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Old 09-29-2010, 09:15 AM
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Chaos
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Great !
Old 09-29-2010, 10:53 AM
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Very nice. love the barn style also. Shouldn't the dry walls go in before you start setting up all the cabinets?
Old 09-30-2010, 08:41 AM
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38D
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Originally Posted by MLIN
Very nice. love the barn style also. Shouldn't the dry walls go in before you start setting up all the cabinets?
It would make it easier, but that's not happening until next year.
Old 09-26-2011, 09:26 PM
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Colin,
I know I'm reviving an old thread, but how has the Mohawk lift worked for you over the last year? I am in the final planning for a garage and am planing to use the same Mohawk lift, just looking for a little real world feedback.

BTW: how high are your ceiling to clear the hydraulic lines? did you ever consider the Mohawk version that runs the hydraulic line under the concrete to connect the two posts?

Last question, I was going to post my basic floor plans on RL to make sure I didn't miss anything obvious. Do you think the "racing/ DE" is the best place to post?

Thanks for any help,
Matt
Old 09-26-2011, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CoGT3
Colin,
I know I'm reviving an old thread, but how has the Mohawk lift worked for you over the last year? I am in the final planning for a garage and am planing to use the same Mohawk lift, just looking for a little real world feedback.

BTW: how high are your ceiling to clear the hydraulic lines? did you ever consider the Mohawk version that runs the hydraulic line under the concrete to connect the two posts?

Last question, I was going to post my basic floor plans on RL to make sure I didn't miss anything obvious. Do you think the "racing/ DE" is the best place to post?

Thanks for any help,
Matt
I'm not Colin, but I will say that I love my Mohawk lift. It has been great for the 10 years I've had it.
Old 09-27-2011, 08:33 AM
  #51  
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Yes, I love the Mohawk and would highly recommend one. My ceiling is ~20' at the peak, so way higher than the lines need to be. I didn't put the lines in the slab since there was no reason to do so. I'm also not sure what it buys you to put the lines in the slab.

I'm also a big fan of the VCT flooring I put in. It's durable and the polish can be stripped & refinished each year (just did this a few weeks ago and it looks new again).

And sure, fire the plans up here...would love to see them.
Old 09-28-2011, 11:27 PM
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I really appreciate the input.

So here is the deal. We are working on plans for a new home which will include a detached garage. The main house has garage space for daily drivers, the extra garage is totally play space for myself and father in law. The structural plans are nearly complete, so i am looking for any obvious gaffs in structural design. The garage backs up to the property line and everything in plans behind the garage doors will be paved up to the line.

I have not worked out any inside plans for the garage other than making sure it would accommodate a two post lift. I am not looking for car storage initially, and any floor that will support the two post lift should allow installation of four post storage lifts at a latter time. The ceiling height is 11'6", but could be done in a cathedral fashion at a cost. That was my interest in the hydraulic lines in the concrete to save on overhead space. The roof lines are a low pitch to match the architecture of the main house. I also live in coastal Florida, so hurricane codes enter into roofing design options.

I attached a picture of the floor plans, the site plan, and a 3D model picture.

Two more questions about the Mohawk A7, how much clearance do you have under the car when it is lifted to maximum height? and can you get the lift arms under your track cars without using blocks under the wheels?

Again, thanks ahead for any input.
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:38 AM
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Judging from the scale of the 20' dimension line, you are about 15-16' from the property line to the door of the garage. Is the property line the centerline of the street or alley? you need at least 24' drive to get the car in and out, that is the standard parking lot drive lane. Looks a little cramped if there is a wall or another house along that property line. Also make sure that you coordinate your garage doors, if they are coiling you'll be ok, but if they are traditional "up and over" doors, they will roll back right into the area you need for the lift and effectively eliminate the benefit of the additional height of the garage, not a happy "oh ****" moment.
Old 09-29-2011, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by J richard
Judging from the scale of the 20' dimension line, you are about 15-16' from the property line to the door of the garage. Is the property line the centerline of the street or alley? you need at least 24' drive to get the car in and out, that is the standard parking lot drive lane. Looks a little cramped if there is a wall or another house along that property line. Also make sure that you coordinate your garage doors, if they are coiling you'll be ok, but if they are traditional "up and over" doors, they will roll back right into the area you need for the lift and effectively eliminate the benefit of the additional height of the garage, not a happy "oh ****" moment.
You are right about the distance to the property line, it is 15 ft at the corner of the garage. The property line runs up to state preserve land, so no worries about future buildings. The property line will have a retention wall though, about a foot high on the driveway side. I am trying to shift the garage and house over to get a little more room as you point out.

In reality, that last garage next to the bathroom will likely be work space, not car storage. I suspect I will leave the first garage slot open to the back wall in case I buy a trailer in the future. Use the second for car storage, the third for the 2 post lift, and leave the forth open as workbench/extra room around he lift.



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