Gluing on studs to 968 Hatch L Spoilers
#1
Gluing on studs to 968 Hatch L Spoilers
So if I want to restore a good set of hockey sticks (fiberglass is good) but most of the studs have come un-glued. What is the best way to clean and re-attach the studs. So this is metal to fibron (Patented fiberglass) I think it is called.
I assume since 1990, that adhesives have come a bit further.
I assume since 1990, that adhesives have come a bit further.
#3
Was thinking something like this:
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...A&gclsrc=aw.ds
In general I consider any 3M glues good stuff
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...A&gclsrc=aw.ds
In general I consider any 3M glues good stuff
#4
#5
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#9
I had to do this on the hatch I put on my 951. I used Gorilla Glue Original and its held fine since 2005. Just make sure you follow the direction (it needs water to activate properly), clamp it and leave it sit for 24 hours. One of the hockey sticks had cracked and was almost completely broken off, and I also used Gorilla Glue to repair it as well. It is not noticeable unless you are going over the car with a magnifying glass.
Regards, ...Scott
Regards, ...Scott
#10
Couple of suggestions. To maximize the strength of the glue itself look for a two part epoxy (comes in two separate tubes or containers) that has as long a cure time as possible. Generally speaking, the longer the cure time the stronger the bond. I know Home Depot sells one with a 24 hour cure, the adhesives used in aerospace have cure times of 48 hours or longer.
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
#11
Couple of suggestions. To maximize the strength of the glue itself look for a two part epoxy (comes in two separate tubes or containers) that has as long a cure time as possible. Generally speaking, the longer the cure time the stronger the bond. I know Home Depot sells one with a 24 hour cure, the adhesives used in aerospace have cure times of 48 hours or longer.
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
#12
I had to do this on the hatch I put on my 951. I used Gorilla Glue Original and its held fine since 2005. Just make sure you follow the direction (it needs water to activate properly), clamp it and leave it sit for 24 hours. One of the hokey sticks had cracked and was almost completely broken off, and I also used Gorilla Glue to repair it as well. It is not noticeable unless you are going over the car with a magnifying glass.
Regards, ...Scott
Regards, ...Scott
#14
Additional Step
So I have done this twice and it failed both times after about a year.
I used two different types of two part epoxy. What I found is that the epoxy had no trouble adhering to the "hockey stick" it failed to stick, long term, to the back of the pins.
I had roughed them up with a medium file and cleaned them with wax and grease remover. Once I had a couple start to fail I pulled the trim to find several were loose and most if not all had no glue on the metal pin.
I just redid them but this time after roughing the pins and cleaning I painted the metal surface with some PPG epoxy primer I had been using for some other project.
You could use spray can epoxy primer, you just need to get something that will adhere to the pins so your glue (two part epoxy) sticks long term to both sides.
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has had the same experience after their repair.
I used two different types of two part epoxy. What I found is that the epoxy had no trouble adhering to the "hockey stick" it failed to stick, long term, to the back of the pins.
I had roughed them up with a medium file and cleaned them with wax and grease remover. Once I had a couple start to fail I pulled the trim to find several were loose and most if not all had no glue on the metal pin.
I just redid them but this time after roughing the pins and cleaning I painted the metal surface with some PPG epoxy primer I had been using for some other project.
You could use spray can epoxy primer, you just need to get something that will adhere to the pins so your glue (two part epoxy) sticks long term to both sides.
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has had the same experience after their repair.