy. More to report shortly.

 

Thanks for all the good information here. I have some 19 inch track wheels coming.

19x9 +55
19x11 +45

I plan to use 255/35/19 front and 305/30/19. Both tires will be smaller diameter than OEM. Only brand is Cup 2.

I want to maximize alignment settings but adding shims only (car still under warranty). From what I read the max camber is ~2 degree negative camber in the front and maybe ~1.3 in the rear? Is that correct?
I will keep the front/rear offset to be 0.5 degree only.

What if I lower the car alittle bit?

 

You can get at least -3.0 F with shims and I got -2.5 R with shims. The issue with being restricted to stock parts is the rear toe link. You need at least 2 mm per side rear toe for stability under braking and some have had issues with aftermarket wheels. . I experimented with lowering but my goal was to retain the factory rake with the tire diameters I choose.