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How much power is he trying to make?
Josh at rouge ran a stock internal NA at 17 -18 lbs of boost be for it gave up.
So if you have a good set up and good tune and you are trying to stay in a budget
just build it and keep the boost low or just get a set of used turbo pistons...
Check out the link to rouge tuning and what he said about the stock internals
Wish I had your welding skillz plan on Turboing my NA using the callaway setup but with
a 944 IC mounted in the stock location with 36 lb injectors n maybe the stock dme with a turbo
maf or megasquirt plan on using a WRX turbo
Could you take some pics of where you are having trouble with the AC radiator?
Ask and you shall receive:
THIS is what was most annoying. The 2 brackets that stick out won't allow the 2.5" wide cooler in front (and I don't want to cut them because I believe in their purpose.
Also, these 2.5" & 3" V band clamps just showed up.
Callaway had nearly 300 ponies on the cast stuff after machining. Is there a way I can do it myself? I don't have a milling machine. I do have files & sand paper.
They got closer to 220hp IIRC - must've been a typo the floated 280 figure (could Callaway really build a turbo 944 better than Porsche could 3 years later?)
Callaway milled the whole face of the piston down so that just the "lip" at the edge of the piston touching the bore was still there.
You would need a mill or a lathe to do it that way.
...Callaway milled the whole face of the piston down so that just the "lip" at the edge of the piston touching the bore was still there. You would need a mill or a lathe to do it that way..
I was looking for a picture of the Callaway piston on my computer, you beat me to it. Btw I have successfully milled aluminum with my hand-held wood router using many shallow passes. Used this method a few times on small parts when I just needed it done. Not advising you practice by milling your pistons installed in their bores, but if it was my engine and I was going to replace the pistons i would give it a try just for giggles.
I prefer road tunes over dyno tunes. It is neat to have that print out, but to get accurate load you need to drive the car outside of full throttle runs in overdrive.
This really IS the best "cheapskate method"
Based on 10.2 or 9.5 stock pistons?
Kind of tempting I won't lie.
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The cost of that gasket rivals 951 pistons & rods. I already have new rings, and bearings are less than $100 cdn landed). Michael Mount says you can re-use a GOOD oil pan gasket... and if I'm not pressed for time, then I'd be stupid not to go the 951 route.
I think I will just buy used turbo pistons & rods, re-ring and replace bearings. But I have some time to ponder every option.
Little back tracking now.
Things I found in my research.
Originally I wanted to used factory Motronic & AFM.
But how was I going to handle the extra fuelling needs.
I know having one main computer was the best. But could I do like Callaway & good with a modular fueler? And if I could, what would it look like?
Well, the stock n/a injectors won't produce for boost... more injection needed, plus I like the idea of methanol and water to control detonation (since at that time I was considering 944 9.5:1 pistons).
So, could a normal guy like me WHO IS NOT LIKING LAPTOPS AND OLD PORSCHES IN THE SAME ROOM, supply the extra fuelling?
So what I was considering was a "modular" approach.
With a separate ecu and injectors (I was going to run a second oem fuel rail and 4 extra n/a injectors upstream on the intake runners) which would be supplied fuel in a "piggy back" fashion from a hose on the front of the rail where the dampener is.
The "Split second" product is probably okay, but you require a laptop & programs.... more hassles in my opinion.
So there you have it.
The question is could this modular approach worked?
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I think it would work acceptably well.
But I also theorize that it will always be "rough", not ever really well tuned.
The cost of these 3 modules is like $2400 canadian.
And it's a gamble if it would work well enough.
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Fortunately I found something that will work very well for about the same cost... and guess what? No laptop required! It is one central ecm, which is superior to different modules.
I will be using only 4 larger injectors, no "extras".
It is also using MAP, so I can run without the stock AFM.
I prefer road tunes over dyno tunes. It is neat to have that print out, but to get accurate load you need to drive the car outside of full throttle runs in overdrive.
Interesting. The maker of the standalone I will be buying also said to tune it on the road
MicroSquirt is like $350 USD and it's been super well documented for these cars.... It's the size of a deck a cards and you don't need any external modules to run the car, except the wideband controller.
^^yeah, methanol is a sort of bandaid if you don't have a proper ECU to actually control things.
it's like the rising-rate fuel pressure regulator - only makes sense if you have no other option or are way too short on budget to tune the ECU.
more capable ECU makes all things better...and then you can actually tune for the methanol/water to make use of its real potential.
my gasket-math above was based on 9.5 pistons.
do you want my 951 coolant pipe?