When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
cutting out the front crossmember opens up a TON of room. BTDT when my car was still stock.
i made a hefty brace that bolted to each front bumper shock to keep the "ends of the rails" happy and aligned right, but it still gave me another 2.5" or so of air space.
...Routing from the cooler to n/a throttle body sucks (because the upper rad hose is in the way & the angles of the throttle body & the cooler will make for nasty bends)....
You can fit the 951 upper radiator hose coupling and cylider head outlet casting onto the na, its a direct swap. It is also clocked 90 degrees from the na one and is directed downwards to allow clearance for intercooler pipes.
I like your method of bending the flange around your holes, I'll try to remember that one for myself if I ever come into that situation..
Your "GOD" car there seems to not only have hood extraction of the IC but rather hood extraction of the entire radiator including the IC all the way at the bottom.. Though I don't much like the large space between the IC and radiator..
Could you take some pics of where you are having trouble with the AC radiator? Is their a good reason you cannot get it to slam flat against the rad?
If you could get away with a tripple stack rad-AC-IC right on top of eachother on the top section of the RAD I think it would be premium.. Then maybe you could build a hood duct from the top half of your rad and suck right through all of them..
If you are not against cutting the crap out of your car, why not just cut the whole hood latch section out and go with hood pins?
What is your plan for headlights with your IC piping right there? Will it fit?
It looks like you are getting a great offer on a radiator hose solution..
cutting out the front crossmember opens up a TON of room. BTDT when my car was still stock.
i made a hefty brace that bolted to each front bumper shock to keep the "ends of the rails" happy and aligned right, but it still gave me another 2.5" or so of air space.
Hmmm, me like the idea of bolting to the shocks...
Any pics?
only from the aftermath of my 2010 crash...FYI in this picture the car has been "shortened" about an inch
it was 3/8 steel...lol
saved my radiator from certain death.
on the "top" aka passenger side you can see the white paint that was inside where the original cross-bar used to be, so you have an idea of the space opened up.
If you are not against cutting the crap out of your car, why not just cut the whole hood latch section out and go with hood pins?
What is your plan for headlights with your IC piping right there? Will it fit?
I DO plan on hood pins, so yeah, the hood latch area can go.
-The headlights.....
very tight mate. very tight... dunno for sure it can be done, but I think with 90 degree hoses and moving the headlight mounts outboard 1" each side I *think* it'll work.
only from the aftermath of my 2010 crash...FYI in this picture the car has been "shortened" about an inch
it was 3/8 steel...lol
saved my radiator from certain death.
on the "top" aka passenger side you can see the white paint that was inside where the original cross-bar used to be, so you have an idea of the space opened up.
Neato! Is this from the night where you took the photo from emergency crew lights & whatnot? Where you okay? I was under the impression that you bought your car with the 951 front bumper already installed....
And I've always been curious if your avatar is 1 photo of your car & a small model in front or two photos of your real car.
This crash was in 2010. As you can see the car was brown...
I cut off the whole front structure at the engine crossmember and re-made it custom...that's when I did the turbo nose and painted the thing "carmona red" as it is now.
The photo is a tiny model car in front of my actual car in the driveway of my old house.
My brother works for VW and picked up the toy model in Germany last year.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts & ideas... I can use all the help I can get!
---------------
Here is the god-like... incredible set up of Patrick's Australian beast. His car is what I often refer to as being about as good as they get.
Notice the turbo is angled differently than I chose to go, so of course that changes the routing for charge air & exhaust.
My "dream car" has charge air cooler extraction out the hood like he's done (with dam).
Noah, the angle of the turbo is determined by the mount. As we go up in turbo size we found that we needed to make room for the turbine housing which meant grinding the mount and then grinding the balance shaft cover. Duke actually made up a different mount that brought the turbo out further from the motor and also parallel as opposed to the angle that mine is on. The angle is fine if the turbo isn't too big. Also as you can see, the ducting for our cooling cores is a packaging constraint and therfore we more or less have to run the pipe to the turbo on that angle anyway. Those are old pictures too. New turbo is way bigger than that old GT30.
Really not liking those ignition leads laying on the stainless steel braided fuel rail hose, too many engine fires start in that area + the heat in that area must affect the resistance of those long leads.
That's from 2013 and things have changed a Ton since then. The heat underhood in our car is immense with no openings into the engine bay. Still manages to do ok.
I am planning my work around my budget. The biggest expense is the electronics. I'll have the car operational and "turbo'd" in about 2 months. Eventually I'll get it tuned and dyno'd.
I want to sort out the mechanical changes before painting the car... so the that's the order I need to do changes or repairs (painting last-but that belongs on another thread).
Will order up the stand alone and injectors & TPS in about 4 weeks.
Really not liking those ignition leads laying on the stainless steel braided fuel rail hose, too many engine fires start in that area + the heat in that area must affect the resistance of those long leads.
That car is obviously in a stage of development (look at the intercooler pipes-not even welded yet).
02-15-2017, 11:08 AM
