onefastviking

Actually, they do serve another purpose and should NOT just be randomly cut out or removed. They create an air gap insulating the plastic ABS wheel speed sensor, the rubber suspension link boots, ball joint boots, etc from the potential 500 + degree heat created by the brake rotors. At the temperatures the brakes run, without the shield to create the air gap, these plastic and rubber components would not last long at all.

cello

I've run Blacks all around (997.2S) for the past two years. They dont wear down/out as quickly in the front as some think but longevity is of course heavily dependent upon braking technique. They have great initial bite and can be modulated especially if bedded in properly. As you know (having run them in the rear), they aren't as good after the 50% mark or so as all have noted, need to be out once the material is backing plate thickness, and they do score and eat up rotors (OEM in my case).

Veloce Raptor

Hmm. I've had zero problems with any of these parts on my M3, and the shields have been gone for ~7 years. 'Course, I don't use my brakes all thhat much.

sig_a

Using black Pagid front and back makes for balanced performance and they pull up very quickly. Easy on my rotors. No ill effect from dust on anodized rims.

Carrera51

Larry:
Try the RS14 up front. You will like them but they will wear faster. A good alternative from Performance Friction would be to run the PF06 in front and PF01 in rear. PFC's answer to running the RS19/29 front, RS14 rear combo when using Pagids.

TrackDays247.com

The bite & release are soooo quick and precise.

eric523

exactly. Those lower control arm balljoint boots won't last more than a couple days if you take them off and run that heavy car hard.

eric523

I'm a pagid black fan. Can't say the same for the yellows, just a completely different feel to them. I'd recommend giving the blacks a try.

onefastviking

You are just not driving flat out. I can help you with that.

For the 996/997/986/987 P-cars, use the GT2 shield or cut yours to follow suit. I actually have a drawing of the differences between the standard 996 and the 996 GT2 model. It allows more air but still offers the obvious air gap/heat protection.
You can also do the NASCAR trick and wrap all the rubber boots in fire wrap, that works too. Some of the newer P-cars actually have a fire wrap for the ABS speed sensor lead.

onefastviking

Oh, and you should go back and check all your boots.

mdrums

Can you send me those drawings of the GT2 heat shield?
mdrums@me.com

thanks!

onefastviking

I'll have to dig up my drawing, not tonight, but will do.

bobt993

I agree with Viking on this. Your asking for problems if you remove the shields completely. ABS sensors take a beating without them.

Paddy

I've been using Hawk's DTC70 pads and have been impressed with the results and wear. They are much like a PFC01 with bite/pedal feel and cheaper. Before the switch I was using their HT-10 compound and was equally impressed, but made sure I cleaned my wheels as soon as I got home.

Not sure you saw this past Grassroots motorsports article on brakes pads, but it's worth a read.

-Paddy

Veloce Raptor

Uh hun.

I do, every time I prep the car for an event. I routinely replace them every couple of years anyway, and they are in great shape whhen I ttake them off. Just saying...

IMO you cannot remove them completely (at least on an M3). I only cup off the parts of each one that allow this. Some parts of the shield (on the M3) still remain, and these parts are immediately around the ABS sensors (I checked last night). Again, not sure what it looks like underneath a 911. However, I did recently work with 2 clients in 993's (for example) and both had huge shields especially in the front. Plenty of material to remove for MUCH better air flow w/o compromisiing ABS integrity.