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low car on a trailer question and strap placement

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Old 10-05-2011, 01:33 PM
  #16  
Fred@ReverseLogic
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Default Extended Length Race Ramps Trailer Mates

Reverse Logic Limited had Race Ramps make a custom version of the front trailer mates that are 52" long by 12" wide. The tire cradle is just under 3" high, and the incline angle starts at 4˚ and sweeps up to about 8˚. So the ramps will fit under a lower car than the standard Race Ramps trailer mates. The cradle of the front trailer ramps and the platform of the rear trailer mates are reinforced.

We offer the RLL-TM-XL for $218/pair including shipping.

The drawing shows a comparison between the standard Trailer Mate and the XL version.

Originally Posted by Coochas
I used their front trailer mates oon my old open trailer because I couldn't open the car door without hitting the trailer. They worked great and also made tying down the fronts easier with the added height.
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Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; 10-05-2011 at 05:29 PM.
Old 10-05-2011, 04:19 PM
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wanna911
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I stuck a couple of 4x2 under the front wheels, did the trick for me.
Old 10-05-2011, 04:26 PM
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Bill Verburg
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Here's what one fella did


My solution was to tie to carabiners attached to the chassis
Old 10-05-2011, 04:52 PM
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KOAN
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I did that on my open trailer. On the trailex, the tie downs are down low, and it is easy to get under from the front or from the side.
Old 10-05-2011, 05:41 PM
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MJHanna
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I just use a tie down that replaces one of the wheel nuts, It like this but for a 911. one on each frt wheel and I don't have to fish under the front of the car.
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:05 PM
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longhorn911
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I took a slightly different approach with my Trailex and my Spec Boxster which has an extremely low ride height. I wanted to use only straps through the wheels and I did not want to pull the wheels any direction other than directly forward. This meant I could not use the installed factory Trailex front D-Rings which are mounted near the center line of the trailer as they would pull the wheels inward. I had the additional problem that my car sits really far forward on the trailer to maintain tongue weight, so I did not have a lot of room to work with in front of the car either.

Here is what I came up with: I mounted a rectangular-style D-ring to be used as an idler on the trailer directly in front of the front wheel. I then routed the tie-down strap that connects to the wheel strap through the D-ring and parallel down the front of the trailer to a lashing winch that I mounted on the trailer in a spot I can easily reach while the car is on the trailer. This arrangement (a) lets me use straps through the wheels, (b) allows for the straps through the front wheels to pull straight ahead, putting no side load on the alignment, (c) keeps the straps really low so they do not interfere with the car’s front spoiler, and (d) keeps the straps nice and tidy everywhere.

Photos:

1 - shows the car pulled back so you can see how things are set up. The loop goes through the wheel. The lashing winch is mounted near the center of the trailer where it is easy to get to.

2 - is a close-up of the lashing winch. This thing is great! It uses a fraction of the space that the normal ratchets do and you simply use a socket wrench to tighten it down. You can locate lashing winches almost anywhere.

3 - is a close-up of the wheel strap and D-ring idler with the car strapped down normally

4 - shows what the car looks like strapped down to the trailer and how little space I have up front

All of the items I used for this solution are available from Mac’s Custom Tie-Downs who I recommend highly!

Kevin
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:09 PM
  #22  
Edward
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Dumb Question but hoping you guys can answer this:

How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??

Edward
Old 10-06-2011, 09:46 AM
  #23  
MJHanna
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Originally Posted by Edward
Dumb Question but hoping you guys can answer this:

How much load really goes onto the straps, rings, etc. when cinching down the car? I ask because I wonder home much "work" the staps, etc. do to "hold" the car in place, or is the car truly pretty stable/static under transport and the straps are there more for "insurance"??

Edward
If you towing a car that is placed in neutral the straps are doing all the work of holding the car in place. Having the car in gear is not recommended for towing.
Old 10-06-2011, 08:19 PM
  #24  
Edward
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Originally Posted by MJHanna
...Having the car in gear is not recommended for towing.
Really?!!! I've always strapped the car down in 1st gear and parking brake snug (if not one-click extra snug) figuring the car is best if it stays put, thus putting the least amount of load on straps (not to mention minimize shifting weight on an already moving object which can build momentum). This is wrong? ...why?

Edward
Old 10-06-2011, 08:30 PM
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Bill Verburg
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neutral w/ parking brake on
Old 10-07-2011, 01:57 AM
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Edward
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How come, Bill? Doesn't being in gear help assure she ain't a goin no where ...or more accurately, that it helps control movement, thus minimizing load on the straps?

Edward
Old 10-07-2011, 06:22 AM
  #27  
KaiB
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Originally Posted by Edward
How come, Bill? Doesn't being in gear help assure she ain't a goin no where ...or more accurately, that it helps control movement, thus minimizing load on the straps?

Edward
It's back to the 'ole "search and ye shall find" thing.

The general concern with leaving the car in gear is shock to the tranny and engine. The loaded drivetrain will not prevent the car from moving should forces become great enough, and you don't want these translated through the box.
Old 10-07-2011, 08:37 PM
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Edward
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Gotcha! Thanks for that

Edward



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