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It depends on your placement of the main air compressor. The way I set up the air compressor, it's located in the corner of the garage, near the garage door. So having the unit on the lift post can be easier access when you are working on the car.
If you look at my picture, I ran the power and air lines straight up to my roof to have a cleaner set up.
Stupid question, but why do you need an air compressor to lower the lift? I've got a Quality Lift 4 post lift and no compressor is required.
Stupid question, but why do you need an air compressor to lower the lift? I've got a Quality Lift 4 post lift and no compressor is required.
It's the way BendPak design their lifts. It uses air to release the locking valve on the lift. I had a Revolution 4 post lift and it didn't need to use an air compressor either. Now, I am not an expert, so I don't know the exact reason why BendPak would go with the air compressor route vs. the other companies.
If someone could chime in on this topic, I would be interested to find out as well!
It's the way BendPak design their lifts. It uses air to release the locking valve on the lift. I had a Revolution 4 post lift and it didn't need to use an air compressor either. Now, I am not an expert, so I don't know the exact reason why BendPak would go with the air compressor route vs. the other companies.
If someone could chime in on this topic, I would be interested to find out as well!
It seems like an unnecessary complication but I assume they had a good reason.
Install went well! Only minor issue is my bendpak bottle leaks slightly. Not a major issue as I just raise the cars a few inches and have enough pressure to drop. I do also have the compressor as a backup.
Tight squeeze but great that you were able to get them all in!
Have been contemplating doing the same, but its turning to be a pain, as while I have the height I have to change the motor and entire drum/spring/rail mechanism (currently center mounted and have to move to a side mounted motor and mechanism).
Tight squeeze but great that you were able to get them all in!
Have been contemplating doing the same, but its turning to be a pain, as while I have the height I have to change the motor and entire drum/spring/rail mechanism (currently center mounted and have to move to a side mounted motor and mechanism).
I had to do the same with ours. You can see the old light from the previous opener in the pic. Definitely worth it.
It's a little tight, but not too bad. Was worried the jeep wouldn't fit but luckily we have a few inches to spare.
I had to do the same with ours. You can see the old light from the previous opener in the pic. Definitely worth it.
It's a little tight, but not too bad. Was worried the jeep wouldn't fit but luckily we have a few inches to spare.
Cool, glad it worked out for you.
I'm still on the fence and weighing the pros and cons. Cost aside, I am so used to just wandering about in the garage, whether its detailing of just some DIY that I feel it will actually constrain me from doing some of that. Also have some garage art and in fact this weekend putting up 4 cases (84 cars each) of my Hot Wheels collection, so it might start feeling less and less like a man cave, hah!
I'm still on the fence and weighing the pros and cons. Cost aside, I am so used to just wandering about in the garage, whether its detailing of just some DIY that I feel it will actually constrain me from doing some of that. Also have some garage art and in fact this weekend putting up 4 cases (84 cars each) of my Hot Wheels collection, so it might start feeling less and less like a man cave, hah!
I guess you win some (space) and you lose some...
Oh yea, gotta show off the toys! I definitely lost some space- I was considering quite a few custom cabinets and a work bench. That whole project is now being redesigned.
I do have some room to detail when the lift is lowered. The four post saves quite a bit of space for two cars. I couldn't imagine having 8 posts for two cars in this garage. That would make it a bit more difficult.
It seems like an unnecessary complication but I assume they had a good reason.
I asked my installer this today. Bendpak has a two lock safety mechanism. The compressed air releases the lock. As I've found out, it's not a big issue. Purchase the bottle that's listed as an accessory and you're all good.
I'm a little late to this thread but hopefully will be able to get some questions answered that will save me from some EXTENSIVE modifications to pop up my garage ceiling.
I have 2 cars, both 51" tall and a 111" ceiling height. Technically I should be able to add the 2 heights together + 4.5" deck thickness and 2" clearance above each car and fit it. However that really also depends on how much adjustability I have with the locking position of the deck.
First, can someone clarify what adjustable lock ladders are. I seem them listed as a feature on the Bendpak HD-9 I'm considering. I'm hoping this means that I can micro-adjust the exact height I want the deck to rest at. This would allow me to put it exactly 2 inches above the height of the lower car.
When starting to lower the car how high do you have to raise the platform to let the locks release.
Is 2" of clearance above each car acceptable? I know it's tight, super tight in fact, but is it doable? Anyone here running that close?
Each locking point (on Direct Lift at least) is 6" apart and I have 10 locking slots in the ladder.
Bendpak has the same locking ladder, but they advertise 13 locking points.
So I am guessing theirs are 4"-5" apart vs 6". Here is a picture of the HD-9 ladder/lock:
You cannot micro adjust. It's either on the locks or it's not and leaving it not locked is NOT safe.
2" is 2" so if it clears the lift it works. BUT
My biggest fear/issue with that clearance is if you have an auto popping trunk or hatch. If you forget and pop it in the car, or you are in the house and you sit on keys funny or your kid gets a hold of the remote and pops the trunk/hatch you are looking at an expensive repair.
I'm a little late to this thread but hopefully will be able to get some questions answered that will save me from some EXTENSIVE modifications to pop up my garage ceiling.
I have 2 cars, both 51" tall and a 111" ceiling height. Technically I should be able to add the 2 heights together + 4.5" deck thickness and 2" clearance above each car and fit it. However that really also depends on how much adjustability I have with the locking position of the deck.
First, can someone clarify what adjustable lock ladders are. I seem them listed as a feature on the Bendpak HD-9 I'm considering. I'm hoping this means that I can micro-adjust the exact height I want the deck to rest at. This would allow me to put it exactly 2 inches above the height of the lower car.
When starting to lower the car how high do you have to raise the platform to let the locks release.
Is 2" of clearance above each car acceptable? I know it's tight, super tight in fact, but is it doable? Anyone here running that close?
Thanks for any help.
I had a similar problem and I create a spreadsheet that helped me calculate the height based on the lift positions.
Each locking point (on Direct Lift at least) is 6" apart and I have 10 locking slots in the ladder.
Bendpak has the same locking ladder, but they advertise 13 locking points.
So I am guessing theirs are 4"-5" apart vs 6". Here is a picture of the HD-9 ladder/lock:
You cannot micro adjust. It's either on the locks or it's not and leaving it not locked is NOT safe.
2" is 2" so if it clears the lift it works. BUT
My biggest fear/issue with that clearance is if you have an auto popping trunk or hatch. If you forget and pop it in the car, or you are in the house and you sit on keys funny or your kid gets a hold of the remote and pops the trunk/hatch you are looking at an expensive repair.
First, I never even considered the auto trunk opening thing. Doesn't pertain to me but I can definitely see where that would bite you.
Regarding the micro-adjustment. Looking at the diagram you posted (thanks btw, very helpful) if you look at the bolt on the top of the device to the right of the red bolt, it looks like it could be adjusted up or down and this would move the hanging locking plate up or down with it. If that's the case then it would seem you could adjust were the locking holes line up relative to the height above the floor and get the desired results I'm looking for???
The real reason for that adjustment is for leveling level the lift.
But I suppose during during the install you can raise and lower each ladder to fine tune the locking heights. It isn't a huge amount of adjustment (maybe an inch or two up max) and you can't do it on the fly or with a vehicle on the lift.
08-05-2016, 09:40 PM
