Crazy Canuck

Next week I'm having a set of Moton Clubsports (2way adj) put on my 996 GT3 along with 800#/1000# springs.

Car is essentially stock other than seats and a bar.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what settings the shocks should be set at initially to reduce the setup learning curve?

Thanks in advance.

Larry Herman

If they are the new 15 click model, then I would start with 7 on the bump and 6 on the rebound.

4porsh

Try:

Front= 150 psi, 3 clicks on compression(cans), 4 clicks rebound(struts).

Rear= 175 psi, 3 clicks on compression, 5 on rebound.

or call Lex at Moton 1-770-886-8777.



p.s this is with the 7 click CS

Crazy Canuck

They are the new Clubsports. Bought them on the group buy just before Christmas. Was in no rush to get them installed with 2' of snow on the ground.

I would think they are the new 15 click model.

Thanks Larry. BTW your articles are very enlightening.

Larry Herman

Thanks Chris. I agree on the 150/175 canister pressure and also on the advice to call Lex. I do think that most however, run too much rebound because they like that clamped down feeling, but it is not faster.

Veloce Raptor

Actually, I am going to be a contrarian here. I agree on the 150/175 pressures. However, if you are new to these Motons on this car, I would recommend you start both compression & reboud on all 4 corners at like 2 or 3 (out of 15). Then, start raising compression in 2 or 3 click increments in the front, and then in the rear. Note how the car changes, corner by corner, in all aspects of the corner (hard brake, transition, rolling, throttle,, track out, etc.). Then go back to the starting settings & do the same with rebound.

IMO there is no short cut to learning, for yourself, in your own car, on a track you know, what the clicks do. Starting in the middle is too easy a place to get complacent, since it will likely feel pretty decent. JMHO...the full learning curve is the best way to get your money's worth out of your investment. There are plenty of online "cheat sheets" to tell you what to change if your car is doing such and such...I can even email you some...but learning the initial set up is worth its weight in gold. Don't short change yourself.








Professional Racing and Driving Coach

Crazy Canuck

OK makes sense. would be good to see what is the effect of a change.

cheat sheets welcome to cmilosek @ primotrailersales.com

THanks.

jrgordonsenior

Moton's PDF says 185 lbs in all cannisters, rebound 3, bump 2 both from soft.....

Crazy Canuck

Where is this PDF you speak of?

onefastviking

Here ya go ......

http://www.motonsuspension.com/downl...ub%20Sport.pdf


Lex at Moton is the best, his experience can be very helpful. Although I too agree with VR and would even say to start at the lowest settings and work your way up 2 clicks at a time initially and then when you get closer 1 click. It will be a very valuable learning experience for you. It also is critical to allow yourself the proper amount of time on track to set up correctly. You need many sessions of a few laps , make a change, go out and feel the change, come in and change again, then drive again, keep repeating until you understand the differences and feel them.

brucegre

Sorry Chris, I'm going to be much more evil than VR on the setup stuff. You will bring the car to the track, set up as suggested, then I'm going to change your shock settings and you're going to drive the car and tell me what it's doing differently and what you think I changed. Then I'll tell you what I changed. We go through this for a few iterations and you'll have a very visceral understanding of what mucking with the shock settings can do. Besides, it'll make for an enjoyable day for one of us

333pg333

I wonder what it would be like to make more radical changes such as start on the softest settings and then go out on the hardest next? Then work inwards as opposed to just stronger in small increments. The reason I say this is that for many amateurs going up in small increments mightn't be easy to distinguish the differences. Whereas going from one extreme to the other and then in towards the center might sort of allow you to 'surround' the setting you like the best. Not sure if that's crazy theory...just an idea.

jerome951

I'm with VR and Viking on the dial-in procedure. Start soft and gradually increase bump until the car starts to stake in corners, then back off 1 click. Then gradually increase rebound to elminate the floating. Be sure to do this with the sways disconnected.

This method tunes you as much as the car. When switching tracks and settings, you need to know what to feel for before making adjustments.

Veloce Raptor

OK...will email them later today.









Professional Racing and Driving Coach

onefastviking

Radical changes like that wouldn't help learn. And you really need to dial one setting in first and then work the other.
I have never had a driver that couldn't feel the difference between 2 clicks, it really makes a difference and helps the learning curve. It does help if you have a coach/mechanic/etc available to assist you that can also technically question and discuss what is happening. There will be a difference sometimes at different sections of the corner which is very critical for correctly tuning the car. Paying someone that knows and understands what and why it is happening here can save you much frustration, and many slower laps.