SOUL | 718 GT4/Spyder Exhaust Development
12-04-2020, 12:14 PM
#481
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I know that we are not all in search of the same thing but as this is my 5th 6-cylinder NA Porsche I have a bit of experience with the various engine sizes and their sounds, this 4.0l is not at all like the rest but for me its sound doesn't match it character either.
I personally think it needs some work, GPF delete, slip-on, X-pipe and the list goes on, there will be something for everybody and even those who say it needs nothing at all, it is great to have a choice!
I wish I could record what I hear when I drive, no not just the places where the engine is wailing, there are times that the valves need to be closed and others where they should be open, and I don't just mean according to factory programming either. On the back roads and wailing through the gears, probably always open, cruising along the boulevard past the shops, definitely closed etc.
I think with the right combinations we can all get there and there is no 'one-setup' that will satisfy everyone.
I personally think it needs some work, GPF delete, slip-on, X-pipe and the list goes on, there will be something for everybody and even those who say it needs nothing at all, it is great to have a choice!
I wish I could record what I hear when I drive, no not just the places where the engine is wailing, there are times that the valves need to be closed and others where they should be open, and I don't just mean according to factory programming either. On the back roads and wailing through the gears, probably always open, cruising along the boulevard past the shops, definitely closed etc.
I think with the right combinations we can all get there and there is no 'one-setup' that will satisfy everyone.
12-04-2020, 12:17 PM
#482
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Haha...I get tired of same. Give it time, people will be chasing that great 4.0 sound!
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UncleDude (12-04-2020)
12-04-2020, 12:26 PM
#483
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First, the easy response to “is some more worth having” — for me NO, I’m super satisfied with where the car now is.
I did consider a controller, but I decided to incrementally approach this project. I won’t be getting a controller. Here is how I’d divide my TX Hill Country driving and why it doesn’t make sense for me.
1) Transit/casual. This is around town and highway/interstate driving with speeds up to around 90 MPH...this is TX lol. These environments all occur at below 3700 RPM. I’m happy to have the valves closed during this. Now with the GPF pipe, little more growl which is fine. OBTW, I drive with PSE on *** off every start up. Not an issue for me with *** off, but you’d never want to hear 3 cylinder mode with GPF delete and valves open...so something to consider if you’re an *** on type...so to speak lolz. Finally I’ve read that some that have hard wired valves open experience drone in these RPM regimes.
2) “Canyon carving”. Most of this is PDK manual mode and above 3700. So glorious.
Lastly, while some bemoan the transition as unacceptable; I’m more like meh...it doesn’t bother me. Before or after pipe install.
Sound and volume. Volume is easy, turn it up to 11...haha! Based on the online videos I wasn’t expecting such a large shift. Frankly some before/after are hard to discern if the expense is worth it. Anyway to me, I find it significant.
OK, now on to the hard part...sound. The easy analogy is when wearing NC headphones/muffs and taking them off; increase and depth of frequencies.
My experience is with a 3.4 PSE Spyder; yes this is completely different. I’d describe the 3.4 as sonorous and above 6000 starting to howl to RL all at a higher monotone pitch. Frankly I loved it...believe the 3.8 was similar.
This 4.0 is different. Perhaps some is induction noise. There is more going on. When it gets going it’s more guttural if that makes sense. The GPF pipes won’t change the characteristics, just unmuffle what’s there.
I’ve read where folks are chasing “that flat 6 sound”; perhaps better stated would be that 3.4/3.8 PSE sound. That’s not for me; I’m not backward looking like that. I’ll celebrate the 4.0!
Lastly, maybe wishful thinking but feel more thrust now uncorked. Rear has stepped out a couple of times...that never happened before. Same temps 70s and throttle commands...I dunno.
Bottomline, I’d recommend getting the GPF and go from there. Many, including John from Soul say best bang for the buck—I agree.
Hope this helps.
Shaggy
I did consider a controller, but I decided to incrementally approach this project. I won’t be getting a controller. Here is how I’d divide my TX Hill Country driving and why it doesn’t make sense for me.
1) Transit/casual. This is around town and highway/interstate driving with speeds up to around 90 MPH...this is TX lol. These environments all occur at below 3700 RPM. I’m happy to have the valves closed during this. Now with the GPF pipe, little more growl which is fine. OBTW, I drive with PSE on *** off every start up. Not an issue for me with *** off, but you’d never want to hear 3 cylinder mode with GPF delete and valves open...so something to consider if you’re an *** on type...so to speak lolz. Finally I’ve read that some that have hard wired valves open experience drone in these RPM regimes.
2) “Canyon carving”. Most of this is PDK manual mode and above 3700. So glorious.
Lastly, while some bemoan the transition as unacceptable; I’m more like meh...it doesn’t bother me. Before or after pipe install.
Sound and volume. Volume is easy, turn it up to 11...haha! Based on the online videos I wasn’t expecting such a large shift. Frankly some before/after are hard to discern if the expense is worth it. Anyway to me, I find it significant.
OK, now on to the hard part...sound. The easy analogy is when wearing NC headphones/muffs and taking them off; increase and depth of frequencies.
My experience is with a 3.4 PSE Spyder; yes this is completely different. I’d describe the 3.4 as sonorous and above 6000 starting to howl to RL all at a higher monotone pitch. Frankly I loved it...believe the 3.8 was similar.
This 4.0 is different. Perhaps some is induction noise. There is more going on. When it gets going it’s more guttural if that makes sense. The GPF pipes won’t change the characteristics, just unmuffle what’s there.
I’ve read where folks are chasing “that flat 6 sound”; perhaps better stated would be that 3.4/3.8 PSE sound. That’s not for me; I’m not backward looking like that. I’ll celebrate the 4.0!
Lastly, maybe wishful thinking but feel more thrust now uncorked. Rear has stepped out a couple of times...that never happened before. Same temps 70s and throttle commands...I dunno.
Bottomline, I’d recommend getting the GPF and go from there. Many, including John from Soul say best bang for the buck—I agree.
Hope this helps.
Shaggy
I understand the comments about the sound above 4000 RPM, the valves are open and the engine is singing, the song is great but IMHO it is coloured by the GPF and rear section, changing either of these or both makes a big difference, I doubt I will ever change the actual headers but that would bring an entirely new character out of the engine, and by this I mean the 4.0l sound it already has as I have no need to make it sound like any previous engine Porsche has offered.
I already have the Cargraphic controller installed, I want the ability to follow the factory valve profile for cruising but also want to be able to go all in for sound on the track or the back roads too, the controller gives you both worlds.
I am quietly working through my combination and will soon throw my 2 cents into the mix, my friends claim I have gone off the deep end with the Spyder and I think my wife agrees but never have I had such a capable platform to play with with such intoxicating looks, it is impossible to resist adding that personal touch!
12-04-2020, 02:52 PM
#484
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12-04-2020, 03:07 PM
#485
12-04-2020, 03:38 PM
#486
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Do you have a valve controller, the valves unplugged, or held open? I held my valves open with copper wire after having the mid pipe on for a month, and that is when I noticed a huge improvement. The stock valve programming is what kills it to me. I wish there was something that would all the PSE button to be able to force the valves open all the time if you press it, and if it isn't pressed then have stock valve closed programming.
12-04-2020, 03:40 PM
#487
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Do you have a valve controller, the valves unplugged, or held open? I held my valves open with copper wire after having the mid pipe on for a month, and that is when I noticed a huge improvement. The stock valve programming is what kills it to me. I wish there was something that would all the PSE button to be able to force the valves open all the time if you press it, and if it isn't pressed then have stock valve closed programming.
Regards,
John
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SOUL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS
Quality Exhaust Solutions, Fair Pricing, and Outstanding Service
John Gaydos- Owner, Performance Specialist
Cell - (484) 883-6197
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SOUL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS
Quality Exhaust Solutions, Fair Pricing, and Outstanding Service
John Gaydos- Owner, Performance Specialist
Cell - (484) 883-6197
johng@soulpp.com
Jon Wheel - Marketing Manager
jwheel@soulpp.com
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CDACH (12-04-2020)
12-04-2020, 03:40 PM
#488
Do you have a valve controller, the valves unplugged, or held open? I held my valves open with copper wire after having the mid pipe on for a month, and that is when I noticed a huge improvement. The stock valve programming is what kills it to me. I wish there was something that would all the PSE button to be able to force the valves open all the time if you press it, and if it isn't pressed then have stock valve closed programming.
So, bottom line, it's pretty much useless, just to have PSE sound at close to idle.
12-04-2020, 04:00 PM
#489
I have all 3 Homelink programmed, so does the Soul valve controller with Homelink use not wipe out existing programmed buttons?
12-04-2020, 04:43 PM
#490
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12-04-2020, 04:45 PM
#491
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You can use the included Key Fob, or you can sync the key fob buttons with the Homelink buttons so you don't have to use the key fob. Whatever floats your boat haha.
12-04-2020, 06:07 PM
#492
The issue is that in essence with the OEM PSE, the difference on valve actuation is pretty much from idle to 1800RPM, and maybe from ~4000 to 5000. You will see that even with PSE OFF, the valves open after almost 5000 RPM and if you press PSE at WOT it doesnt make any difference.
So, bottom line, it's pretty much useless, just to have PSE sound at close to idle.
So, bottom line, it's pretty much useless, just to have PSE sound at close to idle.
What I want and maybe I'm asking too much, LOL! I don't want a fob or anything else, but I may have to go that route.
PSE off = stock (valves closed until 4k to 5k RPM) when I want it quieter
PSE on = valves always open for when I want it louder
12-05-2020, 05:28 PM
#493
Instructor
There's no way currently to do what you want. The best you can do is install one of the valve controllers that will give you control via a key fob, or you can use the key fob to program a couple of your garage door opener buttons.
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Elijaih (12-05-2020)
12-06-2020, 10:07 AM
#494
Burning Brakes
Hey John and Mike!
i noticed the exhaust tips on the website. Great!!
I noticed on the drop down I don't see the single wall. Are you doing the double wall first?
Mike
i noticed the exhaust tips on the website. Great!!
I noticed on the drop down I don't see the single wall. Are you doing the double wall first?
Mike
12-07-2020, 03:47 PM
#495
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