Spec Boxster build cost?
07-14-2010, 12:56 PM
#62
Rennlist Member
07-14-2010, 01:06 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
that is exactly what i was curious about - is market of used 2.5L engines really that big so it is cheap enough to get a new engine instead and skip any repairs?
07-14-2010, 01:11 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
07-14-2010, 01:20 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
Suggest you read here if you want to invest a moderate amount of money to either solve or significantly reduce the risk of IMS catastrophe:
http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html
07-14-2010, 01:28 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
Per Gary's post, 2.5 liter engines are cheap. The early Chicksters have plummeted in value and the IMS issue is a big question mark with any used motor. Hence.... cheap.
Suggest you read here if you want to invest a moderate amount of money to either solve or significantly reduce the risk of IMS catastrophe:
http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html
Suggest you read here if you want to invest a moderate amount of money to either solve or significantly reduce the risk of IMS catastrophe:
http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html
yes, i am aware of that fix, i looked it up earlier, it is same for older m96 engines and my m9605 already has single row bearing.
07-14-2010, 02:32 PM
#72
Rennlist Member
Cheapest unknown mileage 2.5 motor I know of went for $1.5k Can.
07-14-2010, 02:46 PM
#73
I'm in the middle of build now as well.
From my reading, it seems there are guys that got a car and go run at the lower cost numbers of 15k if you do the work yourself. Not all home diy'ers are created equal, some are good, some are not so.
If you want a top quality car built by a top quality shop, $50k is not unheard of. I would charge about that to duplicate my car. I've done all the work on my car and it still has cost me $20k so far, with another 5-10 to go.
Being competitive has a lot to do with your competition, and your idea of competitive. For some, competitive is top 5, top 10 even, I like to win.
From my reading, it seems there are guys that got a car and go run at the lower cost numbers of 15k if you do the work yourself. Not all home diy'ers are created equal, some are good, some are not so.
If you want a top quality car built by a top quality shop, $50k is not unheard of. I would charge about that to duplicate my car. I've done all the work on my car and it still has cost me $20k so far, with another 5-10 to go.
Being competitive has a lot to do with your competition, and your idea of competitive. For some, competitive is top 5, top 10 even, I like to win.
07-14-2010, 03:09 PM
#74
Drifting
If you build it yourself expect mid $20k. We did a garage build in late 2006 with a 11k donor and I was up to about $22k for the first two seasons.
Bill P has been an inspiration to all of us here in Nor Cal. He has parties where we prep a car. From a donor to race ready in a weekend (sans Cage). Tony C of TC Designs has done most of our cages and he charges a fair price for an *outstanding* cage.
In three years of running I have had to replace a tranny and an AOS. Thats it. Tranny was $800.
Most of the work that we have done over time is develop the platform and that takes seat time, and attention to detail/data. We am still not where we want to be honestly, but getting there. Sure you can dump $ at it just like anything else, but it's not required.
I think the rules are fairly well written and make it such that you can home build a car and still be competitive. At least in Nor Cal this is true, not so sure with the POC folks or East Coast. We have had some hot shoes come into the fray that have had professionally prepped cars as well as some who home built and still on the podium. It's fun because in any weekend it could be any of the cars at the front. It's that close most of the time. If you build it at Bills house you can run up front, you don't need to drop a gazillion dollars on a professionally prepped car unless you *want to*.
If you have a shop do it then who knows on total costs, it depends on the shops experience and what you can negotiate with them.
This year I think the vote is to go square and run 255's in the front. Hopefully we will go to RA1's with this move. For me, I never bought into the square argument, but if it means we can run RA1's then I will do just about anything. R888's are the suck. I am holding back ranting about 255's in front cause thats a whole separate thread.
In the last couple years we started using the car for both racing and R&D of data systems for higher level classes and pro series we support, so the cost has gone up substantially. But that is unique to our business obviously and not part of what most people do.
I agree that a proper data system is key to developing the platform and I can't imagine having a pro coach or being serious about developing the car/platform w/o it. But hey, I am clearly biased in that regard.
Awesome platform, awesome fun.
Bill P has been an inspiration to all of us here in Nor Cal. He has parties where we prep a car. From a donor to race ready in a weekend (sans Cage). Tony C of TC Designs has done most of our cages and he charges a fair price for an *outstanding* cage.
In three years of running I have had to replace a tranny and an AOS. Thats it. Tranny was $800.
Most of the work that we have done over time is develop the platform and that takes seat time, and attention to detail/data. We am still not where we want to be honestly, but getting there. Sure you can dump $ at it just like anything else, but it's not required.
I think the rules are fairly well written and make it such that you can home build a car and still be competitive. At least in Nor Cal this is true, not so sure with the POC folks or East Coast. We have had some hot shoes come into the fray that have had professionally prepped cars as well as some who home built and still on the podium. It's fun because in any weekend it could be any of the cars at the front. It's that close most of the time. If you build it at Bills house you can run up front, you don't need to drop a gazillion dollars on a professionally prepped car unless you *want to*.
If you have a shop do it then who knows on total costs, it depends on the shops experience and what you can negotiate with them.
This year I think the vote is to go square and run 255's in the front. Hopefully we will go to RA1's with this move. For me, I never bought into the square argument, but if it means we can run RA1's then I will do just about anything. R888's are the suck. I am holding back ranting about 255's in front cause thats a whole separate thread.
In the last couple years we started using the car for both racing and R&D of data systems for higher level classes and pro series we support, so the cost has gone up substantially. But that is unique to our business obviously and not part of what most people do.
I agree that a proper data system is key to developing the platform and I can't imagine having a pro coach or being serious about developing the car/platform w/o it. But hey, I am clearly biased in that regard.
Awesome platform, awesome fun.
07-15-2010, 01:04 AM
#75
Greg, I am at the tail end of my SPB build and I did all of the work myself except for the Cage and the exhaust set up. While I am not sure why anyone would really want to know exactly what they spent on a ground up build, I admire the guts that it would take to stare @ that number. I, for one, enjoy NOT knowing. I can say that if the class is not currently producing large #s in your area than I would not bother building a "to the max" car, after all what is the point if you are going out and killing 3 cars on a weekend. After only running in spec classes over the past 12 years of racing, I can promise you that there are many areas of legal performance out there that folks have yet to even start with. It will get there in time, but it seems for now that the class is able to support the idea of a home built car with a untouched street motor as a front runner. If the class puts a few simple rules into place for next year, I believe that the class will continue to grow nationally as well and slow the slippery slope that all "spec" classes run through. Depending on the condition of your donor, you may be able to make improvements over time instead of dumping it all in one shot, plus you are able to hunt for parts in all of the normal bargain spots ( I have gotten some of my stuff used or as "getting out of racing" blowouts to help keep the costs down over time. Plus, if you go for a car that has had some love showed to it you will be able to recover some costs when you dump all of the street/stock stuff to the large boxster/996 crowd. I got back around 2 grand on my car.