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I think haggard garage and engine masters have done Ebay turbo kit builds, they are worth watching. If I had the time it'd be fun to huck one of these kits on an old Cressida or something, but tuning would be a chore and it'd probably be more fun to mod something that already had most of the right parts and had a boost-aware ECU.
Keep the boost down and you'll be fine with standard pistons.
Keep the boost down and you should be fine with standard rods (at some point in production the 1989 944 Turbo 250hp spec started getting fitted with the same cast rods as the NA/S2) although forged ones would be better.
Tuning is everything, along with some "mechanical sympathy"...don't beat on it when you know you shouldn't (when engine is cold, or overheating, or try to hold WOT in 5th gear for a 5-mile uphill mountain pass)...
Rising-rate fuel regulators work if done right, but they are seriously "old-school" and kind of silly to try to get one to work when you can get more benefit by tuning the ECU right. Even the Motronic will work but of course I would steer you towards an aftermarket system to cope...
Keep the boost down and you'll be fine with standard pistons.
Keep the boost down and you should be fine with standard rods (at some point in production the 1989 944 Turbo 250hp spec started getting fitted with the same cast rods as the NA/S2) although forged ones would be better.
Tuning is everything, along with some "mechanical sympathy"...don't beat on it when you know you shouldn't (when engine is cold, or overheating, or try to hold WOT in 5th gear for a 5-mile uphill mountain pass)...
Rising-rate fuel regulators work if done right, but they are seriously "old-school" and kind of silly to try to get one to work when you can get more benefit by tuning the ECU right. Even the Motronic will work but of course I would steer you towards an aftermarket system to cope...
Great suggestions. Do you think I can keep the 10.2:1 and just rock 7 psi boost for a while before I get serious?
^^the standard 944 turbo only made 15 hp more than your car...
Yeah, a testament to the quality of design & build a s.w.e.e.t. n/a.
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But building a Porsche n/a is an expensive proposition. For those who don't know, I've been a hardcore n/a fan... (for one because the 951 engine bay looks painful to work on), and I've tried the "building the n/a" route (twice). Once 8 valve $4000 to reach about 200 hp and a second time $4000 to convert to 16v -and still a long way off my target of 225bhp.
Building a torquey n/a 4 popper is EXPENSIVE. I'm done with expensive. You folks who live in the USA might not realize how good you have it for buying and selling parts. Shipping/duty/exchange make buying even this cheap Ebay kit expensive (close to $1000 by the time I get in my dirty little fingers).
Anyway, one day.... within the next 12 months, next time someone asks me "is it a turbo?" I hope I can say yes.
-You are right about the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I changed from 2.5 to 3.0 bar fpr when my "built" engine was running lean & the difference could really be felt! That was in summer but in winter I found I had to change back because my car ran too rich in winter.
I agree WIDEBAND is the most bare of essentials. I have one installed. Though sometimes I get an E8 error code... need to sort that out.
Yeah, a testament to the quality of design & build a s.w.e.e.t. n/a.
---------
But building a Porsche n/a is an expensive proposition. For those who don't know, I've been a hardcore n/a fan... (for one because the 951 engine bay looks painful to work on), and I've tried the "building the n/a" route (twice). Once 8 valve $4000 to reach about 200 hp and a second time $4000 to convert to 16v -and still a long way off my target of 225bhp.
Building a torquey n/a 4 popper is EXPENSIVE. I'm done with expensive. You folks who live in the USA might not realize how good you have it for buying and selling parts. Shipping/duty/exchange make buying even this cheap Ebay kit expensive (close to $1000 by the time I get in my dirty little fingers).
Anyway, one day.... within the next 12 months, next time someone asks me "is it a turbo?" I hope I can say yes.
It's a testament to Lindsey Racing and a UK Builder & Mapper all 3 are right up there in Worldwide Porsche 944 Engine tuning..
Yes costs have and are changing........
I was very lucky to take advantage of the £ per $ back in 2013 when I bought many items and services from Lindsey Racing, now the rate is almost one on one and both the Uk and USA are in a serious Mess with Leadership changes etc...
The knife edged crank as I understand doesn't contribute to the 205 bhp & Ft lbs, but whips up quicker and hence the car is faster from point A to B.
But you don't need this, only a Stage 2 LR Cylinder head and a Web 274 Camshaft, other than the Extrude Hone Inlet everything else is Lock stock & Bosch 2.5 parts
oh apart from the 951 header and 48.4mm ID Exhaust System.
So you or anyone in theory should be able to get good performance on a 2.5
as it's 228cc more at 2707. But even in the Uk with fully programmable ECU Camshaft, wasted spark, etc.. nobody has over 200 from a 2.5 or 2.7 so I don;t know how or why this has happened with mine? especially with the beautiful AFM and Bosch Ignition / Fueling equipment.
I was also considering a LPT (Light Pressure Turbo), even a Supercharger.
My Engine builder was not keen on my thoughts of a light pressure Turbo
and told me not to be soft ! , he has suggested that I Turbo the Engine at some point, but i can;t be arsed with the faff to have it off the road again having waited 3 years to get it finished!
You can see why many people Suggest , buying a wrecked 951 as a Donor, or
source a complete Engine Loom ECu etc..from a Breaker / Parting Company.
The other elephant in the room is where are you going to mount all this stuff. The reason the 951 is so annoying to work on is because of the turbo location. Maybe rear mount?
Spencer, THANKS ...huge thanks for mentioning rising rate fuel pressure regulators. I looked up the function, sounds like it was MADE for NA to BOOSTED conversions without messing with ecm. 30-70 psi would be perfect.
-You are right about the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I changed from 2.5 to 3.0 bar fpr when my "built" engine was running lean & the difference could really be felt! That was in summer but in winter I found I had to change back because my car ran too rich in winter.
I agree WIDEBAND is the most bare of essentials. I have one installed. Though sometimes I get an E8 error code... need to sort that out.
Yeah, stock injectors are 24lb.
On the note of placement, I would put it where Callaway put it.
I've got a not-very-pretty sheetmetal intake for an 8v head that would give you unlimited/easy access to the turbo if you put it in the standard 951 location. If you were really interested I might be willing to sell it off...I got it from blown944 of "lil mule" supercharged 944 fame.
this one...although it doesn't have the "horn" sticking out towards the driver side anymore.
On the note of placement, I would put it where Callaway put it.
Wouldn't do a sideways IC though.
Holy crap!
Callaway... was an aftermarket conversion? Great picture.
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I'm sorry for asking this question 1 million times,
but IS THERE ANY RISK TO THE ELECTRONICS by upping the injector size, to say 40 lb? I need my dme to stay working great.
-If not, can someone please post a link to a easily swapped injector? I have been reading on rising rate fpr & I think that will be okay for low boost until I swap internals. Bigger injectors are something I'd put on sooner rather than later. Spencer talked about modern 4 holes for better spray pattern... That interests me
01-28-2017, 11:08 AM
