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Sucks. Been there and have two bottles for every job now. Think repeated heat cycles are needed to get moisture into the fluid. You'll know by the pedal firmness.
ATE Blue is sold at Pelican the last time I checked, but is not DOT simply because of its color.
I really meant Blue/Clear below but just used red out of reflex.
Originally Posted by 177mph
Who sells this blue and red fluid? From my understanding- its not available.
I've used ATE blue in the past (on other cars) and alternated it with Motul or the ATE un-dyed stuff. Just be aware that the blue dye may permanently dye your MC.
If you want a great brake fluid that will definitely last 2 years (street driven) with no problem, I like Castrol SRF.
ATE Blue is sold at Pelican the last time I checked, but is not DOT simply because of its color.
I really meant Blue/Clear below but just used red out of reflex.
Do you have a link?
ATE discontinued blue sales in the USA in 2013 to comply with the feds. Brake fluid must be amber.
Just to throw in my 0.02, while I wont generally buy a bottle of brake fluid with a layer of dust on it at the auto parts store, I still continue to use ATF super blue in my other vehicles. I will never hit the point where I am boiling the fluid in my street cars, even with the fluid being at least three years old, unless the TN DOT decides to make I-65 a 130 MPH speed limit and throws in some chicanes. In my tow rig and my race car, that's another story, but a street car is not going to be stressed on brake fluid temps. Just bleed it till the pedal is firm, and dont worry about it.
997.2 circulates the clutch fluid. Bleeding the clutch on a .1 isn't bad with the right rig.
Originally Posted by cvtbenhogan
Sucks. Been there and have two bottles for every job now. Think repeated heat cycles are needed to get moisture into the fluid. You'll know by the pedal firmness.
ATE Blue is sold at Pelican the last time I checked, but is not DOT simply because of its color.
I really meant Blue/Clear below but just used red out of reflex.
Last time you checked must have been a while ago. I tried to get some back in 2014 and had no luck thru pelican and others.....
Last time you checked must have been a while ago. I tried to get some back in 2014 and had no luck thru pelican and others.....
Ate Super Blue is no longer sold in the states due to the color being against U.S. regulations. However, Ate Typ200 is the same exact product, but is amber in color to meet U.S. regulations.
Ate Super Blue is no longer sold in the states due to the color being against U.S. regulations. However, Ate Typ200 is the same exact product, but is amber in color to meet U.S. regulations.
I was about due for my 2 year brake fluid change and I did something dumb. I ran out of brake fluid before I finished the job. I had a 1 liter can that I thought I had used only half last time... well I guess I used more than that! What a dope.
Anyway, the reservoir is full of new fluid and I did two wheels but could not finish the last two. I will order another can of the stuff and finish next weekend, but a question:
Does the fluid "circulate"? In other words, the fluid in the lines just kind of push back and forth don't they? So the only mixing of old and new is just what was in the top of the lines at cylinder .... in other words, no big deal... if I wanted to be super picky, I would suck out the new fluid and toss it, pour in some new stuff and drain the last two wheels. Or, just drain the last two wheels and top off. What say?
Comments?
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Normally the fluid will not circulate in the lines as they are under static pressure - just moves back and forth as a unit as you note. But if 1) you used a very different fluid (much higher boiling point, compressibility) than what was originally in the system before bleeding or 2) the existing fluid is very, very old and tired (i.e. has significant "water"), then I suppose it is possible to have specific gravity differences and so there could be fluid movement. But the practical side is the distance from brake fluid reservoir to caliper is such that I'd expect any diffusion to be minimal and take more than a week - even so, very unlikely you'd feel any impact. Doubt you are in any jeopardy.
Clutch fluid as noted by others may be more of a mixing situation, but again probably not a real issue for a week.
I used to do the ATE blue/amber rotation, but had an issue in my 987 with the blue fluid reacting with the clutch slave cylinder seals and squeaking. Switching back to amber quickly resolved this (within a few miles), from which I concludes that there is some mass transfer occurring, at least in the clutch portion of the circuit. As noted above, the brake circuit is under static pressure, while there might be diffusion occurring, the fluid is not moving much.
there were some questions above about the use of a Motiv bleeder. Like many, I use th Motiv as a pressure source to bleed my brakes, re-filling the reservoir after each corner. Works well as long as you don't run the reservoir dry, and even then you can purge the air via conventional brake bleeding, with someone stomping the pedal while you work then bleed screw.
Yea its been at least a few years since I bought the ATE Blue from Pelican.
I bought several cans back then that have lasted and still have some in my garage.
Originally Posted by 177mph
Last time you checked must have been a while ago. I tried to get some back in 2014 and had no luck thru pelican and others.....
09-26-2016, 10:59 AM
