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My car still has that piece ... mounted the battery disconnect to it on the right (passenger) side.
Most keep the motor and drivers side wiper. I removed it (which is probably against the rules).
It is against the rules. Specifically says you have to keep it. I would put it back as that's an easy way to get DQ'd and really saves no weight. That and you need a wiper when you race in the rain
A winter boot to see the scale. Yes, it's usually like 15 degrees in my garage, so I need these boots. Though I do run electric and kerosene heaters.
<a href="http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/roosnuts/media/98%20Spec%20Boxster%20Build/IMAG0421_zpsrndiz2rs.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u635/roosnuts/98%20Spec%20Boxster%20Build/IMAG0421_zpsrndiz2rs.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0421_zpsrndiz2rs.jpg"/></a>
I'm thinking of doing the rear bumper next - remove spolier motor and fix in the up position, add tow hook, cut out license plate area and replace with screen, bonnet hood pins.
Is that everthing at the rear bumper? Any tips on anything above?
And how could I achieve something like this screen instal belowl? It looks like the screen does not have a frame inside and is just rivited from the inside. What type of screen is best? I'm planning to keep the exhaust underneath.
Once the spoiler and drive cables have been removed, two carefully drilled holes through the center of the struts will allow for you to use a simple spring clip to fix the spoiler in the raised position.
I used a piece of chicken wire to form the screen on my bumper. Wear a good pare of gloves and you can do most of the forming by hand. I drilled a series of small holes and held it in place with tie straps.
I've removed those as well as the impact absorbing shocks. I also removed most the heat shielding. A strap is lighter, but problematic. Pull the strap at an angle and you will yank the bumper right off.
I fabricated my tow hooks from the impact absorbing shocks.
I like these tow hooks because they retract so that they don't protrude very far. A tow strap will prevent even more bruised shins, but I am not as keen on them for some reason. Seems like a tow strap can more easily damage the bumper if used, but it depends how you mount and expose it. And if you REALLY need a big tow you probably already damaged your bumper.
The bumper bars are kind of heavy, and their mounting bolts and shocks are very heavy. If you can afford the weight, keep them; I suspect most cannot afford to keep the weight. The tow hooks mentioned above bolt into the bumper bar mount points, so it's one or the other. (Tow strap would solve that.)
There is an aftermarket (lighter weight?) bumper bar replacement, but I don't think it's actually spec legal.
I got rid of all the rear heat shielding since my car remains overweight, but it doesn't weigh very much. (Every little bit helps....)
That rear screening that you're showing with the exhausts protruding is made by Patrick Motorsports, in Phoenix. I have that on my car (they built it) and I think they sell that. They also have screens for the front ports.
Yes, I did remove the bumper bar. Like many others here, I am looking for every opportunity to reduce weight.
One thing to note is that when the internals of the shock are removed, it retracts nicely (similar to what trygrv describes) to help avoid constantly banging your shins.
Anyway, carefully cut off the end of the end of the shock about 3/4" from where the bumper bolts on with a hack saw. The inside of the shock is filled with compressed silicon rubber, so as soon as you break through it will start oozing out. If you don't see any silicon rubber, you didn't take enough off. Once you have the end removed, there are a few more internal parts that can be removed. Then carefully cut a 1/8" wide slot about 3/4" deep into the moveable end of the shock. Take a 2" wide piece of 1/8" flat stock and drill an 1 3/8" hole in one end . Insert the other end into the slot you cut, weld, and paint the end bright red. Before welding though figure out where the hole in the bumper cover will eventually be. Temporarily bolt the shock in place and install the bumper cover. The working from the air intakes (grills and ductwork removed) you can mark where the hole will need to be.
That rear screening that you're showing with the exhausts protruding is made by Patrick Motorsports, in Phoenix. I have that on my car (they built it) and I think they sell that. They also have screens for the front ports.
Looked for that screen on Patrick's site, couldn't find it anywhere...
01-27-2016 | 11:28 AM
