My '78 US #412 and all things '78 and '79 related
03-30-2016, 03:22 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Now I understand why you are having charging issues. If that dual fan was installed w/o upgrading the alternator, you'll have a problem - esp if both fans come on at the same time (not dual-stage).
The stock alt is marginal to begin with, so you'll need to consider at least a 90 Amp alternator. And/or ditch the electric fan setup and return to stock.
Add-on fans and other things you've mentioned are bandaids for a poorly working, undiagnosed cooling system. Start with getting an IR thermometer and getting some readings in front and behind the thermostat (inlet & outlet hose). Also take readings on the radiator, top and bottom. My guess as the bottom cores of your radiator are plugged, so it will read cooler there. And my guess is there was a leak and some nasty stop-leak was added which made things worse (and leak more).
Get prepared to replace your radiator (which I assume is original).
The stock alt is marginal to begin with, so you'll need to consider at least a 90 Amp alternator. And/or ditch the electric fan setup and return to stock.
Add-on fans and other things you've mentioned are bandaids for a poorly working, undiagnosed cooling system. Start with getting an IR thermometer and getting some readings in front and behind the thermostat (inlet & outlet hose). Also take readings on the radiator, top and bottom. My guess as the bottom cores of your radiator are plugged, so it will read cooler there. And my guess is there was a leak and some nasty stop-leak was added which made things worse (and leak more).
Get prepared to replace your radiator (which I assume is original).
03-30-2016, 09:22 PM
#33
If I ever get a chance to see your 78's...they will have no radios in the dashes...too...evil lol.
Cooling issue...
I agree with Jim...find the true problem. The cooling system is more than proficient at doing its job, when in proper working order. Compensating for failing or obstructed parts is not a repair.
Brian.
Cooling issue...
I agree with Jim...find the true problem. The cooling system is more than proficient at doing its job, when in proper working order. Compensating for failing or obstructed parts is not a repair.
Brian.
03-30-2016, 09:50 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Here is a thought about your fuel lines. There a number of rubber hoses in addition to the hard lines, but only one is in the engine compartment and on the high pressure (input side). If you are watching your funds, replace only that one first and just inspect the others. You can either go stock (if available) or GB.
03-31-2016, 06:14 AM
#35
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here is a thought about your fuel lines. There a number of rubber hoses in addition to the hard lines, but only one is in the engine compartment and on the high pressure (input side). If you are watching your funds, replace only that one first and just inspect the others. You can either go stock (if available) or GB.
03-31-2016, 06:29 AM
#36
There are two rubber fuel lines that run between the inner fender, passenger side, and exhaust manifold. These are the two that turn the car to toast if leaking.
Be very, very careful undoing the lines, they can be a real bastard and you do not want to ruin the two steel hard lines on the engine-end of things, for they are very, very hard to find in good shape, or the steel lines under the car for that matter. Start soaking them down with Blaster or WD40 Extreme...for about a month before even starting on the removal process.
Personally, I'd do them both while you are under there. Both lines run next to one another...and once one is removed, it gives you a bit more room for working the wrenches on the next one. Plus, if you are going to get gas all over yourself removing one...why wait to do it again later...for the other? Buy a set of quality line wrenches, 17mm and 19mm (if I remember correctly, so check first), no cheapy, off the wall crap or you will be very, very sorry.
Good luck,
Brian.
Be very, very careful undoing the lines, they can be a real bastard and you do not want to ruin the two steel hard lines on the engine-end of things, for they are very, very hard to find in good shape, or the steel lines under the car for that matter. Start soaking them down with Blaster or WD40 Extreme...for about a month before even starting on the removal process.
Personally, I'd do them both while you are under there. Both lines run next to one another...and once one is removed, it gives you a bit more room for working the wrenches on the next one. Plus, if you are going to get gas all over yourself removing one...why wait to do it again later...for the other? Buy a set of quality line wrenches, 17mm and 19mm (if I remember correctly, so check first), no cheapy, off the wall crap or you will be very, very sorry.
Good luck,
Brian.
03-31-2016, 03:38 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
The two rubber lines in the engine compartment are under the coolant water reservoir. You want the one that comes from the pump, not the one that returns to the tank. You can figure out which one this is by tracing it back to the drivers side rear wheel well. The vent line also goes there, but at the front it just has a plain rubber hose with a hose clamp. You could also find it by tracing back from the inlet port of the fuel distributor. Or just call up GB and order the high pressure side hose. For sure he should know which one that is.
07-10-2016, 12:44 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
I think the buzzer goes with the fasten seat belt reminder light.
My '78 0917 has a **** with a circular arrow where the dash crest is on 412. What does the **** control? Can't find a reference to it in my owner's manual.
My '78 0917 has a **** with a circular arrow where the dash crest is on 412. What does the **** control? Can't find a reference to it in my owner's manual.
