Deadeye

I was where you are two years ago (with a 993 instead of your 997) and have NO regrets. Best thing I ever did for myself. Life is short-

VaSteve

I did 3 DEs in my 911 SC before buying a 944 n/a to track. In my case, I spent about $5K on the 944 which would have been the deductible on track insurance on the 911. HP envy, yes, but I could learn with that car with no limits. Meaning, I was not afraid to push the car or myself, worried about breaking things (yes, I blew the motor on the first outing...too little oil and spun a bearing), or making those classic mistakes of yanking it back on the track if an off was imminent. Not saying you need to go buck wild, but if you're timid about getting a new rock chip in your DD, it might be the way to go.

Gary R.

Sean F. and I were exactly where you are now 6 years ago. We both had new 997S's, both goth addicted, we knew we would slowly destroy our shiny new cars and both had dedicated track cars built and never looked back. Be ready to spend if you don't already have a trailer and something adequate to pull it.. how much will be your next oyster. We were both in green in fully set up race cars, to answer your "poser" comment. As long as the instructor is safe, all is well. Some of us actually LIKE getting in properly prepared cars as long as the student's head is in it...

Start with my ready to race, ready to win car for $29,847.36!

bobt993

Dedicated track car keeps the platform consistent and allows you to get accustom to adjusting the suspension from track to track. One suggestion is to resist the lure of a high HP car. Modern is no problem, but you will progress quickly and with less drama in a moderate powered car. Your coach will be more comfortable pushing you from the right seat when the speeds are a bit less consequential.

Gary R.

Adjusting the suspension?? Bob, if you are going to start talking silly like Larry I will have to leave...

My only suspension adjustment is tire pressure!
$29,847.35 with $25K in 2011 receipts!

E55AMG

REALLY appreciate everyone's support and help!! This may be an impossible question to answer, but was wondering how long it takes to get "good". Assume there is a modicum of natural ability, a professional driver as a coach and will try for at least 15 days next year. I guess by "good" I mean solo, and doing respectable times. Not the fastest but not giving point by's to everything out there.

For a little more background and how I got to this point. I'm 47, married, 2 kids, etc. etc. I realize I don't do this for a living, don't have a sponsor (if i wrecked my 997TT), and just looking to have fun and get better.

Earlier in the fall I got a call from one of the shops I deal with telling me there was an open track day and that they would like to invite me. I found out that this was for "experienced track drivers and racers ONLY". I called them back and said thanks, but I don't think this is for me.

As I said in my 1st post I've done some schools and a day here and there. Have done Porsche's Master's class twice so I know what I don't know. I was pretty certain this event was a bit out of my league.

The guys at the shop were convinced I would be ok and that there would be pro coaching available.

My biggest concern (and still is) was to not **** anyone off or get in their way. The shop put me in contact with the pro driver and we spoke on the phone for about an hour. I went thru my concerns with him and there was a long pause. I figured, OK, here it comes. this guy is going to tell me "thanks, but no thanks - I want nothing to do with you". On the contrary, he said my attitude was exactly what he would look for in a student and If I had come on saying i've basically never driven, but i'm fast as hell, he would have passed.

That's been my attitude, although I can't say it would have been that way 20 years ago LOL.

We did two more days at another track and had some in car video this time. every lap, he would not let me get away with anything. each corner was discussed, dissected, and worked on. I have to say though, when I got home I watched the video and then looked at many, many youtube vids from this track of guys with a lot more experience. they may have bene faster, but the line I was taught was as good if not better than most of them. I was really pleased when I saw this and all the "nit picking" he did was well worth it.

Last question is to buy an older 911 track car, or get a '06 or so cayman and have it built myself? Any particular pros/cons I should be aware of with either car. I know there are lots of cars I could look at, but i'm a porsche guy and that's what i'm driving. It will be either older 911 or cayman.

I have been informed of a car for sale that I once I get some of the specs i'll post up to see what you guys think.

Gary R.

This should keep you busy for a while..

https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...-to-black.html

BrandonH

As you detect you have struck a nerve with many on the list who have been down this exact path, and you are getting good consistent advice. If it's gotta be a porsche so be it I won't start an argument except to say the the truest line ever on this topic 'you can't make a racehorse out of a pig, but you can make a really fast pig...' (Carroll Smith? Bob Akin? John Steinbeck???)

That said, I would quickly step up to address the next peril you mention on your 'Pilgrim's Progress' journey and warn you against building your own car. As a poster on this thread has already observed, there are plenty of logbook built cars out there you can buy for the price of the build or recent maintenance. Like a high-point car restoration; you pay for the work, you get the car for free. Don't do it yourself: takes too long, costs more than it needs to.
Even better, as has also been mentioned, is to buy a racecar that has already been built... by Porsche. The Cup cars, all of them, are the very best of all worlds: safe, developed, objectively prepared, great resale and in the case of the aircooled cars, collectibility.

A major question of course is will you also buy a trailer and truck. If no, that narrows your options to something you can drive to the track which might point to the PCA stock class cars.

Potomac-Greg

There are people who think it's a poseur move to pull up to any HPDE in a race car! Screw 'em. Given the commitment you will be running in advanced groups (and teaching) in no time.

If all you want to do is run in HPDEs, then maybe buy a car that's well set up for the track, but could also be an occasional weekend car that you can drive to the track. It's not about being the fastest, it's about having a car that has the capability of testing and advancing all your skills, that you don't mind beating on. You can get that in a well prepped Cayman, Boxster, Corvette, Miata.

If you want to race eventually, then do a little homework and think about what race group you will end up in.

There is NO REASON to think that you cannot be a qualified, club racer in 2012. You may not be winning, but you can be racing safely and competitively.

Astroman

Good point about the insurance. Many race cars do not have titles (can't be registered). However many do and are.

My car does have a title/license plate and "minimum coverage" so that I can drive it (legally) about 2 miles to and from my shop. Otherwise you have to put the car on the trailer to move it anywhere (PITA) or store it at a shop (if available), or do all the work and maintenance on it yourself (I wish).

Just something else to consider when you start looking...

E55AMG

yeah, 37 pages will keep me busy. I'm off to read.

Edward

This is superb advice that I had heeded long ago ...and am thankful for it! I don't particularly enjoy the loading/unloading on the trailer for an event ...it's the least favorite thing for me to do on a track weekend. So why the heck would I want to do it more often (as in if I need to go to a shop, or get gas off track, or whatever ) is how I figure it. Cheap/minimal insurance is part/parcel of the cost of tracking for me ...not "fun" but the cost of having fun

Anyone driving with a pro coach is "serious" IMHO. So that means you should get a serious car, log-booked and classified, as has been said. My advice is ask your coach what class he thinks "fits" you best, and a class that you can stay in for some time so you don't have to do the sell/buy racecar thing again. Then shop only for a prepped car in that class. You'll save money and make better progress focusing your approach this way, I think.

BTW, as a side note from a driver hack who likes to have fun with his track appliance: I'm jealous!!
Enjoy every moment of it, and make it a family thing ...you'll be better off in the short as well as long run!

Edward

J richard

IMHO...

There are few things that I will claim expertise on, blowing large sums of money on racecars is one of them... If you have the disposable income and the passion for it, a track only car, more specifically a race car is the best option with a few provisos:

1. It is affordable to run and not too precious to damage, or you won't drive it to the limit to be fast...
2. The car is too fast for you to drive at the limit, although with a coach you will have someone showing you where to push...
3. Get/buy/build/steal a completed car professionally set up so you aren't chasing handling/setup/equipment issues that take time and money away from your focus on driving...
4. Check out the groups you will be running with, rules, classes and how big the groups are so when you get to the point where you want to race you can apply your seat time directly rather than retooling yourself and a new chassis...
5. As you will be starting with more DE type events check to see if there is any issue with the local clubs and running fully caged racecars, some groups frown on it in the early run groups...

A solid spec car, 944spec, 911spec, specbox or 996spec would be my suggestion, with the class limitations you at least have a fighting chance of an even field for comparisons... The caymans are nice but can get expensive, the interseries cayman is about the cost of a slightly used cup...IMHO

VaSteve

Having had a number of years under my belt, I would advise you not to worry about this. When I started I was so "forum ready" that I was paranoid on the track. The engine is going to blow up, I'm holding people up, driving my mirrors, etc. It kept me from having the good time I paid to have.

When I have a student like that, I want them to have situational awareness, but not situational paranoia. It's not going to kill the driver behind to wait another couple second, another corner, etc. This is why we have different run groups.

As far as buying a car.....assess your mechanical ability as well. I see you're from NY. I met a guy at a DE at Summit once. He asked where did people buy tarps. I was like, seriously? He was from Manhattan and had no idea. (Titan of industry I guess). Ask the homeless! How much do you know how to fix? If you have a dedicated Cayman, are there others there that know how to fix anything, change pads, have spare parts? If you have an older car, you'll get to know others with an older car as well. Those people often have spares.

The nice thing about having and older car if something breaks, you might still be able to handle it. When I was at NJMP, my 944 electric trunk release broke. It wouldn't have been a big deal until time to go home the next day except, my helmet was back there. I couldn't pull it through the roll bar. I had to take the passenger seat out and crawl through the cage to open the hatch. I spent the rest of the weekend with a wire hanging out the back, duct taped to the body.

vantage

Ditto Randy's comments (sorry if I missed someone)...it's a lot easier to build a car with all the safety equipment you need with a dedicated track car. Cage, harnesses, HANS, etc. Your street car will never be as safe IMO.