FilthyF14

considering moving to a trailer and towing to the track. Car weighs about 3200# and assume an open steel trailer weighs about 1000#. My old Durango rated to tow #4700 - but considering a replacement vehicle. Don't really want to go with a full-size truck or SUV but will a mid-size handle the load? Lots to choose from; Dakota, Exterra, Explorer, Tacoma, 4Runner, ..... all rated to tow 5000# with similar HP and torque. Will it work?
Thanks

Circuit Motorsports

Most open steel trailers are more like 1500 and if they're full deck they are more like 2000.

Apex Rex

I would look into a 2005 or newer Tacoma out of that group, since they have a tow capacity around 6500lbs depending on options. I would also recommend trying to find a used open aluminum trailer for that setup as well.

CWhaley

A steel trailer will come in much closer to the 2k point. Even a full decked aluminum trailer will hit the 1400 lb mark... Get a tow RIG that is rated at 6500 and over!

ervtx

I have a 2-axle 18-foot steel flatbed which is rather short as toy haulers go, and it weighs in at 2200 lbs (includes two steel ramps).

Do the math:

Car: 3200 lbs.
Trailer: 2200 lbs.

<already over the towing capacity of the mid-sized SUV's mentioned>

Extra gear you absolutely need for the trailer, but is often not considered until after the first mishap:

2 spare Trailer Tires: 100 lbs.
jack/stands: 50 lbs.

Extra gear you end up taking along with you (because with a trailer, you can). In my case, an extra set of wheels/tires

4 wheels/tires: 200 lbs.

Last, but not least, the people and cargo inside the tow vehicle count against the towing capacity.

1 person + personal gear: 300 lbs.

The total can easily exceed 6000 lbs. I don't think those mid-sized SUVs even have options for transmission coolers, so in addition to the safety issues of towing over capacity, you're likely to burn up the transmission. Obtain an estimate for the price of a rebuilt transmission for those cars and use that money instead to either buy an aluminum trailer, or a bigger tow vehicle.

M758

For towing a car on an open trailer my general rule is

300ft-lbs of torque and 6500 lbs towing capacity.


300ftlbs of torque will get you enough motor to not struggle. I towed with 4.0L Jeep motor. It did not have 300ft-lbs and worked hard towing.

The 6500lbs capacity should get you enough to tow a 5000lbs trailer with some margin. Most cars are 3000lbs and trailers are 1000-1500lbs. Putting you at 4500lbs. Very close to a 5000lbs limit. Then remember the 5000lbs applies only if there is 1 person and zero gear in the tow vehicle. Add in 300-500lbs of misc gear or people and you can be right at or over the towing limit. The extra 1500lbs gives you margin to play with and can safe your butt one day.
Anything less will not get job done very well.

Note that I did not say a V8 or full size pick-up as there are other options.

FilthyF14

called a couple trailer stores and confirmed an open steel trailer closer to 2000-2200#. They claim aluminum only saves about 400-500# (enough balance to cover the beer cooler....). Have seen different specs for the Durango 4.7L, with 300 ft lbs or torque, but still no more than 5000#.
Thanks for the advice but will be thinking about a bigger truck if I go the trailer way. Car is an E36 M3 - not the Boxster S - so I can haul the track tires, jack, tools and clothes inside the car.

Bill Verburg

My open Traiilex weighs 885#, car weighs 2885# wet, I bought a V8 4 Runner SE w/ factory tow kit & bigger front rotors, it's rated for 7k# and tows great. A little longer wheelbase is the only thing that would sometimes be desirable.

kush07

Let me guess. They don't sell aluminum trailers. Careful what a salesman "claims."

http://trailex.com/CT-8045.cfm

New rig, different trailer, your call. Just make sure you're getting the straight dope.

CWhaley

Featherlight, Triton and others will hit the 1200 to 1400 lb mark with a full deck in aluminum.

Trailex with an open bed will be (as others stated) under the 1000 lb mark.

KS-CS

In addition to the weight advantage, if you have to store your trailer in the open (weather), an aluminum trailer will require less "rust maintenance" than a a steel trailer. I have spent a couple of my Saturday nights at the track sanding and repainting parts of my steel trailer that are starting to rust.

Z-man

Good points here.

Always have a decent buffer between the tow ratings and the actual weight you are pulling and loading your car with.

-Z

TheOtherEric

They're full of crap. RandR aluminum full-bed trailers weigh 1100 lbs IIRC (see their website). I haul our M3 on an RandR aluminum trailer with a Trailex tirerack with a Chevy Tahoe (capacity 7,000 lbs) and having the extra margin is really nice. Always allow yourself at least 20% towing capacity margin.

Jim Child

I tow a 16 foot open steel trailer with a full deck. It weighs in at 1,900 lbs.

With a 3,100 lb car and associated gear I wouldn't want to tow it with anything less than a full size pickup.

My first pickup was a 1997 F150 with the 4.6 V8. IIRC it was rated at 290 ft/lbs torque. Even with a towing capacity of 7,000 lbs. it was just barely adequate for towing through the hills in West Virginia on the way to VIR and CMP.

My current truck has a 5.4 V8 with 365 ft/lbs and it makes a huge difference - smooth sailing everywhere the old pickup struggled.

CAM14

Keep in mind that the most dangerous part of racing/track days is the tow to and from the track. The more capacity, the better off you will be. What one thinks they need can be somewhat subjective and comfort items usually adds weight which reduces towing capacity.

Not to contradict myself, but if you live in a flat area and will limit your towing to the flat parts of the country, then you can get away will less capacity. But if you will be going through hilly or mountain ranges, then you will need more capacity and in general, better equipment. I live in a very flat area and rarely have to deal with anything greater that a few rolling hills and have safely towed an open trailer with a light car for the past 8 years with a 3.3 liter Nissan Pathfinder. I think it is rated at 175 ft lbs torque. I think one the reasons the Pathfinder has done OK for towing is that it has a 5 s/p manual trans. I once towed a 3.3K lbs car in my trailer and the extra 1K lb made a huge difference, even in flat South Texas. My personal wish list for a tow vehicle would include a wheel base around 108 or more inches, rear suspension designed to carry more tongue weight, around 300 or more ft lbs Torque (smaller diesel would be nice but limited US choices), SUV style back to carry stuff and keep it locked up and dry, manual transmission, dead nuts reliable, greater than 20 MPG. I’m thinking about building my own Frankenstein Jeep Wangoneer with a diesel (Mercedes-Benz OM642) and 6 s/p manual trans.