todera

Just thought this would be the best thread to put this as I am in the process of installing the Spec 996 JRZ suspension and had a few questions. I am using my stock upper strut mounts for now so that might be a bit different than most here. Looking at the strut PET diagram do I use the #2 washer with the JRZ shocks? If I do I can't get both the locknuts on with the adjuster at the top of the strut. In the end I suppose I am thinking I should just break down and get some monoball upper mounts. Also what bump stops are everyone using?

mglobe

Good find Tim. The Aero kit makes that a great candidate. The GT3 (Aero) nose is in the spec, as the taco wing, although you could sell that easily and upgrade to the true spec wing for not much money.

mglobe

Some eye-candy for the thread. Taken this past weekend at TWS.

DHinkle

Hey guys, I have an OEM 996 GT3 Rear Wing that I will sell. Perfect for the 996 Spec Class Build. PM me if interested.

onefastviking

You absolutely MUST use the #2 washer or it will break things.

coinboy

I have always used the stock Porsche drilled rotors and get the cracks like everyone does. I had a bad crack in one front rotor at the Hallett Club Race and had to change to a used spare one I had in my trailer. My question here is what does everyone here use and where is the best place to buy them? The black SP996 came with some nice dba slotted rotors that I think I will try unless someone knows of something better. Here is what I found:
dba Slotted Rotors www.ajusa.com Front Left: DBA42394SL Front Right: DBA42394SR

I guess I still plan on using the stock drilled rear rotors.

PS: I am running the Performance Friction 01 brake pads.
Front: 0776.01.17.44 Rear: 0738.01.16.44

mglobe

I tried a set of DBA rotors. They ended up crazed in a manner similar to how the stock rotors crack. I felt like I didn't get any additional longevity out of them, so I switched back to stock.

Veloce Raptor

FWIW.....I am generally not a big fan of drilled/perforated rotors for heavy track work. I am a big fan of PFC01's and even moreso PFC06's.









Professional Racing and Driving Coach

CWhaley

I as Mike have tried "other types" of rotors and do not feel that for the money they are any better.
As I get the OEM rotors at a wholesale price, I am sticking with them. My pad of choice is the RS29 front / RS14 rears (as we sell them it works out on the cost issue...)

coinboy

Can you tell me the difference between PF 01 and 06 pads?
Only thing I have heard is that the 01 is a sprint pad and the 06 is an enduro type pad.
I have no idea what that means or why I should use one over the other...

utkinpol

do you use rs29 with or without dampers?

my set of front rs29 screeches like crazy, I hope may be with new rotors it will be subdued but frankly not sure how to remedy that. just looking for any ideas on how to limit this problem, i do settle pads properly after getting to 100mph and doing 3-5 hard stops, pads have all edges sanded at 45 degrees angle, so, not sure what else can be done.

Veloce Raptor

Im my experience of using 01's for many years, and now 06's for the last ~2 years: the 06 is just as good as the 01, and modulates just as well, but lasts ~50% longer and is much more benign on rotors. The 01 may have a tiny bit more initial bite, but to me this isn't really a + or -, since too much initial bite can reduce the stability of the car as the suspensiion loads too much up front. But they both modulate & release beautifully IMO, and like all PFC race pads, they require no bedding.








Professional Racing and Driving Coach

CWhaley

I do not use dampers... and do not seem to get any extreme screeching out of them... They do make some when cold... on track they are silent...

TRT41

I have been running R29's without the dampers, never had a problem with noise, but they do crack/chunk once past about 3/4 wear.
I have a set of PF 06's to compare vs the R29s, will test at ECR in Jan or Feb.

CWhaley

We have heard of people have them crack/chunk at that stage... never experienced it personally