Engine mount, genuine Porsche or aftermarket?
#32
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are you sure those Rein mounts are hydraulic? I know the aftermarket division makes both rubber filled and hydraulic with the cheaper version being rubber filled, like Porsche mounts sold before 1989.
#33
JasonAndreas, I actually never got around to taking the new Rein engine mounts apart to confirm. But come replacement time a few years down the road it would be a nice fun thing to do, but for now perhaps another Rennlister that has used the Rein part and is replacing a set can do that for us and let us all know. Specially if the aftermarket realm has a lot of these supposed cheaper alternatives to the proprietary Porsche Brand fluid filled mounts.
From what I understand is that Rein is a distributor that purchases parts from Original equipment manufacture like Corteco or any of their subcontracted subsidiary. They then repackage the product due to Porsche proprietary controls. You do know that Porsche is not in the parts manufacturing business but contracts other manufactures to make parts for them and then the manufacture of those parts adds the Porsche label & Part number on the end product, in most cases it's the same part minus the Porsche label.
From what I understand is that Rein is a distributor that purchases parts from Original equipment manufacture like Corteco or any of their subcontracted subsidiary. They then repackage the product due to Porsche proprietary controls. You do know that Porsche is not in the parts manufacturing business but contracts other manufactures to make parts for them and then the manufacture of those parts adds the Porsche label & Part number on the end product, in most cases it's the same part minus the Porsche label.
#34
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Corteco (the aftermarket division of Freudenberg which is the OE producer for the Porsche 964/993/996 mounts) sells two different styles of engine mounts for the 993 and 996 (REIN is just a North American based importer/distributor, not unlike Worldpac) . The cheaper are rubber/elastomer filled, exactly like the engine mounts used prior to 1989 and very similar to what people are selling here as RS (URO has a horrible trainwreck of a rightfully deserved reputation) with a slight change in durometer. In the past some places (Pelican Parts, etc.) have marketed them as 993C4 mounts. I was just trying to point out that they are not at all the same as repackaged and relabeled Porsche mounts. They will definitely be better than a set of mounts that have leaked out but not close to the original style hydraulic mounts.
#36
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I installed Rein brand box mounts yesterday. Compared them to the old, and they are identical, down to the same casting flash on the Al housing. I can't see inside, but they work perfect.
#37
Rennlist Member
Finally got a chance to drive the care with the Wevo semi-solid mounts. So far I don't notice any significant increase in NVH from the engine. There's an urgency and "tightness" to the car that seems new, but it's difficult to say if this behavior is due to the mounts or other changes I made to the car at the same time.
#38
Racer
I know that the tell-tale sign of worn mounts is sagging exhaust tips, but how far do they sag? Or, asked a different way, where should the tips sit when the mounts are new?
#39
Rennlist Member
Mine are uneven, despite brand new mounts. My left side had a 1.5" gap and right was 1" BEFORE replacing them. Afterwards the right side was 3/4" and I don't have a measurement from the left side.
#40
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
At the top of the long bolt shank there is a square shoulder. This square shoulder rides inside of a square cut out in that large rear crossbeam. If the square shoulder isn't seated in the cut out, you can tighten the mount but it will still be dropped down as you note. Get a jack on the oil pan with a block of wood to distribute the load, back off the big nut, and use a flashlight to shine up in the shank area. See if you can verify that the square shoulder has seated inside the crossbeam fully. Only takes a short time with an 18mm deep socket and ext. Note; support the car on stands before jacking on the oil pan wood insert to hold the engine up.
#41
Rennlist Member
At the top of the long bolt shank there is a square shoulder. This square shoulder rides inside of a square cut out in that large rear crossbeam. If the square shoulder isn't seated in the cut out, you can tighten the mount but it will still be dropped down as you note. Get a jack on the oil pan with a block of wood to distribute the load, back off the big nut, and use a flashlight to shine up in the shank area. See if you can verify that the square shoulder has seated inside the crossbeam fully. Only takes a short time with an 18mm deep socket and ext. Note; support the car on stands before jacking on the oil pan wood insert to hold the engine up.
Thanks
Charlie
#42
Race Car
Are there any other signs?
My exhaust tips seem fine but my passenger seat occasionally vibrates and my previous owner documentation notes that one engine mount was torn but doesn't mention a replacement. That was quite a few years ago so not sure if it was replaced under their ownership.
I'm assuming that if it was left this long I would have noticed it possibly leaking fluid?
Quite unsure of what to go with, fair bit of positive feedback on the wevo as well as the rss.
My exhaust tips seem fine but my passenger seat occasionally vibrates and my previous owner documentation notes that one engine mount was torn but doesn't mention a replacement. That was quite a few years ago so not sure if it was replaced under their ownership.
I'm assuming that if it was left this long I would have noticed it possibly leaking fluid?
Quite unsure of what to go with, fair bit of positive feedback on the wevo as well as the rss.
#43
Rennlist Member