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Yep! That's the one. Too bad the yard is in Texas so I can't peek under the hood. Tub is definitely shifted and the frame rail damaged. With all those airbags deploying including the seats for a front corner, it must have been hit pretty good.
That said, I purchased a really nice 987.2S with a light tap on the front i'm rebuilding right now.
I'm an hour south of that and going up this weekend. Maybe ill go check that one out. Not that i have the time, space, or money to restore it.
I had my windscreen replaced by Porsche (with a Porsche screen) and they had numerous issues - it had to be re-done 2 x.....
When i first received it home - the screen sat a little proud of the frame and the small rubber surround wouldn't fit flush. Porsche took the car back, and attempted to re install the screen. They broke it while removing it.
After ordering in a 2nd screen - they did the install and the same issue occurred .... (this time they didn't deliver it to me) and they weren't happy.
They contacted Porsche AG and was told there was an updated TSB/instruction of how to re install the screen. They pulled this screen out successfully this time - but the tech dropped it when they were storing the screen............... Anyway - after the 3rd new screen arrived and the correct procedure followed - it fit perfect.....
Moral of the story - make sure you have the right instructions to flush mount the screen! If Porsche fu*ked it up twice..
Thanks for the warning Simon. This will definitely go to the dealer for the install. They did my other Spyder one ok. Hopefully the installer hasn’t retired. It may sound silly but there seems to be a lot of people downshifting.
As for the screen frame, I did what I was told I.e. use a razor blade to trim the old urethane back but don’t try to remove it as the new one will adhere better to that than paint.
The last seat belt arrived. This is the left one. There was a minor hiccup finding that. The belts have the usual different part number between right and left but the suffix is also different. It has to be right. This belt is ~ Six years old.
Nice job on the windshield! Especially for a first time, that's phenomenal work. I get so nervous even after doing it several times. Good call on the dash too!
Originally Posted by Baoluan
I'm an hour south of that and going up this weekend. Maybe ill go check that one out. Not that i have the time, space, or money to restore it.
It will be sold by then and it's already at $24,500 so debatable whether it's worth it anyway. If I had to guess, it'll go overseas somewhere where it'll be repaired in a questionable manner on the cheap and sold as a clean car. VINs are seen much more as "private" data in many other countries so obtaining info about a car is difficult and seen as an invasion of privacy. It's ridiculous, but as a result I think things can be sold off without as much scrutiny. Just because the data is available for it's time in the US, some may not even bother looking.
Nice job on the windshield! Especially for a first time, that's phenomenal work. I get so nervous even after doing it several times. Good call on the dash too!
It will be sold by then and it's already at $24,500 so debatable whether it's worth it anyway. If I had to guess, it'll go overseas somewhere where it'll be repaired in a questionable manner on the cheap and sold as a clean car. VINs are seen much more as "private" data in many other countries so obtaining info about a car is difficult and seen as an invasion of privacy. It's ridiculous, but as a result I think things can be sold off without as much scrutiny. Just because the data is available for it's time in the US, some may not even bother looking.
Thanks. The R would make a good track car, if you could get away without replacing the bags etc.
Nice job on the windshield! Especially for a first time, that's phenomenal work. I get so nervous even after doing it several times. Good call on the dash too!
It will be sold by then and it's already at $24,500 so debatable whether it's worth it anyway. If I had to guess, it'll go overseas somewhere where it'll be repaired in a questionable manner on the cheap and sold as a clean car. VINs are seen much more as "private" data in many other countries so obtaining info about a car is difficult and seen as an invasion of privacy. It's ridiculous, but as a result I think things can be sold off without as much scrutiny. Just because the data is available for its time in the US, some may not even bother looking.
It's probably going to sell for about $30K, add in the sales tax, buyers fee and shipping it's going to be about $36K OTD I think. I would have been a bidder if they had pictures of the frunk opened up to see how much frunk work is needed. It's a rare color and if properly fixed probably be worth 50K seeing clean titles ones would sell for high 60s, that said, much of the value in a R is the collectability and a salvage title eliminates all the collectability. The difference between an R and a S is pretty small, so those looking for a bargain will just buy an S. If it was a manual it would be a strong priced auction.
It's probably going to sell for about $30K, add in the sales tax, buyers fee and shipping it's going to be about $36K OTD I think. I would have been a bidder if they had pictures of the frunk opened up to see how much frunk work is needed. It's a rare color and if properly fixed probably be worth 50K seeing clean titles ones would sell for high 60s, that said, much of the value in a R is the collectability and a salvage title eliminates all the collectability. The difference between an R and a S is pretty small, so those looking for a bargain will just buy an S. If it was a manual it would be a strong priced auction.
I see it sold but no indication of the price. One thing I did note was the odometer reading at 66,000 miles. PDK cars seem to be used a lot more than manual and that requires servicing at ~ 55,000 miles. That could be an extra cost here if it hasn’t been done.
With the windscreen out, I have reached a pause point in the build.
There is still body work to do and it makes no sense to risk overspray on brand new parts.
Speaking of brand new parts, I have what seems like an enormous order, yet still find parts I had missed. I just know that the initial install is going to have a few f bomb moments.
It's probably going to sell for about $30K, add in the sales tax, buyers fee and shipping it's going to be about $36K OTD I think. I would have been a bidder if they had pictures of the frunk opened up to see how much frunk work is needed. It's a rare color and if properly fixed probably be worth 50K seeing clean titles ones would sell for high 60s, that said, much of the value in a R is the collectability and a salvage title eliminates all the collectability. The difference between an R and a S is pretty small, so those looking for a bargain will just buy an S. If it was a manual it would be a strong priced auction.
I missed the live auction, so didn't see the final sale price either.
From a performance standpoint you're correct, but cosmetically not so much. People often say the differences between an S and an R are small, but that's just not true. I owned an S and an R simultaneously for over 2 years and it would be an exhausting task to try to make an R from an S... there are a TON of small little differences everywhere on the car.
The Spyder rear view mirror should have been easy.
Grip the mirror body with protected pliers or similar, rotate 90 degrees counter clockwise, remove the mirror body to reveal the base, apply heat to the base and release it from the windscreen.
Here is how it actually went down.
Grip the mirror body with masking tape protected vice grips. Have the grip slip and leave marks on the body without releasing the base. Lose.
Increase the pressure on the body and the windscreen glass gives way (it was already broken), giving a nasty mess of glass attached to the base. Unfortunately the mirror also releases from the ball joint. Lose
Apply heat to the jagged glass and eventually it releases from the base, but the base is still connected to the mirror body. Lose.
Superglue the base to a piece of aluminium. It releases but now the base is glued to the aluminium. Lose.
Bathe the base in acetone to release the superglue. Win.
Try to get the mirror ball joint back in. No luck. Lose.
Watch a video and learn that the ball joint is held in by a metal ring. Remove the ring, insert the ball and reinstall the ring. Touch up the base scratches. Win with some battle scars.
BTW I had a spare mirror but it doesn’t have a 987 part number, albeit is identical. That was plan B.
06-26-2023, 08:35 PM
