THE REFINERY

I'm not sure there's any good practical solution. Ideally if you can keep it dry the oxidation process loses one of it's key ingredients. But that's not practical/possible for a daily driver.

And in my experience, once the rusting process has taken root - it's already too late to stop it (without surgery). If it's forming in damage on the surface (ie due to a scratch or chip in the paint), then cleaning the wound and touching it up with paint can slow things down. But if it's blistering from beneath the paint - there's not much you can do.

I've experimented with reapplying ceramic coatings over blistering rust and even sealing it over with Paint Protection Film - hoping to starve the rust of water and oxygen. But it didn't really help at all.

If the rest of the car is in good shape - is it worth replacing the panel again?

IXLR8

Well I like reliability. As they say in the motorcycle world "chrome won't get you home", which is why I have never owned that particular brand of motorcycle. in cars, nothing but a Toyota or Honda as a daily driver as I have kept them from new for 14 and 16 years with them still going strong with friends.

And if you keep them that long, get them Krowned. I do it myself...no holes drilled. It is a messy job and looks like I came out of a war zone when I'm finished. The government labs where I worked tested a few products. Krown came out on top, although I had been using it myself for 6 years prior to them doing the tests using testing standards.

pfitzsim

Happy Thanksgiving - any tips on cleaning the inside of a windshield? I have defaulted to Windex and paper towels for the last 40 years with mediocre results, which got me to thinking there must be a better solution. Driving home last night in the rain from a family gathering it was evident that I did a pretty dismal job on my moist recent attempt. Cheers.

THE REFINERY

Happy thanksgiving!

As with many topics, there are now much more specialized products and tools than even 10yrs ago.

The key to glass is to be sure to remove all lint and glass cleaner residue once the surface has been wiped/washed. The two key components, as you've identified, are the cleaner, the removal towel. But the technique is also critical to getting great results.

We love GYEON Glass cleaner - it doesn't have unnecessarily harsh chemicals (like ammonia) so it's very safe on all glass types and it wipes away extremely clean.

We have some wonderful glass-specific microfiber towels from our new supplier in stock, which are very absorbent and most importantly lint-free.

In terms of technique, spray your TOWEL liberally with the glass cleaner, and wipe down the glass surface to remove all smears, fingerprints and other residue. Then turn the towel to a dry side (or better, use a second clean towel) and gently buff the glass surface to remove any signs of moisture or streaks from the glass cleaner. I try to do half the windshield at a time.

This last buffing step is the most important to ensure you haven't left behind thin streaks or residue that become visible again in humid conditions.

Paper towels leave quite a bit of lint, and aren't soft/absorbent enough to be effective at the final buffing pass.

HTH!!

pfitzsim

Thanks Gerard - greatly appreciated. I need to stop by the shop one of these days - I'm usually downtown for work once or twice a month. Cheers.

Overdraft

Hello Gerard. I forgot about this thread before posting this question on the 993 board! What is the latest thinking to refurbishing a yellowing/ tired/ dirty window in a 993 cab? Thanks in advance.

THE REFINERY

Hi Overdraft - the vinyl "windows" in the soft-top are pretty challenging to keep looking good once they've started to degrade.

We've had ok results with Meguiars Plast-X in the past, but not always. You could experiment with it first since it's pretty widely available. If it doesn't work, step up the aggressiveness:

You can try using a DA and a soft pad and fine polish to help remove chalky surface oxidation, haze and grime. Make sure to mask off the fabric so you don't create white marks on it from the polish. You can do both sides, but you'll probably find the exterior facing surface is the worst.

Then you can apply a good quality wax/sealant to make the surface repellent + resistant to oxidation and outdoor exposure.

HTH!! Happy holidays!

Overdraft

Many thanks…and an apology ….not familiar with ‘DA’?….

THE REFINERY

DA stands for "Dual Action" polisher. I wasn't sure of what tools you have at your disposal...

Overdraft

OK understood. I have a new 3” 15000 RPM polisher I will put to work. Thanks again.

THE REFINERY

Sounds dangerous!

If it's a straight rotary tool (meaning, it is a direct drive, circular orbit), I'd keep the speeds on the lower end and keep it moving over the surface smoothly and evenly. A cross-hatch pattern while polishing should help keep you from wearing the surface unevenly.

For everyone else: a Dual Action polisher works a bit differently than a rotary tool. A DA has an oscillating orbit and rotation of the pad. That makes it both super effective at polishing (ie you're creating friction from both the spin and oscillation of the pad), while also making it MUCH safer for the surface due to the ability to stall the pad (if you're putting too much weight on the pad while polishing). It's almost like having a clutch. If you've ever seen really bad hologram marks on a paint finish in the sun, that was almost certainly accomplished by unskilled hands using a rotary polisher.

Onami

Dennis…if you can return your polisher and get a DA I would certainly suggest doing that.

Overdraft

Picked up some Plast X at CTC and I am pleased with results. Here is 1/3 through (left side). Finished product 150% better than what I had.

THE REFINERY

Awesome! Glad it's turning out so great

Autokosmetik

Correct abrasives, like you've mentioned here, are safe on all gloss painted finishes - not all painted finishes. One wipe on a matte surface and it can be ruined instantly. If using paint safe solvents, ensure the microfibre towel is of neutral colour and colourfast, otherwise it can stain the clearcoat with towel-dye. If none of these help, it is best to have a professional look at it. They mentioned it is swollen - this could require wet sanding if the clearcoat has absorbed sap or another contaminant.

Thank you for helping the community!