I did mine because it had let me down on grid before and the car was apart and I was rewiring it anyway. Turns out, this mod only took about an extra 40 minutes, saved me about 3-4 lbs (remember , my car is nearly 100lbs over) and replaced a $20 switch that can fail with a $10 switch this is not likely to fail. Would have I don't it if I wasn't rewiring? Maybe not

 

That Lisle 56500 works (barely) for removing the fuse pins from the rear. I've got a bout 20 fuses left (could probably drop a few still). I started removing some the pins, in order to reroute the fuse panel, but using that tools is a giant PITA. Of the few pins that I removed, I'm worried that I've over-stressed the connections, so now I'm going to use an aftermarket fuse panel instead and drop the 20 leftover fuses into it. Any recommendations on a generic fuse panel, like a pair of these Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks? I'd like to use the same fuses to keep it easy if possible.

 

The Blue Sea blocks are what I used for my build. Used a 6 block for permanent 12v, 12 block for switched 12v. Work out what load you will be pulling and run the correct number of power leads from the distribution panel, otherwise you might blow the fusible links.

I relocated them to behind the airbag panel.

 

These Blue blocks are like 100A max. Can I simply add my remaining fuses from the stock box and put any combination in here that's less than 100A?

What about the power wire, it seems the stock panel has only a few fuses per power wire? I'm not sure what gauge power wire to run here, though I've seen some charts online that define number or amps to gauge size.

 

So looking at my remaining fuses, I have 15 total. I think I'll want to run (2) 6-fuse blocks and (1) 10-fuse block, each of which a 100A max, then I allocated accordingly and I'll have a few empty fuses left for accessories later. In the Porsche wiring diagram, I found the ratings for each of the power wires coming out of the power block which will be a good reference.

 

I used 2 small 4-fuse and 2 small 6-fuse blocks. 2 are constant power re-using wires from the power block in the passenger foootwell and 2 are switched using power wires from the back of the ignition switch. If you re-use stock power wires and balance the draw across the blocks you should have adequate gauge. Also, an extra tip - replace the ignition switch while you have the dash apart. Mine started to act up shortly after I got the dash back together and it was far more difficult to access with dash and seat in place. Good Luck.

 

Here's my build workbook, with a price/work list and all of my wiring notes/remaining fuses/relocated fuses to marine blocks mapping/remaining relays.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

 

There's a set of used sway bars, $400 shipped. Is this what I need? Any thoughts about buying used sway bars?

Front: 996.343.701.21
Rear: 996.333.701.26

 

I'm pretty much done with wiring, except for the kill switch and eventual transponder and cool suit. What are the best practices for the tangled web of wires that will live under the dash? Should I try to make bundles of wires wrapped in electrical tape where possible to keep them safe from rubbing, vibrations, etc.?

 

I'll be interested in feedback on this one as well. I may throw mine in a fire blanket using zip
ties for the moment but that's no permanent answer.

 

I was very happy with this spiral cut tubing ... works much better than the split corrugated style.

http://www.wiringdepot.com/store/c/1...ut-Tubing.aspx

I purchased mine at Ax Man Surplus. I also believe that Grainger's sells it. Actual wrapping was not that bad ... I started at my fuse box and identified the wires going to the rear and wrapped them and the rest just fell together.

 

I'm using 3M friction tape on everything, sticks well to itself but does not leave residue on the wires.

 

This. Also sometimes called grip tape.

This is what mine looked like after all taped up and cleaned up before the dash went back in