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The electronic oil level gauge uses extrapolated data from different sources to estimate the oil level. Driving at high rpm's before turning off the engine leaves more oil in the heads that can't be measured accurately by any means.
It's far better to drive the car a quart low than 1/4 quart overfilled.
it goes further than oil in the heads.. The heat exchanger alone can hold 1/2 qt of oil, and you can have another 1/2 qt held in other crevices of the engine. The AOS lower lend also holds some oil, especially on post mid 2002 engines with the later style AOS.
This is why you learn to never even look at the freakin gauge, or even the dipstick, unless the car has sat "stone cold 24". I preach this with every engine we deliver.
If you take time to measure the oil at different temperatures and durations of time after shut down, using a graduated cylinder, or the like will reveal a ton of information.
Also, some oil will measure differently than others, and yes, aeration of the oil also impacts the "virtual oil level".
Check the oil "stone cold 24" and keep it between the top, and bottom lines, and you simply will not go wrong. Be **** about it, check it every damn time you shut the car off, and try to keep it on the top line, and you'll pay for those choices with increased oil consumption, shorter lived AOS units, and even false fuel trim deviations.
I have ran an M96 engine 6 quarts low on purpose, and didn't hurt a thing... On the track it would have, but it you are 1, or even 2 quarts low- no big freakin deal.
after contacting the national weather bureau ,blackstone labs,saybolt seconds universal chart,laser level car [us spec] i have concluded my oil level is okay ......for the northern hemisphere only. i kinda feel sorry [not really i am lmao] for the person here that checks his oil TWICE a dayanother thread i must share with other mere mortals
Check the oil "stone cold 24" and keep it between the top, and bottom lines, and you simply will not go wrong. Be **** about it, check it every damn time you shut the car off, and try to keep it on the top line, and you'll pay for those choices with increased oil consumption, shorter lived AOS units, and even false fuel trim deviations
After some more testing and comparing I can now confirm the electronic measured oil level is still consistent with the dip stick. So the previous discrepancies I got were probably related to not so perfect measuring conditions which I overlooked. Overall on the mental side quite happy with the deeper sump and the extra oil it holds
I'm glad you started the thread. I didn't know the effect conditions had either. I just assumed the electronic reading was inaccurate. Good stuff.
I've only had my '01 C2 thru one oil change. In the early days of ownership, I'd check the electronic dip stick fairly regularly. After 2000 miles or so, I felt confident I wasn't burning any oil, so I stopped checking.
Then, just this week, I happened to stop to fill up. I never really paid attention to the post-fill-up oil reading indication, but this time I looked at it and was quite low. Like one bar above the min mark. Hmmm.....never saw it that low.
So after the conclusion of my drive, I checked the physical dip stick, and it was full. The next AM, I purposely let the oil level countdown indication run its course. One bar below FULL, which is where it's always been.
Just reinforcing that a) trust the physical stick, and b) ensure consistent conditions when checking the electronic.
This is why you learn to never even look at the freakin gauge, or even the dipstick, unless the car has sat "stone cold 24". I preach this with every engine we deliver.
Check the oil "stone cold 24" and keep it between the top, and bottom lines, and you simply will not go wrong. Be **** about it, check it every damn time you shut the car off, and try to keep it on the top line, and you'll pay for those choices with increased oil consumption, shorter lived AOS units, and even false fuel trim deviations.
That "stone cold 24" won't work for me as my Boxster seldom sits 24 hours unused.
As long as the engine was up to temp when I shut the engine off the night before the next AM when I go to check the oil I have a high degree of confidence in the reading.
And when after the engine has been run enough to be considered fully up to temperature and I shut off the engine the next time I go to start the engine if the oil level count down timer starts at '5' I have a high degree of confidence in the reading. As long as the engine and oil is still fairly hot, the reading will be higher then when it was cold but this is to be expected. I don't add oil on a "low" cold reading only on a "low" hot reading.
I know the electronic oil level system comes in for some dislikes but I much prefer it over the dipstick. When I owned cars with a dipstick it felt like a trip back in time to the '50's err make that the '80's (don't want to show my age) when at say the gas station I'd raise the hood and go through the steps to check the oil level with the dipstick. Like using a dial phone. Or getting up to change the TV channel or adjust the volume using ***** on the TV set.
And the Turbo doesn't have a dipstick. Even though the oil can't be checked cold I even like this system. With the Turbo oil level sensor/system as long as the engine is up to temperature and the car reasonably level I can check the oil any time, even at a stop light.
I've only had my '01 C2 thru one oil change. In the early days of ownership, I'd check the electronic dip stick fairly regularly. After 2000 miles or so, I felt confident I wasn't burning any oil, so I stopped checking.
Then, just this week, I happened to stop to fill up. I never really paid attention to the post-fill-up oil reading indication, but this time I looked at it and was quite low. Like one bar above the min mark. Hmmm.....never saw it that low.
So after the conclusion of my drive, I checked the physical dip stick, and it was full. The next AM, I purposely let the oil level countdown indication run its course. One bar below FULL, which is where it's always been.
Just reinforcing that a) trust the physical stick, and b) ensure consistent conditions when checking the electronic.
I like that - always trust your stick. Good rule to live by.
Do as you wish. I know what works for me, and those who trust me to fill their engine compartment. I also know what does;t work, and what causes problems.
As far as no dipstick on a Turbo, any 996TT I build will have the dipstick conversion made. When I do my "major" service on a TT I also add the conversion.
I trust what my eyes can see more than any electronic gizmo.
Installing water jackets and pistons today in this 996TT.
05-28-2016, 02:24 PM
another thread i must share with other mere mortals
