Need input on brake pad alternatives
#16
Actually, they do serve another purpose and should NOT just be randomly cut out or removed. They create an air gap insulating the plastic ABS wheel speed sensor, the rubber suspension link boots, ball joint boots, etc from the potential 500 + degree heat created by the brake rotors. At the temperatures the brakes run, without the shield to create the air gap, these plastic and rubber components would not last long at all.
#17
Three Wheelin'
I drive a heavy 996TT. I've been using Pagid yellows up front and Pagid blacks on the rears for a couple of seasons now. I like the long life I get from this combination but lately I've been wanting more bite. My tech suggested putting Pagid blacks up front as well, but told me the longevity would not be anywhere near what the yellows will give.
#18
Rennlist Member
Actually, they do serve another purpose and should NOT just be randomly cut out or removed. They create an air gap insulating the plastic ABS wheel speed sensor, the rubber suspension link boots, ball joint boots, etc from the potential 500 + degree heat created by the brake rotors. At the temperatures the brakes run, without the shield to create the air gap, these plastic and rubber components would not last long at all.
#20
Rennlist Member
Larry:
Try the RS14 up front. You will like them but they will wear faster. A good alternative from Performance Friction would be to run the PF06 in front and PF01 in rear. PFC's answer to running the RS19/29 front, RS14 rear combo when using Pagids.
Try the RS14 up front. You will like them but they will wear faster. A good alternative from Performance Friction would be to run the PF06 in front and PF01 in rear. PFC's answer to running the RS19/29 front, RS14 rear combo when using Pagids.
#22
Actually, they do serve another purpose and should NOT just be randomly cut out or removed. They create an air gap insulating the plastic ABS wheel speed sensor, the rubber suspension link boots, ball joint boots, etc from the potential 500 + degree heat created by the brake rotors. At the temperatures the brakes run, without the shield to create the air gap, these plastic and rubber components would not last long at all.
#24
For the 996/997/986/987 P-cars, use the GT2 shield or cut yours to follow suit. I actually have a drawing of the differences between the standard 996 and the 996 GT2 model. It allows more air but still offers the obvious air gap/heat protection.
You can also do the NASCAR trick and wrap all the rubber boots in fire wrap, that works too. Some of the newer P-cars actually have a fire wrap for the ABS speed sensor lead.
#25
#26
Race Director
You are just not driving flat out. I can help you with that.
For the 996/997/986/987 P-cars, use the GT2 shield or cut yours to follow suit. I actually have a drawing of the differences between the standard 996 and the 996 GT2 model. It allows more air but still offers the obvious air gap/heat protection.
You can also do the NASCAR trick and wrap all the rubber boots in fire wrap, that works too. Some of the newer P-cars actually have a fire wrap for the ABS speed sensor lead.
For the 996/997/986/987 P-cars, use the GT2 shield or cut yours to follow suit. I actually have a drawing of the differences between the standard 996 and the 996 GT2 model. It allows more air but still offers the obvious air gap/heat protection.
You can also do the NASCAR trick and wrap all the rubber boots in fire wrap, that works too. Some of the newer P-cars actually have a fire wrap for the ABS speed sensor lead.
mdrums@me.com
thanks!
#29
Rennlist Member
I've been using Hawk's DTC70 pads and have been impressed with the results and wear. They are much like a PFC01 with bite/pedal feel and cheaper. Before the switch I was using their HT-10 compound and was equally impressed, but made sure I cleaned my wheels as soon as I got home.
Not sure you saw this past Grassroots motorsports article on brakes pads, but it's worth a read.
-Paddy
Not sure you saw this past Grassroots motorsports article on brakes pads, but it's worth a read.
-Paddy
#30
Rennlist Member
Uh hun.
I do, every time I prep the car for an event. I routinely replace them every couple of years anyway, and they are in great shape whhen I ttake them off. Just saying...
IMO you cannot remove them completely (at least on an M3). I only cup off the parts of each one that allow this. Some parts of the shield (on the M3) still remain, and these parts are immediately around the ABS sensors (I checked last night). Again, not sure what it looks like underneath a 911. However, I did recently work with 2 clients in 993's (for example) and both had huge shields especially in the front. Plenty of material to remove for MUCH better air flow w/o compromisiing ABS integrity.
I do, every time I prep the car for an event. I routinely replace them every couple of years anyway, and they are in great shape whhen I ttake them off. Just saying...
IMO you cannot remove them completely (at least on an M3). I only cup off the parts of each one that allow this. Some parts of the shield (on the M3) still remain, and these parts are immediately around the ABS sensors (I checked last night). Again, not sure what it looks like underneath a 911. However, I did recently work with 2 clients in 993's (for example) and both had huge shields especially in the front. Plenty of material to remove for MUCH better air flow w/o compromisiing ABS integrity.