Bedding in new brake pads - impossible?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Bedding in new brake pads - impossible?
Installed a set of Pagid Yellows midway through my last DE weekend. Followed the directions of my instructor and another veteran driver regarding bedding them in. That evening I read the bedding in instructions from Pagid found on-line and became worried that I messed up. I basically did a warm-up lap, then a hard braking lap, then a cool down lap with no braking.
My questions are as follows: Did I screw up my new pads? Without private track time how is it possible to follow the bedding-in instructions?
My questions are as follows: Did I screw up my new pads? Without private track time how is it possible to follow the bedding-in instructions?
#2
Rennlist Member
Your pads will be fine. Yes, trying to bed pads on the street is difficult.
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LZRD GRN (06-17-2023)
#3
Rennlist Member
The basic idea is to get some real heat in them. Some hard braking as best as you can (you don't need to come to a stop), and then some lighter applications followed by cool down..
The main things is to get a stink from the brakes, and then you can do the lighter applications and cool down.
You won't hurt them. If you do it right they are bedded in. If you don't they just aren't bedded in enough. If this is a street car and you find the brakes squealing after a while one or two hard brake applications will do the trick.. Really the same principal.
The main things is to get a stink from the brakes, and then you can do the lighter applications and cool down.
You won't hurt them. If you do it right they are bedded in. If you don't they just aren't bedded in enough. If this is a street car and you find the brakes squealing after a while one or two hard brake applications will do the trick.. Really the same principal.
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ProCoach (06-16-2023)
#4
Nordschleife Master
Procedure for both street and track. The Stoptech site has some great info.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-system-bed-in
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-system-bed-in
#5
I'm in....
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The only bad thing that usually happens if the pads are not bedded properly is uneven deposits on the rotors. This is more likely to happen if the rotors are new or you change pad types. When it happens, it can feel like you have a warped rotor, especially at turn-in.
#6
Jay, I have bedded my pagid pads on the street by finding a quiet road with no traffic, and done 60mph to 10mph decelerations 6-8 times than a couple 80mph to 10mph decelerations, then drove around for 30 minutes without using the brakes to cool them off. When I do this, I find that they don't squeal much either. I put a little permetex (high temp brake grease) on the back of the pads too, but not sure this actually helps much.
When I drive on the street for awhile, I "unbed" the pads by wearing the pad material back off of the rotors. When this happens, I get myself to the track, or just bed them again. So I would say that as long as you did not get an uneven build up of material on the rotor, so they are shuddering now, just bed them again the way you want and all should be fine.
When I drive on the street for awhile, I "unbed" the pads by wearing the pad material back off of the rotors. When this happens, I get myself to the track, or just bed them again. So I would say that as long as you did not get an uneven build up of material on the rotor, so they are shuddering now, just bed them again the way you want and all should be fine.
#7
Rennlist Member
For my Pagid yellows, I have used the interstate, either early in the AM or late at night. I have a stretch that is about 2 miles between exits. I drive at legal speed to scout the stretch to make sure that there is nothing on the side of the road or in the bushes waiting to get me. Once I know the coast is clear and there is no traffic, I do the bed in procedure.
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#8
Former Vendor
The basic idea is to get some real heat in them. Some hard braking as best as you can (you don't need to come to a stop), and then some lighter applications followed by cool down..
The main things is to get a stink from the brakes, and then you can do the lighter applications and cool down.
You won't hurt them. If you do it right they are bedded in. If you don't they just aren't bedded in enough. If this is a street car and you find the brakes squealing after a while one or two hard brake applications will do the trick.. Really the same principal.
The main things is to get a stink from the brakes, and then you can do the lighter applications and cool down.
You won't hurt them. If you do it right they are bedded in. If you don't they just aren't bedded in enough. If this is a street car and you find the brakes squealing after a while one or two hard brake applications will do the trick.. Really the same principal.
#9
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It's possible on the street without breaking the law, but you have to condense the process.
Here's a video I did on bedding in brakes. In the video I never go above 60 mph, and I'm able to get a nice pad transfer layer. The higher the temperature threshold of the pad, the more heat you have to pour into them to get them to stick to the disc face.
The idea when doing the bed-in at lower speeds is to condense the entire process and make sure the brakes are cooling down as little as possible between stops. In most cases, people don't get their brakes hot enough during the process. They start to smell the pads or see a little smoke, potentially freak out, and quit.
Going faster just makes the process quicker. A stop from 110mph down to 30mph is changing far more kinetic energy to heat vs. a stop from 60mph down to 30mph. You can still ramp the heat up enough with stops from 60mph, but you'll just need more cycles with less time between. Hopefully that makes sense.
You may find a related video I did, Swapping between street and race pads, beneficial.
Here's a video I did on bedding in brakes. In the video I never go above 60 mph, and I'm able to get a nice pad transfer layer. The higher the temperature threshold of the pad, the more heat you have to pour into them to get them to stick to the disc face.
The idea when doing the bed-in at lower speeds is to condense the entire process and make sure the brakes are cooling down as little as possible between stops. In most cases, people don't get their brakes hot enough during the process. They start to smell the pads or see a little smoke, potentially freak out, and quit.
Going faster just makes the process quicker. A stop from 110mph down to 30mph is changing far more kinetic energy to heat vs. a stop from 60mph down to 30mph. You can still ramp the heat up enough with stops from 60mph, but you'll just need more cycles with less time between. Hopefully that makes sense.
You may find a related video I did, Swapping between street and race pads, beneficial.
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Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
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jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
#10
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Most folks don't get them hot enough...
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www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#11
The Penguin King
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Or you could switch to PFC's and skip all of this entirely.