ohenryinatlanta

i have a question about wheel strap placement.

one of my cars sits pretty low and to get the straps to clear the front lower valance/airdam/bumper the wheel straps need to be in the 6.5 o'clock position on the wheel. now i know the lower the position the greater the risk of the wheel spinning and the straps becoming loose....

i've seen cars "lifted" with 6x4 piece of would to add angle clearance. is this safe ?

jrgordonsenior

I take it your straps are running completely thru the wheel. You can just run them around a spoke or 2 returning to the outside. That should keep the strap clear of the front spoiler if I understand your problem correctly...

Ritter v4.0

I have similar problem. V.low car on short trailer. You could do as you've proposed and provided the planks don't slide I don't see the problem- but you'd have to make sure that they don't.

But here's another possibly better idea that was suggested to me that I intend to implement. If your securing d-rings are dead ahead of the front wheels like mine, try a second set off to each side but still forward of the wheels. This will allow you to bypass the front bumper and spoiler and thus much easier access to the wheels at the preferred 8-9pm position.

fly2low

PitPal makes a short ramp which has a built in stop and raises the car enough to get the dtraps on/ Worked great for me
http://www.pitpal.com/products/Sport...s-1106-37.html

KaiB

DOH!!! Dang!

Yew'd think a dumb ole' farmer woulda thunk this one out....but no.

Thanks J.R.

jrgordonsenior

I do that with my rears and it works well. Remember to go thru the spoke (s) that are facing your D-ring at an angle. For my rears that means about the 7-8 position, fronts about 4-5.

To clear my front WSC splitter which barely allows a flat 2x4 to clear(1.5"), I place the hook BEHIND the front jacking point not into the actual jacking point hole. It's open and the strap hook goes in deeper than possible by hooking into the hole itself. You can just kneel by the front wheel and with strap hook in hand and use a finger to find the back of the jacking point then just slide the clip in. Sort of like sex only without the lies. It's really easy to hook up even kneeling in a trailer....

RickBetterley

Good ol' PitPal - a good idea undoubtedly well made and $219!!

ohenryinatlanta

so your going thru the spoke on the opposite side of the D ring ?

jrgordonsenior

No closest to the d-ring, and at a taut, straight angel to the d-ring. The intent is to prevent the wheel rotating from the forces of the strap....

Ritter v4.0

Consider these as well.
I have their ramps and they are excellent.
http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-mates-front.aspx

xsboost90

let me insert my very complex paint diagram here of how i worked out strapping down a low car- on an open trailer. First you would have to have hooks under the car which a 944 does. Then hooks on the front of the trailer. Next pull the car onto the trailer approximately where you would load it and mark almost directly under the hooks on the front of the car- but maybe forward just alittle. Pull the car off and attach some loop mounts to these areas w/ bolts/ welds etc.- then when you strap the car down you can put the ratchet end in front of the car horizontally and the strap side will go through the new loops, then straight up to the car- pulling it down tight to the bed of the trailer when you strap it down. No scratches on the wheels either.

Coochas

I used their front trailer mates oon my old open trailer because I couldn't open the car door without hitting the trailer. They worked great and also made tying down the fronts easier with the added height.

KOAN

Like Coochas, I built plywood ramps that lift my car about 8 inches, and now the anchor points are very easy to reach. I can even cross the front straps. the ramps are about 6 ft long, and don't move at all during loading or transport.

Ritter v4.0

8" sounds quite high- how did you decide on that height- wouldn't 3-4" do it?

KOAN

It made it that much easier to reach under to attach the straps. In an enclosed trailer, it is difficult to reach in from the sides, so going in under the front is the only way. So, now I have about 12" of clearance to reach in about 2 feet. Also, the ratchets do not come close to the front spoiler. The extra inches don't cost anything, but just make things easier. There is a flat landing on top of the ramps, so the car is quite stable. I tow with no parking brake and with the car in neutral, and have never had a problem.