acao

Here's how I have it mounted in my 997.1:
This is the OBDII plug


This is the cable being clipped to the driver's lower trim panel. You can spot the fancy hardware.


This is cable being clipped to the center console carpet panel. More fancy mounting hardware.


And here's the unit:


The cable is routed from the OBDII port, along the lower trim panel, and down the center console trim panel. From there, the cable passes through the back (toward the front of the car) of the center console and into the passenger's footwell. The excess cable is tie-wrapped and sits behind the center console, out of sight.

I originally had a Solo mounted in the driver's area, beneath the windshield wiper stalk. I couldn't see it there, which was fine. When I got the Solo DL, the same mounting spot did not work because the cable end would poke into my right knee. That was extremely annoying, not to mention potentially very painful and damaging in a sudden deceleration event.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, GPS values are correct, as are speed, RPM, and coolant temp (via OBDII). TPS is incorrectly interpreted by the Aim's software, and PPS is not seen. TPS and PPS are standard OBDII fields and are seen by Durametric (as well as emissions inspectors too, I presume). Hoping for a software update from Aim sometime to resolve this. For me, I suppose it'll be a race to see whether Jerry completes his CAN grafting tools before Aim updates its software.

fatbillybob

Someone on another forum where there are no DAQ pros:"The accelerometers need to be calibrated. My first run had my lateral and longitudinal accelerations were about -3.5 G while at rest. They can be calibrated in Race Studio. Select "Device Calibration". "

So do we need to calibrate the solo on every use? Just one time in the car? What are the conditions for calibration?

amso3

FBB

You should only need to calibrate one time (I do not know why all come from Italy at around 4 G's, see the first photo below). Do it in the mounted position, as that has a direct affect on G's. The SOLO has two different G measurements. One set is GPS driven and the other is internal. I have found that some Smarty Cameras do need occasional "re-calibration" but never need to re-calibrate the Pista dashes.

ACAO

I am following up on conversations we've had about OBD vs CAN connections for the DL. I currently have a 05 997 C2S at my shop and hooked up a DL with OBD then CAN for a comparison. You are correct, the only OBD protocol that works is the ISO9141_2. The first image below shows the "Online" screen with the engine power on and not running, but at full throttle. As you stated, full throttle (TPS) shows up as 85% and PPS shows ERR.

The next picture shows the"Online" screen shot connected to the CAN (I used 997_GT 3 protocol). Now both TPS and PPS are at 100%+. The CAN data also provides steering angle (Carerra S w/ stability management), additional engine temps, oil pressure, brake switch, gear (did not drive the car to verify this, but I doubt it works, SOLO lets you run a gear calibration so no big deal) and all four wheel speed sensors.

acao

Knowing I'm not crazy (or at least not alone in my crazy) is some relief. Let me know how your project goes.

utkinpol

I like this way to mount it. I was thinking to do something about getting it on a left pillar or side air vent grill, will think about it.

I would recommend everybody to change connection to CAN bus. AiM cannot provide brake pedal position from ODB2 port, as soon as you will try to work on your braking it will come as an obstacle. also i believe throttle application is a bit delayed from ODB2 port, it is not so visible on a track but when i look at my AX runs recorded by smartycam i do see some slight offset. GPS data and gyroscopes are always dead on but throttle was not always in sync. I hope SOLO unit connected to CAN will fix this.

BTW if you had a chance to see - does SOLO unit compute active gear number properly or not? my smartycam was never able to do it consistently no matter how i tried to follow instructions.

of your throttle % question - from ODB2 port is never goes to 0 and never goes to 100% at WOT. My assumption was that ODB2 signal not show throttle pedal position but actual position of throtle body valve.
For smartycam I had to adjust upper scale limit to have slider fully lit at WOT but i never was able to adjust it to empty bar when pedal was not pressed, i believe idle throttle will always show up.

ProCoach

This is the ONLY way that AiM recommends connecting the Solo DL.

Obviously, ACAO has found some of the info present on the OBD-II J1979M port, but if you follow the directions, AiM provides instructions for the CAN connection.

While I've not tried the calculated gear position feature, it's a simple function based on rpm and vehicle speed...

Matt Romanowski

You can do a lot of work on your braking using just long G and mph info. Brake pressures is not the most important thing.

For throttle position, as long as it's consistent, the absolute number doesn't really matter. I know it's annoying, but it doesn't change what you can get from the data.

Neel Apex

Matt, I appreciate what you're saying, and at the AIM's price point its a great thing. I run a SOLO on my own race car. But I find myself wishing I had brake pressure all the time, and will probably upgrade to an EVO4 with brake pressure. Brake pressure really helps you see some easy things, like the interaction of throttle and brake, the shape of your pressure curve and how trailbraking effects car balance.

That said, we have sold a lot of SOLO's and SOLO DL's this holiday season, and you can't beat the value. All 4 of our techs have been using AIM and been helping with phone & email support; I have to say its so simple most calls are less than 2 minutes!

I question why you'd mount it to the right of the radio. I use the AIM windshield mount and keep it right on the bottom left of my windshield so I can see the lap gain/loss out of the corner of my eye without shifting my attention and having to refocus.

-Neel

Matt Romanowski

No doubt the pressures are better to have than just Long G and MPH. To be able to look at exact pressure builds and rate, bias, and constinency would be great.

utkinpol

i really dislike windshield mount as i had smartycam on one for a while but issue is - first of all on hot days it may come off, plus when car shakes no matter what you do this mount moves a bit and gyroscopes get out of calibration so you need to recalibrate them after each run and it becomes a hassle plus it sucks to look at video later and see how Gs readings migrate slowly and initial 0 becomes like, -0.7 at the end of the run.
mount must be attached to something solid, IMHO, it is the best way. i`m just not sure yet what is possible to get access to without having to cut too much to have SOLO unit in the left corner in a 996/997 car.

ProCoach

This has been my experience, especially working with cars without integral brake pressure information on the CANbus (which is most cars here). The simple linearity and slope angle over distance of an mph trace through a braking zone or in comparison to other braking zones is FULL of tremendous information, as or more valuable than brake pressure, IMO. Same with the shape of acceleration (speed vs distance) upward through a corner or complex of corners in place of throttle position.

While I agree with Neel's observations, I respectfully disagree that brake pressure is a requirement to "see" these three observations.

Neel, in coming "down" from fully instrumented, purpose-built MoTeC installs (the ultimate) to the LCD (lowest common denominator), the AiM Solo, it would be natural to want a little more of what is an important measure on the "big" systems (even an Evo4 with brake pressure sensors, throttle position and steering angle is a "big" system compared to the Solo, Traqmate or VBOX Lite systems <grin>)

My experience, going "up" from all-in-one boxes without sensor inputs (or installs without sensor or CANbus inputs AND from just a few short years ago) to systems like the EVO 3 Pro and MoTeC, is one that allows me to "fill in more detail" and confirm from several different angles the observed and absolute performance parameters. It's fun and a great learning experience!

The most important measure is the end result. Whether that be the stopwatch (lap times), shapes and patterns of X-Y graphs (velocity vs distance, time slip) or the actual deceleration rate in g's throughout the most frangible and variable of driver control inputs (braking), it's the actual measure of efficiency of a driver to be able to see the end result.

I can certainly see, with throttle application and long g, the interaction between throttle and brakes. I can see through the rate and consistency of deceleration (long g) the "shape" of brake application (higher is better, trailing off in aero cars, less so in non-aero cars) and I can see the effect of trail braking through a simple g-g (combined g) graph or friction circle animation.

There was a reason why Buddy Fey came up with the standard measure of a percentage of lateral g being the target of longitudinal g achievement, depending on tires and whether it was a sports racing/formula car or GT car measured.

Again, for a majority of drivers here (and I would argue most drivers that have more variation than tenths of a second between four consecutive laps on any circuit), brake pressure is not required.

If you want to "see" or gauge the increase of cF (manifested in increased stopping power measure through the comparison between brake pedal pressure and longitudinal g over distance) in your Pagid Orange or Performance Friction 06 over the entire course of a longer brake zone, or if you're looking to SET initially or continuously fine-tune your bias (using wheel speed sensors to gauge result and identify threshold braking/tire slip as well), THEN a brake pressure addition is a good addition.

What we can all agree on is that the tech gets simpler to use, more accurate and less expensive ALL the time... Isn't that the best thing?

Matt Romanowski

^^No doubt on the technology getting cheaper and allowing more people to have it!

I think what you, Neel, and I are all saying is pretty similar, with different methods of getting to to it. We are all looking at improving braking, trailing off to corner entry, and the applying the throttle. What I've noticed, even through all the current books, is that everyone ends up with a different way of doing this. Some people like to only look at long and lat G, some look at MPH more, some look at throttle and brake inputs, and some a mix of all of those. Either way, like you said, it's the end result that matters.

Dr.Bill

Exactly - what they need is a good solid mount that does not require permanent modification of the vehicle.

amso3

l like the 3 M Dual Lock tape. It holds really well and the unit can be removed (and the tape can be remove too, but it is very strong). If you have a flat surface and want to mount a SOLO or a DL check this out http://www.itapestore.com/3mduallockfasteners.aspx
If you want enough to mount yours but don't want to buy a bunch, e-mail me at jandsaustin1 at verizon.net and I'll send you some.

acao

I use Dual Lock on my mount. The adhesive is really strong, as is the "velcro." When I moved the unit's location, these attachments made me want to quit. Best bet for removal is to wait for an extremely hot or cold day and use a credit card or spread knife to shear the adhesive. Then pull the Dual Lock apart by rolling an edge away from the other side in a curved plane. You will never separate the Dual Lock's faces while they're parallel. The best part is not only is it mounted, but Dual Lock allows virtually no wobble.

Don't do like I did and use a whole strip. Two 1" squares is plenty.

Radio Shack carries it in black and clear, less than $5 and you'll leave with 3 pairs of strips plus a 4 foot long receipt. Just avoid the cell phone pushers there.