When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you Clive. I was not sure during the process and very nervous. In the end once it was out it wasn't too bad after all. The planning and double checking your work and having the right tools is key. Like I said I have done some work on inline 4 and 6 motors but this was a first. Once I get it back in the car and driving it then a huge sigh of relief. I am cleaning everything up underneath as best I can. The recent receipt(from 2006) shows all brakes redone, new calipers, pads, major tune up which included oil return hose, valve adjust, r&r distributor and vacuum, r&r throttle plate n bushings, both belts, replace voltage regulator, spark plug boots and connectors, valve cover gaskets. I think the shocks are original. I see it would be a lot easier replacing the rear shocks with the engine out. Any suggestions there? thanks
I did mine wth engine in. Was a pain. Looks like a 10 minute job with the engine out.
I went with bilstein sports and I love it. But i think that's a whole thread on its own
Randy, outstanding work! I just dropped back in after being out of it for the last few days. Congratulations on apparently finding the problem.
I'm going to put my safety hat on now. That shredded clutch disk is probably loaded with asbestos fibers. I would seal it in a plastic bag ASAP, along with those scraps. Then I would wash down all the other parts with brake cleaner or even water to get as many of the asbestos fibers wet and washed away, then discard the solution (so the solvent doesn't evaporate and re-release the fibers in your garage). I would even wear a respirator with a HEPA filter (not a surgical mask, won't help much) while doing this if you have one. Do not hit things with compressed air to blow away the debris.
Admittedly, an abundance of caution. A one-time exposure isn't going to be a big deal. It's just we're all probably exposed to asbestos more often than we know, so I try to eliminate any exposure that I can.
Lots of things to consider doing now with the engine out. Inspect the back part of the engine where the crankcase breather hose connects to the case. This area has that breather connection, the engine oil thermostat (oval aluminum plate held on with two nuts), and the oil pressure switch (doesn't run the gauge, this switch turns on the red oil pressure light if the pressure is too low). Known as the "triangle of death", because all are prone to leakage and very difficult to reach with the engine in the car. You might consider preemptive replacement with new parts now (new switch, o-rings for the thermostat, gasket for the breather). See the third post in this thread for a photograph: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ing-worse.html
You could also consider replacing vacuum hoses, and the bushings on the throttle linkage. Many other similar maintenance chores are easy to do now, but you need to watch the slippery slope. If your CIS is running great, it wouldn't be a terrible idea to leave well enough alone either. Next time you'll get the engine out much faster.
Thank you Mark. Yes quite a bit accomplished.
Question for everyone. Is the ring gear to be removed from the pressure plate or is a new one included with the kit. If its removed whats the process? I don't see hex bolts that hold it in place?
Hi Randy .The starter ring you just remove with hammer gently all round tapping .To try to remove the TO bearing from the pres.plate you need to step on the plate with both feed and with a pick remove the circlip.I wonder if you find a spacer under the sunshine looking spacer..2nd from right on this pick
Hi Ivan, I got the circlip removed, first photo below, then removed pressure plate to see the sunshine spacer, below the sunshine spacer there is only the bearing, no other spacer.
another quick question, there is a washer above the clutch fork that is falling apart. What is the part I need to order and what is the process to replace it? Thanks, photo attached.
That would be part number 915-301-139-00. I can never seem to link directly to the Pelican catalog, but here is a link to Stoddard's: http://www.stoddard.com/91530113900.html