Seeking advice on right mods for serious 996tt - not for track, but not for street
#1
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Ok, here's the scenario: want to build (or buy) a very fast 996tt NOT for track use, but not for daily driving or street racing. (see also the WTB 996tt thread in the 996tt forum!)
Now, the intent is for a sanctioned racing event, but on closed public roads - with all the inherent compromises, like curbs and potholes and camber. Oh, and quite possibly heavy rain. And the car needs to be dead solid bullet-proof, so not looking to push the envelope on, say horsepower.
1. What's the best way to get a reliable, reasonable ~500hp? Again, 550hp or 600hp is useless if the car will break.
2. Will have a full cage, racing seats and harnesses. Some interior bits will be stripped, and weight extracted where possible, and no stereo (though we'll keep the a/c). What about the exterior? Would like additional downforce, but will rip off any front splitters, etc.
3. Better fluid and pads, more ducting... do we really need bigger rotors/calipers? NOT at a track, so it's not 10/10ths, but we will be going pretty quickly.
4. SUSPENSION. This is the key, I think. Need to cover everything from fast sweepers to surprise Dukes of Hazzard scenarios. And needs to be RELIABLE; willing to sacrifice ultimate cornering for no failures. So what needs to be changed from stock?
5. Will plan on keeping 18" wheels, and want as big a sidewall profile as possible, to avoid destroying rims in case of aforementioned Dukes scenarios. Stick with stock wheels? Rubber recommendations? Remember, need to be ready for cool, wet conditions too.
Any and all suggestions welcomed!
vty,
--Dennis
Now, the intent is for a sanctioned racing event, but on closed public roads - with all the inherent compromises, like curbs and potholes and camber. Oh, and quite possibly heavy rain. And the car needs to be dead solid bullet-proof, so not looking to push the envelope on, say horsepower.
1. What's the best way to get a reliable, reasonable ~500hp? Again, 550hp or 600hp is useless if the car will break.
2. Will have a full cage, racing seats and harnesses. Some interior bits will be stripped, and weight extracted where possible, and no stereo (though we'll keep the a/c). What about the exterior? Would like additional downforce, but will rip off any front splitters, etc.
3. Better fluid and pads, more ducting... do we really need bigger rotors/calipers? NOT at a track, so it's not 10/10ths, but we will be going pretty quickly.
4. SUSPENSION. This is the key, I think. Need to cover everything from fast sweepers to surprise Dukes of Hazzard scenarios. And needs to be RELIABLE; willing to sacrifice ultimate cornering for no failures. So what needs to be changed from stock?
5. Will plan on keeping 18" wheels, and want as big a sidewall profile as possible, to avoid destroying rims in case of aforementioned Dukes scenarios. Stick with stock wheels? Rubber recommendations? Remember, need to be ready for cool, wet conditions too.
Any and all suggestions welcomed!
vty,
--Dennis
#2
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So, basically you're building a rally car, right?
1. TTs use the GT1 block, just like the GT3. It's a pretty bullet proof engine. I say just go with a power kit from any proven tuner. Here's a good (& very popular) example: http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=33
2. More downforce? I say GT2 bumper & cup rear wing would be your best bet. You could probably add canards on the sides of the front bumper. If you're afraid of tearing up front splitters, you could be kind of ghetto & make a custom rubber (flexible when hit) spoiler. Look at the Rauh Welt cars for reference:
![](http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/Dino%20Dalle%20Carbonare/NOVEMBER2009/RauhWelt-ND/RWND-049.jpg)
3. Personally I use Motul RBF660, but everyone has their preference. Castrol SRF, Motul, Redline, they're all good. As for pads, I'm not too hardcore, I just use the OEM sport pads, but someone more experienced will chime in I'm sure... Do you need bigger rotors/calipers? Well, only you can answer that. It has less to do with the car/track & more to do with the driver. When you need them, you'll know.
4. Suspension... For a rally car, I have no idea. I think Bilstein has some options for rally type struts. For track the most popular amongst race nuts are Moton & JRZ.
5. If you're really going to be Duking it, get 17" wheels.
1. TTs use the GT1 block, just like the GT3. It's a pretty bullet proof engine. I say just go with a power kit from any proven tuner. Here's a good (& very popular) example: http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=33
2. More downforce? I say GT2 bumper & cup rear wing would be your best bet. You could probably add canards on the sides of the front bumper. If you're afraid of tearing up front splitters, you could be kind of ghetto & make a custom rubber (flexible when hit) spoiler. Look at the Rauh Welt cars for reference:
![](http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/Dino%20Dalle%20Carbonare/NOVEMBER2009/RauhWelt-ND/RWND-049.jpg)
3. Personally I use Motul RBF660, but everyone has their preference. Castrol SRF, Motul, Redline, they're all good. As for pads, I'm not too hardcore, I just use the OEM sport pads, but someone more experienced will chime in I'm sure... Do you need bigger rotors/calipers? Well, only you can answer that. It has less to do with the car/track & more to do with the driver. When you need them, you'll know.
4. Suspension... For a rally car, I have no idea. I think Bilstein has some options for rally type struts. For track the most popular amongst race nuts are Moton & JRZ.
5. If you're really going to be Duking it, get 17" wheels.
#3
Race Director
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Do a search for tkerrmd, he has a 996tt that through the years had modded more than anyone here for street and track use and then ultimatly turned the car into a race car only.
#5
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You are basically running a closed course time trial. You will need brakes, you will need suspension.
The fixation with a HP target seems pointless since in the end your time will be penalized/adjusted based on your HP/Weight index. Same as PAX in SCCA Autox, how else will a competitor in say a Spec Miata be compared to a Ferrari Challenge car. Your raw time gets adjusted by some fixed performance index modifier.
The fixation with a HP target seems pointless since in the end your time will be penalized/adjusted based on your HP/Weight index. Same as PAX in SCCA Autox, how else will a competitor in say a Spec Miata be compared to a Ferrari Challenge car. Your raw time gets adjusted by some fixed performance index modifier.
#6
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hah! Howdy, Ken. No, not the Robin Hood Rally. If it actually came to fruition, I'd do it, if only for ***** and giggles, but I very much doubt that.
See this and this:
http://www.nbcconnecticut.com/statio..._Hartford.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...ood-rally.html
Vty,
--Dennis
See this and this:
http://www.nbcconnecticut.com/statio..._Hartford.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...ood-rally.html
Vty,
--Dennis
#7
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You are basically running a closed course time trial. You will need brakes, you will need suspension.
The fixation with a HP target seems pointless since in the end your time will be penalized/adjusted based on your HP/Weight index. Same as PAX in SCCA Autox, how else will a competitor in say a Spec Miata be compared to a Ferrari Challenge car. Your raw time gets adjusted by some fixed performance index modifier.
The fixation with a HP target seems pointless since in the end your time will be penalized/adjusted based on your HP/Weight index. Same as PAX in SCCA Autox, how else will a competitor in say a Spec Miata be compared to a Ferrari Challenge car. Your raw time gets adjusted by some fixed performance index modifier.
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vty,
--Dennis
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#13
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I know the HP potential. But my comments were under the premise for the Robin Hood Rally....
HP is pretty easy on the 996TT platform relative to a non turbo platform. But still the biggest improvements in laptimes come from Driver and Handling.
Definitely shed some pound on the car and get serious with the suspension. The HP is the easy part on that car.
HP is pretty easy on the 996TT platform relative to a non turbo platform. But still the biggest improvements in laptimes come from Driver and Handling.
Definitely shed some pound on the car and get serious with the suspension. The HP is the easy part on that car.
Agree with the need on suspension, Paul, but there is much more room for HP play than what you're thinking.
That's why I'd rather stick with something less hand-grenade, and focus more on durability, suspension and the two wingnuts behind the wheel. Thanks!
vty,
--Dennis
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vty,
--Dennis
#14
Drifting
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I was just at RUF in Dallas. They had a 996 GT2 for a reasonable $$ IIRC ~$75. They were talking about robust mods totaling under $10K that put it near 600hp. Nice lighter proven platform to start with. BTW the car only had 12K on it.