trebor_quitman

Hello all, I want to do my own alignments. Partly to save money, and partly just motivated to be self sufficient and do it myself. My dad used to use the old tape measure method, but I'm sure there are better, more accurate methods. What tools do the shop guys have that make them so special, and how can I get ahold of said tools without going broke? Are there any good books or resources I should get ahold of? Thanks,

DAR951

One place to start are the "Tech Articles" on the Longacre Racing web site (www.longacreracing.com) They have some basic info on the standard alignment angles (Camber, Castor, and Toe), what they do, and how to measure them with the more basic alignment tools (Camber/Castor Guage, Toe Plates, etc.). A reasonable set of instruments for the basic angles should probably run between 2-4 hundred dollars depending on what type (analog/digital) and what sort of accessories.

What you should ask yourself first though, is how often will I be using them?

If you're tracking your car, then alignment tools are pretty much a requirement. But if you're street driving (even with an occasional track day) they may be overkill and a pain (while you don't "need" camber plates to do a "self-alignment", you'll want them after setting camber one time w/o 'em) especially if you have a good alignment shop available.

Bill Gregory

Also take a look at the Smart Racing site (www.smartracingproducts.com) for several products that can help (I use the Smartcamber tool). And scour the web. I remember Mike Piera wrote an article describing how to check toe with a thumbtack, weighted string, and a measuring tape, for example.

Jeff Curtis

I own the Longacre camber/caster gauge and a set of their toe plates/measuring tapes.

I have yet to check & adjust toe, but have been keeping an eye on my camber for about a year now.

Just got the toe plates last week, being that I just completed a FULL suspension changeout with monoballs et al.

The only thing I want to get next is the "Dunlop" attachment for the camber/caster gauge as the 3" magnet end that I got with it doesn't cut it for accurate measurements...that would basically make it similar to the Smart Camber tool that Bill mentions.

Also, purchasing the "econo" slide plates, or making a set of your own will yield better results with the toe/camber adjustments up front...these allow your suspension to settle once you set the car down.

The suggestions of reviewing the Longacre info., available on the Stockcar Products website, etc. and the Smart Racing website are good ones.

Good luck, I think it's A LOT better to check and adjust your own alignment simply because it changes once you get off that $14K alignment rack that you just made a payment on by giving your local shop $200-$250 for the alignment job.

I believe that the "precise" digital readings/adjustments you yield from such a venture aren't as accurate as one may think...but that's just my opinion.

Take the $200-$250 and you should be able to puchase a caster/camber gauge, the correct adapter, a set of toe plates and you have what you need to check/adjust your alignment all you want - after all, I'll bet your shop won't take their alignment rack to the track for you!

DAR951

It's not really the readings that aren't precise (setup properly, they are) it's what the tech does with them that counts... The vast majority of shops with the high end Hunter (etc.) stuff will only make adjustments to within whatever the factory tolerance for the particular vehicle is... that tolerance may be several powers-of-magnitude looser than what the machine is capable of reading.

Unless the shop is willing to make adjustments to your tighter specs (and better yet, let you watch the readings while they do it) Jeff's right about the results not being very precise...

Best example I know is the Subaru WRX (my wife's car) which has front toe tollerance that actually allows one front wheel to have positive toe and the other negative, and still be "in-spec"...

Jeff Curtis

I agree.

One should "accompany" the alignment dude and ride his *** until the numbers say what you want them to say!

In most cases, this is NOT possible.

Lucky for me the shop that had alignment my C2 a few times over the years is cool and I get to "help".

I like to take the car in about once a year...just to see how good my measurements/adjustments are and compare them to the "real" numbers...so far, not bad.

JC in NY

Alignments is a sensitive subject. Here are some facts:

1. It is possible to do a perfect four wheel alignment job at home with string, as long as you understand what you're doing and you know how to square the chassis.

2. Laser accuracy is not required to get the car precisely aligned to manufacturers spec or better.

3. A shop with a very expensive Hunter alignment bench can still screw up your alignment.

4. Most serious race teams perform routine alignments in the paddock with "stone knives and bearskins" and the proper technique.

5. Laser alignment benches are used by pros because it is ultimately faster if the technician knows the equipment, but not necessarily better.

6. DIY alignment is time consuming and a pain-in-the-a$$, hence not worth the bother for a casual DE guy. But if you're racing it may be necessary to understand how to change your setup in the paddock.

markn

I use the Longacre plates and a Smart Racing digital castor/camber gauge. The SmartCamber gauge is great because it allows you to compensate for uneven or unlevel surfaces which means a setup rack is unnecessary (although it would still be nice to have!). I agree it is easier, and maybe better, to find a good local alignment shop with a Hunter system. The problem is that these shops are not often open when you need them. My last alignment was done at 2am in my garage! Another reason to purchase these tools is to use them at the track in emergencies. The first time I did my own alignment I took the car to my alignment shop for a check. I was within a tenth of a degree on the camber settings and right on the money for toe. Not bad for a home alignment. This was on my Spec Miata. I haven't played with the Porsche yet.


Mark

chris walrod

Toe bars with fishing line is the best for toe, as long as your toe bars are 'square' to the tub (chassis). Also wheels must be true.

This is the method we used where .010 of toe error makes the driver 'pucker', especially on ovals.

viperbob

Makes it a LOT easier when all the adjustments are accesible on the top of the car....

Long live the string.

OZ951

If your handy you can also make some bars that clamp to the underbody at fixed locations that will quickly provide reference marks for setting up Toe string lines along the side of the car. I use a precision depth guage to measure from the string line to the wheel edge and that gives good results for setting toe. For camber I have a shaped block of wood that fits to my wheel and I rest an angle gauge to it to see the angle, its not super precise but is good for 1/2 degree camber settings.

John Veninger

This might help:

http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/928%20ALIGN.HTML