low car on a trailer question and strap placement
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA (USA)
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Extended Length Race Ramps Trailer Mates
Reverse Logic Limited had Race Ramps make a custom version of the front trailer mates that are 52" long by 12" wide. The tire cradle is just under 3" high, and the incline angle starts at 4˚ and sweeps up to about 8˚. So the ramps will fit under a lower car than the standard Race Ramps trailer mates. The cradle of the front trailer ramps and the platform of the rear trailer mates are reinforced.
We offer the RLL-TM-XL for $218/pair including shipping.
The drawing shows a comparison between the standard Trailer Mate and the XL version.
We offer the RLL-TM-XL for $218/pair including shipping.
The drawing shows a comparison between the standard Trailer Mate and the XL version.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; 10-05-2011 at 05:29 PM.
#21
Rennlist Member
I took a slightly different approach with my Trailex and my Spec Boxster which has an extremely low ride height. I wanted to use only straps through the wheels and I did not want to pull the wheels any direction other than directly forward. This meant I could not use the installed factory Trailex front D-Rings which are mounted near the center line of the trailer as they would pull the wheels inward. I had the additional problem that my car sits really far forward on the trailer to maintain tongue weight, so I did not have a lot of room to work with in front of the car either.
Here is what I came up with: I mounted a rectangular-style D-ring to be used as an idler on the trailer directly in front of the front wheel. I then routed the tie-down strap that connects to the wheel strap through the D-ring and parallel down the front of the trailer to a lashing winch that I mounted on the trailer in a spot I can easily reach while the car is on the trailer. This arrangement (a) lets me use straps through the wheels, (b) allows for the straps through the front wheels to pull straight ahead, putting no side load on the alignment, (c) keeps the straps really low so they do not interfere with the car’s front spoiler, and (d) keeps the straps nice and tidy everywhere.
Photos:
1 - shows the car pulled back so you can see how things are set up. The loop goes through the wheel. The lashing winch is mounted near the center of the trailer where it is easy to get to.
2 - is a close-up of the lashing winch. This thing is great! It uses a fraction of the space that the normal ratchets do and you simply use a socket wrench to tighten it down. You can locate lashing winches almost anywhere.
3 - is a close-up of the wheel strap and D-ring idler with the car strapped down normally
4 - shows what the car looks like strapped down to the trailer and how little space I have up front
All of the items I used for this solution are available from Mac’s Custom Tie-Downs who I recommend highly!
Kevin
Here is what I came up with: I mounted a rectangular-style D-ring to be used as an idler on the trailer directly in front of the front wheel. I then routed the tie-down strap that connects to the wheel strap through the D-ring and parallel down the front of the trailer to a lashing winch that I mounted on the trailer in a spot I can easily reach while the car is on the trailer. This arrangement (a) lets me use straps through the wheels, (b) allows for the straps through the front wheels to pull straight ahead, putting no side load on the alignment, (c) keeps the straps really low so they do not interfere with the car’s front spoiler, and (d) keeps the straps nice and tidy everywhere.
Photos:
1 - shows the car pulled back so you can see how things are set up. The loop goes through the wheel. The lashing winch is mounted near the center of the trailer where it is easy to get to.
2 - is a close-up of the lashing winch. This thing is great! It uses a fraction of the space that the normal ratchets do and you simply use a socket wrench to tighten it down. You can locate lashing winches almost anywhere.
3 - is a close-up of the wheel strap and D-ring idler with the car strapped down normally
4 - shows what the car looks like strapped down to the trailer and how little space I have up front
All of the items I used for this solution are available from Mac’s Custom Tie-Downs who I recommend highly!
Kevin
#22
Addicted Specialist
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Dumb Question but hoping you guys can answer this:
How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??
Edward
How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??
Edward
#23
Dumb Question but hoping you guys can answer this:
How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??
Edward
How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??
Edward
#24
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Really?!!! I've always strapped the car down in 1st gear and parking brake snug (if not one-click extra snug) figuring the car is best if it stays put, thus putting the least amount of load on straps (not to mention minimize shifting weight on an already moving object which can build momentum). This is wrong? ...why?
Edward
Edward
#26
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How come, Bill? Doesn't being in gear help assure she ain't a goin no where ...or more accurately, that it helps control movement, thus minimizing load on the straps?
Edward
Edward
#27
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deep Downtown Carrier, OK
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The general concern with leaving the car in gear is shock to the tranny and engine. The loaded drivetrain will not prevent the car from moving should forces become great enough, and you don't want these translated through the box.