Marc Jannone

Looking good indeed!

Dr911

Nice!

Andrew.M.Cox

I'm getting towards the end of round 1 wiring cleanup. The alarm unit is ready to relocate, and I only had to extend two wires - a ground and an orange wire. Regarding the stock fuse panel and relay panel (greatly downsized), should I keep them in the factory location near the drivers left? I see people moving these under the dash, why?

Andrew.M.Cox

Down to 8 wires. Shrink wrapped, in case I need to reconnect anything. I found this nice summary from another racer. I validated for myself in the wiring diagram.

I = blue
II = black

II/1, 2.5, Br. , Earth at GP7 (the big brown wire that bolts beside the box)
I/2, 0.35, Or/Bk, Diagnosis (the OBD plug)
I/3, 0.35, Bk/Rd, Signal transformer box (nearsteering column)
I/4, 0.35, Bk. , Signal transformer box
I/12, 0.35, Bk/Ye, Signal transformer box
I/16, 0.35, Or. , Fuse E1 (fuse box)
I/23, 0.50, Or/Wt, ECU term 88 "w" lead - diagnosis
I/36, 0.50, Bk/Br, Fuse B6 (fuse box)




After shrink wrapping, I made electrical tape bundles.

968workaholic

Moving the fuse box just gives you more room by your feet

sbeamish

Very good progress! Get to work so we can get a cage in it.

mmuller

Definitely move the fuse box and relays. The less around your feet the better I say

Here is what my car looked like right before I finished cleaning up the wiring. You can see there is much more room around the feet.

jlanka

Matt do you heel toe with your heel on that setup (as opposed to the side of the foot technique)

mmuller

Side of the foot. But I have giant feet

Andrew.M.Cox

Matt. Where do your wires run towards the back of the car now? I don't see anything down the left door. Also, I see you've got the original dash crossbar plus cage bar. I've heard of people removing the stock bar. Any thoughts there?

mmuller

My wiring harness is very customized. I started with the stock harness, removed everything not needed and then changed the paths the wires took so they made more sense for a dedicated race car. All wires running front to back run down the center tunnel on the passenger side. There are also no wires on the passenger rocker. Wires enter the trunk now on the passenger side of the car and I was able to remove one of the rear connector sets completely (yellow connector). I did this to remove all possible obstructions from the driver side and to simplify the entire system. I also have no key to start the car, once again to simplify the system and reduce points of failure.

Cage design to me is best left to cage designers, like Jay from JPC. The cage in my car was built by a cage builder who typically builds top fuel drag cars. As result it's both overbuilt and heavy. But my car is stiff and has easily survived a 4G impact with just sheet metal damage (drivers side). Personally, more bars are better!

Provost Motorsports

Correct me if I am wrong here....But all Boxsters have a pill in the key for the alarm control module ....some did not have trunk releases but all had a pill and removing it requires the dme to be modified so it does not need a transponder which is "ILLEGAL"
The Texas boys had a couple of cars this way and were disqualified for illegal modifications to the DME.....

mmuller

Who said I removed the pill?

jaundice

Likely still has key and ignition in car to satisfy the immobolizer, but bypassed the ignition piece and put it on a push button.

mmuller

So I got a few PM's on the ignition switch asking about how it's done, so rather than answer the same question multiple times, I will just answer it here.

There is no magic. As Provost pointed out above, removing the mobilizer requires an illegal change to the DME. However, the ignition switch is a point of failure. So I removed the pill from the key, disassembled the lock assembly to separate the mechanical barrel from the electronics. I taped the pill from the key to the sensor ring and then wired a start switch to where the original ignition switch was wired to. This removes the failure point, but keeps the immobilizer.