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I just posted up a thread in the 992 sub-forum on this, specifically. If I can't find anyone that's reasonably local, I'll start looking into unreasonably local and ship a car out here if we have to.
I've probably got a list of two dozen current owners or those with orders on the way. Might be another group buy opportunity.
Nick..I would definitely be interested in a group buy...My Carrera T should be here around June 1....let me knowThanks
@12v Nick A fast question – my ears are not so sound sensitive as some people here, I don't here subtle sound differences. I appreciate good sounding headphones, but for example, my AirPods Max (the big one) are more then enough to listen to music at home and I would probably not hear a big difference between them and really pro headset. On the other hand, what I really dislike in my 911 is the road noise. I love the engine sound, but I would love to make the road noise gone. In such a case, would the Acoustic Treatment for Doors make a difference to me? If yes, would you recommend only this, or also some stage?
@12v Nick A fast question – my ears are not so sound sensitive as some people here, I don't here subtle sound differences. I appreciate good sounding headphones, but for example, my AirPods Max (the big one) are more then enough to listen to music at home and I would probably not hear a big difference between them and really pro headset. On the other hand, what I really dislike in my 911 is the road noise. I love the engine sound, but I would love to make the road noise gone. In such a case, would the Acoustic Treatment for Doors make a difference to me? If yes, would you recommend only this, or also some stage?
We're never going to get rid of the road noise in a 911, but we can certainly take some steps to suppress the amount of noise we end up hearing in the driver's seat.
Sound damping is a great way to do this if you're not worried about adding a few pounds to the car. Doing a proper acoustic treatment of the doors will yield an additional 3-6lb per door and the floorboard would add around 15-25lb total. This has to be done strategically to net the right results, but you can expect roughly a 10-15% drop in ambient noise level with all of that done. I would recommend working with a local pro or doing a lot of research before taking on the DIY project.
As for the soundsystem upgrade, I would only recommend that for you if your grip with the road noise is that it competes too much the music. That can certainly happen when you have inadequate power, so replacing the amplifier would be a worthwhile improvement. In that even, Stage Two would be the perfect place to start.
Curious more than anything else, was there no way to keep the existing tweeter housing and pull out the tweeter so that if you wanted to go back to stock you could just put the original tweeter back into the original housing vs buying another one? Looks like it is held in by metal clips, or in fact would the tweeter and housing have to be pulled out from the bottom (which looks damn near impossible). I assume the latter?
Curious more than anything else, was there no way to keep the existing tweeter housing and pull out the tweeter so that if you wanted to go back to stock you could just put the original tweeter back into the original housing vs buying another one? Looks like it is held in by metal clips, or in fact would the tweeter and housing have to be pulled out from the bottom (which looks damn near impossible). I assume the latter?
We have a part that allows you to go back to factory. It's a plate that mounts with the same style rubber mounts as our kit, but has a provision for the OEM tweeter. I'll try to find some so I can snap a photo for you.
We have a part that allows you to go back to factory. It's a plate that mounts with the same style rubber mounts as our kit, but has a provision for the OEM tweeter. I'll try to find some so I can snap a photo for you.
Saw that, was really more curious as to whether the existing tweeter could have simply been removed via those metal clips and then a new tweeter dropped in as opposed to cutting up the clips on the dash to get the housing out. But reading it, maybe it was primarily because the new tweeter you're using is larger? Is it 27mm vs 25mm (and possibly depth or whatever) the main reason the existing mount/bracket couldn't have been salvaged?
Saw that, was really more curious as to whether the existing tweeter could have simply been removed via those metal clips and then a new tweeter dropped in as opposed to cutting up the clips on the dash to get the housing out. But reading it, maybe it was primarily because the new tweeter you're using is larger? Is it 27mm vs 25mm (and possibly depth or whatever) the main reason the existing mount/bracket couldn't have been salvaged?
The factory Bose tweeter is actually only 19mm as compared to the new 28mm tweeters we use. The body of the new tweeter is slightly too large to fit inside the metal clips. That said, those metal tabs are just a poor way to mount a quality component. The provisions that we use are exactly what one would see in a Burmester-equipped 992. Those OEM Bose mounting plates are designed to be removed for a larger/better speaker.
The factory Bose tweeter is actually only 19mm as compared to the new 28mm tweeters we use. The body of the new tweeter is slightly too large to fit inside the metal clips. That said, those metal tabs are just a poor way to mount a quality component. The provisions that we use are exactly what one would see in a Burmester-equipped 992. Those OEM Bose mounting plates are designed to be removed for a larger/better speaker.
Will there be any interior noise reduction with the door sound deadening kit?
I have Burmester and dealer has already addressed some door rattles. But I’d like to reduce interior noise a bit. Guessing wheelwells need to be addressed like most cars.
04-13-2023, 01:59 PM
