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Rear bumper screen done. I cut the hole a bit smaller than usual so I could offset the screen inward and keep the rivets off the front face of the bumper cover.
Here is a photo showing how I was able to fix the spoiler in the up position while driving and down while transporting. I removed the entire actuator mechanism and simply drilled a hole through the center of the strut through which I insert a hair-pin clip (the photo is showing a dental pick through the hole). I also removed the aluminum actuator support plate and don't feel that doing so compromises strength.
Getting to the front bumper. Center radiator in place, still need to do the plumbing. Regarding side radiators, I'm reading lots of cars running without fans. Is that still the prevailing wisdom? And should I vent the wheel liner for more brake cooling too?
Getting to the front bumper. Center radiator in place, still need to do the plumbing. Regarding side radiators, I'm reading lots of cars running without fans. Is that still the prevailing wisdom? And should I vent the wheel liner for more brake cooling too?
Thanks mjj for sharing those spoiler pics.
Radiator fans are not needed. Extra weight that does nothing for you. Obviously you can't leave the car idling I pit lane for an extended period, but it's a race car and not intended for that.
These look like a good deal for drop links all the way around. Would these be a good choice for my SPB? I'm not getting into suspension until next year likely, but I'm always on the hunt for a deal.
•Front drop links: modified stock (shortened for use with GT3 sway bar), Tarett Engineering #996FDLNK, or Tarett
Engineering GT3 “long” links #EXTFDLNK
• Rear drop links: stock or Tarett Engineering #996RDLNK
I am having a really hard time tightening the bolt on the underdrive pulley. I tightened it to spec, 37 foot pounds if I recall. Then, instructions say to turn another 90 degrees. But I've only got about 20 degrees, with a little red Loctite as well. I have a plastic and rubber strap wrench. But it's not holding it all and I can't get the bolt tighten anymore. Any suggestions?
The heater system in a Boxster is continuously flowing hot water. Because of this I was uncomfortable blocking the flow from these hoses. Instead I fabricated an elbow connector from 1/2" copper plumbing fittings that included a restrictor. The idea being to make sure that some water is always flowing. Maybe does nothing, maybe prevents hot spots from forming. Regardless, it was easy enough to do and I've not had any trouble.
The restrictor has an 8mm hole through the center.
Cut the hose coming from the bottom of the alternator area (the small blue arrow) so it will intersect with the water pump bypass hose (larger blue arrow) I use a generic $5 90 degree heater hose fitting from NAPA. I *might still have one to get you the part number from.
As suggested above? I don't block these off, I connect them so they will circulate the water exactly as the system was designed. All you are doing is eliminating the water running to the front for the heater core.
I'm starting on the wiring now and have started to unbundle and mark what I need to keep. As far as gauges and stuff - it looks like I've got three plugs on the back of the stock gauge cluster, hazard lights, plus headlights, plus steering wheel stalk for blinkers and wipers (both of which I'll keep functional). Is there anything else here that I would need from this area besides the crucial-obvious stuff like ignition?
03-13-2016, 11:00 AM
