Trailex Lights - Question
#1
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I have a 3 year old Trailes open trailer and hadn't noticed this before, so am not sure if it is a problem or I had just overlooked it in the past:
When the car is off and all lightes are off, there are a small few lights on the trailex that remain on, but dim. What am I missing or is this typical?
Thanks,
Skip
When the car is off and all lightes are off, there are a small few lights on the trailex that remain on, but dim. What am I missing or is this typical?
Thanks,
Skip
#2
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That is not supposed to happen sounds like a wire is shorting some place. I will tell you this I have a trailex that was new two years ago and the wiring is crap. I had to rewire it this summer. A friend bought one last fall and this spring we went to down to Roebling road from Ohio Wires were trash be the time we got back Re wire it and start over.
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It sounds to me that the problem is with the wiring in your tow vehicle and not your trailer. By the way, my Trailex is 10 years old and I can't remember ever having any electrical problems.
#4
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Skip, my Trailex is 15 years old, and the wiring has been just fine. Prices on marker lights . . . not so good (i.e. overpriced, rip-off. Same item can be found at Pep Boys for $2.50 versus the $8.00 you pay at Trailex).
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Your experience with the wiring may be do to its age meaning they don't make them the way they used to. I took this up with Carl at Trailex who said they are going to change the process but on my trailer they used a barrel connectors to join the wires and as soon as the elements hit them they destructed . SO I just rewired with a soldering gun which fixed it.
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sorry to hijack, but my problem is pretty simple, and Im sure I could hunt it down, but thought I would ask here. my brake lights work, so do blinkers, but when I turn on the headlights, the trailer lights dont go on. brake lights and turns still work. its the stock chevy round plug , and this happened on another trailer that is known to work. chevy wired it incorrectly? where to start?
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#8
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Your experience with the wiring may be do to its age meaning they don't make them the way they used to. I took this up with Carl at Trailex who said they are going to change the process but on my trailer they used a barrel connectors to join the wires and as soon as the elements hit them they destructed . SO I just rewired with a soldering gun which fixed it.
I've had to rewire the damn thing one piece at a time as it failed. Really poor quality.
#9
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Looks like I may have some wiring issues in the near future, since my Trailex was made three years ago.![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Did you guys replace all the wiring or just solder/splice the connectors?
What kind of wiring did you use?
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Did you guys replace all the wiring or just solder/splice the connectors?
What kind of wiring did you use?
#10
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I did not replace all the wiring just spliced in a new connection between the wire and the lights to each side of the trailer, had to redo the wires going to the ground coming off the pig tail and the wires going to the battery box. I did this over the weekend before the next event. The wire they use is vary thin so at some point I would re wire the trailer with like 16 ga. wire, as a winter project.
#12
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Welcome to Trailers 101;
Get yourself a 25' 12g contractor grade extension cord and a nice bag of red/yellow LED marker/tail lamps. WalMart has the cheapest lamps, and they may also have a good cord too. Cut and strip the ends and run the cord from your pigtail back to the tail lamps and use that large gauge wire for as much as is practical. Solder and shrink sleeve all connections, preferably with adhesive sleeve to seal the joints water tight. Bolt your ground to the frame with a large sheet metal screw and silicone it over to keep it dry and clean. End of trailer problems.
Be prepared to also rewire the tow vehicle. As much as you think a modern truck should have sufficient wiring, THEY DO NOT! I have rewired my entire rig (Super Duty Ford and '07 Pace trailer) with 12g wire and now my lights are bullet proof. The trailer lights are on a separate run of wires tapped in very near the fuse block going back to the trailer plug only. The original wire was too small a gauge to fire the lamps properly. I'm now firing 8 filament style marker lamps and a full 8 LED tail lamps. End of truck problem.
No splicing, no half measures, just do it all over again, everything new, JUST like I said to. Do you need to ask me how I know all this?
Get yourself a 25' 12g contractor grade extension cord and a nice bag of red/yellow LED marker/tail lamps. WalMart has the cheapest lamps, and they may also have a good cord too. Cut and strip the ends and run the cord from your pigtail back to the tail lamps and use that large gauge wire for as much as is practical. Solder and shrink sleeve all connections, preferably with adhesive sleeve to seal the joints water tight. Bolt your ground to the frame with a large sheet metal screw and silicone it over to keep it dry and clean. End of trailer problems.
Be prepared to also rewire the tow vehicle. As much as you think a modern truck should have sufficient wiring, THEY DO NOT! I have rewired my entire rig (Super Duty Ford and '07 Pace trailer) with 12g wire and now my lights are bullet proof. The trailer lights are on a separate run of wires tapped in very near the fuse block going back to the trailer plug only. The original wire was too small a gauge to fire the lamps properly. I'm now firing 8 filament style marker lamps and a full 8 LED tail lamps. End of truck problem.
No splicing, no half measures, just do it all over again, everything new, JUST like I said to. Do you need to ask me how I know all this?
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