RacingBrakes.com 2 piece rotor performance after one season
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have no horse in the game either. i just think its fantastic that i was able to migrate to a lower cost rotor. the reasons for the failures seem like any other failure story. missuse, not poor design. However, i stilll have 6 more months of racing to go with them. maybe ill even see one of their vets out there with NASA ST2.
#18
Race Car
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1590976607
Post #10 is from someone that used to work at Performance Friction and has no horse in the race (you screwed up the metaphor as usual) either. A damning "endorsement" to be sure. You keep running those rotors if you want.....
Post #10 is from someone that used to work at Performance Friction and has no horse in the race (you screwed up the metaphor as usual) either. A damning "endorsement" to be sure. You keep running those rotors if you want.....
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1590976607
Post #10 is from someone that used to work at Performance Friction and has no horse in the race (you screwed up the metaphor as usual) either. A damning "endorsement" to be sure. You keep running those rotors if you want.....
Post #10 is from someone that used to work at Performance Friction and has no horse in the race (you screwed up the metaphor as usual) either. A damning "endorsement" to be sure. You keep running those rotors if you want.....
yes, i will continue to run these rotors. if they have issues, you guys will be the first to hear about it.
#20
Race Car
I dont think you have to even try to be a D__K, it comes so naturally. Horse in the game, could be polo, dog in the race, or how about this one, *** on the list? I have a BIG surprise for you when i see you at the next race Your mouth is cashing checks your brain cant cover.. how about that for a Metaphor!
yes, i will continue to run these rotors. if they have issues, you guys will be the first to hear about it.
yes, i will continue to run these rotors. if they have issues, you guys will be the first to hear about it.
“Your mouth is writing checks that your a$$ can't cash.”
From "Top Gun":
"Son, your ego is writing checks your body can't cash."
As far as the next race is concerned, I am shaking in my boots....not!!! Interesting threat, though. Are you going to "surprise" me on the track or in my pit area?
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Screwed up another metaphor. It goes something like this:
“Your mouth is writing checks that your a$$ can't cash.”
From "Top Gun":
"Son, your ego is writing checks your body can't cash."
As far as the next race is concerned, I am shaking in my boots....not!!! Interesting threat, though. Are you going to "surprise" me on the track or in my pit area?
“Your mouth is writing checks that your a$$ can't cash.”
From "Top Gun":
"Son, your ego is writing checks your body can't cash."
As far as the next race is concerned, I am shaking in my boots....not!!! Interesting threat, though. Are you going to "surprise" me on the track or in my pit area?
next race. in the pits...... I dont have the parachute rear NASCAR flap to keep up with your breakneck speeds..
by the way.. i dont think you can use that metaphor, unless your from the hood and pronounce A$$ like AZZ. otherwise, it sounds kind of silly!
#22
Rennlist Member
When dealing with brake heat, the rotor is acting like a heat ex-changer with two things to consider:
1. How large is the thermal capacity, this is directly related to the mass 9size) of the brake rotor, the heavier (larger) the better, in order to keep the heat under threshold.
2. How fast a rotor can dissipate the heat (move the heat out of the system)
I always like to refer the brake rotor as a heat sink - Just like your bathroom sink. The size of a sink (rotor) and the how fast it can drain the water (heat) determines how much heat you can put into the rotor w/o causing rotor to warp/crack (sink overflows).
For high speed track cars, you don't want to carry too big a sink, but you want it to drain the heat fast vs. heavy & low speed truck/trailer which you need a huge sink (mostly drum brake) to hold the heat because the low speed means poor heat exchange.
I hope this explains why Mark's new brake set up makes sense - A lighter rotor but with better design to cool the rotor faster still can perform better than a heavier rotor.
I have a discussion detailing the brake design in other section in case you are interested to learn more.
Racing Brake rotors vs AP Racing J hooks
1. How large is the thermal capacity, this is directly related to the mass 9size) of the brake rotor, the heavier (larger) the better, in order to keep the heat under threshold.
2. How fast a rotor can dissipate the heat (move the heat out of the system)
I always like to refer the brake rotor as a heat sink - Just like your bathroom sink. The size of a sink (rotor) and the how fast it can drain the water (heat) determines how much heat you can put into the rotor w/o causing rotor to warp/crack (sink overflows).
For high speed track cars, you don't want to carry too big a sink, but you want it to drain the heat fast vs. heavy & low speed truck/trailer which you need a huge sink (mostly drum brake) to hold the heat because the low speed means poor heat exchange.
I hope this explains why Mark's new brake set up makes sense - A lighter rotor but with better design to cool the rotor faster still can perform better than a heavier rotor.
I have a discussion detailing the brake design in other section in case you are interested to learn more.
Racing Brake rotors vs AP Racing J hooks